Bushes - forgive my ignorance on these

[pureguava]

Bushes.  The ones in the suspension. Not those seen in the garden or in magazines in bushes in the 80s......

I have just removed them all.   The ones in the front lower wishbone were well and truly seized in there ( metal part of bushing had welded itself to the bolt) so very very much fun to remove.......   and it got me thinking ——as  the bushing does not spin on the bolt ( and I guess that’s why they are bushings and not bearings this allows them to weld themselves into the bolt. 
 

I was going to put anti seize grease on the  bolt incase I have to come back - is this actually a good idea? Will it encourage slippage of the bolt ? Or will the torque of the nut be enough to mitigate this ? 

[andydclements]

Anti-seize should be fine, but how often do you expect to undo them? If it's frequent then I'd hope that the bolt doesn't rust itself to the inside of the sleeve, if it's many years again before then I'd say don't expect the anti-seize to do a lot.

[Barrykearley]

You should be tightening these bushes at ride height. The metal sleeves are held on place and the bushes rubbery bit provides the twist required. When inserting these bushes a water based lube should be used that disappears over a short time. Cooper slip is useful on the studs to aid removal next time.

they are super easy to remove with the body off 🤭

[ragingfool35]

i put grease on the bolts/studs at assembly and clean the threads prior to installing the nuts

 

[Jacques]

I did as Chris did, and also remember to have the lower suspension damper bolt/nut to lower wishbone arm loose too. Two up, half tank, and then tighten. I loosen all the related bolts both front and rear, as I find that ride height, and thereby camber, toe and castor changes ever so slightly, if only setting one end.

I also cleaned up the steering rod thread, possibly with a refresh cutter (I had to cut those two nuts). Reason for doing so is, that once fiddleing with bushes, I had to readjust the steering ball joints on their thread as a consequence. Might want to do that while there's sufficient room to better do the job, before total reassembly and making the alignment/geo.

May I ask what your shims and possibly shimplates were when you took it apart?

Kind regards,

jacques

[pureguava]

Hi

 

thanks for all the advice 

Jacques -
 

Upper shims in front of upper ball joint was 7.5mm ( 2 x 3mm and 1 x 1.5mm) 

rear was 6 mm ( 2 x 3mm) 

the plates were both 10.5mm with the notch hard against the outboard side 

I hope this helps - will let you know if this changes after doing the new geometry 

Al 

 

[sailorbob]

It should change because you have an incorrect number of castor shim washers and plates. See this thread

 

[pureguava]

Sailorbob - thanks for reply and forgive my late night post relying on memory! - you were correct - I went back through the pictures I took and I have made a mistake :

Infront shims were 7.5mm ( 3 x 2 and a 1.5mm ) 
Rear shims were 4.5mm ( 3mm and a 1.5mm) 

Total 12mm for castor shims 

The castor washers will b measured - should add to 9mm correct?

with the 10.5mm I was talking about the  Camber plates. 

Sounds correct ? 
 

 

Edited April 24, 2020 by pureguava
More info

[sailorbob]

The castor shim washers are situated inboard between the top wishbone arms and chassis and should be a combined thickness of 9 mm.

The castor shim plates are situated between the top wishbone arms and ball joint and should be a combined thickness of 12 mm.

[pureguava]

Excellent thanks !  
 

so this is my setup 

Stud: 

6mm front washer

3mm rear washer 

top ball joint

7.5mm shims front 

4.5mm shims rear 

As you say 12 and 9mm total.  
Thanks so much Sailorbob 

Last question - the snubber washers seem not a “mirror image” as I would expect on the layout picture. In the front it’s snubber washer against bushing .... in the rear it’s the castor washer against the bushing - is this correct ? 

[sailorbob]

The snubber washers should be fitted either side of the the top wishbone arm bushes.