LotusFella Posted June 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2020 (edited) Thx. anyone have any words of wisdom on the best way to change it. As it looks very tight and awkward? Edited June 20, 2020 by Bravo73 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruss Posted June 20, 2020 Report Share Posted June 20, 2020 On 19/06/2020 at 21:36, LotusFella said: Thx. anyone have any words of wisdom on the best way to change it. As it looks very tight and awkward? WARNING Do not attempt to bleed the clutch hydraulic system when the catalytic converter is hot - spilled hydraulic fluid could initiate a fire. Wait until the engine and converter is cool to the touch. To replace the slave cylinder To remove: Remove the rear undertray (see sub-section a - introduction for details). - - - From underneath the vehicle, disconnect the clutch pipe union and immediately seal the open end of the - pipe and the cylinder port. Release the two fixing bolts and withdraw the cylinder. - - Take all necessary precautions to guard against contamination of painted surfaces with brake fluid. - - To refit/replace: Is the reversal of removal. - - Refit the the two M8 bolts securing the slave cylinder to the bell housing, torque to 12 Nm. - - Re-connect the clutch pipe union to the cylinder, torque to 15 Nm.- - Bleed the system of air, tightening the bleed nipple to 5 Nm.- - Finally, ensure that the heat shield is returned to its original shape in order adequately to protect the slave - - cylinder and hydraulic line. Hydraulic Pipe A 2-part rigid steel pipe is used to convey the hydraulic fluid from the master cylinder to the left hand front corner of the engine bay. The pipe is routed down the LH 'A' post to run along the outside of the chassis LH main siderail, within the composite sill member, and is supported, together with other pipes and hoses in foam blocks. Another pipe is used to connect the rear end of the chassis pipe to an NVH clutch damper mounted on the transmission. A short rigid pipe then connects the damper to the slave cylinder. The clutch damper was introduced as a running change and contains a flexible diaphragm to damp out pressure pulsations in the line caused by frequencies generated by crankshaft that are isolated from rest of chassis via engine mounts etc, but when the clutch pedal depressed the frequency travels through the clutch cover, release bearing, slave cylinder and through the fluid line up to the clutch pedal. These pulsations give the symptoms of a ‘roaring’ noise and vibration which can be felt through the clutch pedal when it is depressed at high revs, typically 5000 rpm. ‘12 MY vehicles from VIN CH_10179 have been fitted with additional protective heat wrapping positioned around the clutch slave cylinder pipe to provide insulation from potential excessive engine bay temperatures. The brake fluid contained within the clutch pipe may exceed its maximum working temperature especially if the vehicle is subjected to either extreme ambient temperatures and/or regular continuous high speed driving. Vehicles subjected to these conditions have experienced difficultly in engaging or changing gear combined with other symptoms such as very little or no resistance required to depress the clutch pedal or the clutch pedal has failing to return to its original position when released, Also see Technical Service Bulletin TSB 2011/29 for further details. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LotusFella Posted June 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2020 Excellent thx. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LotusFella Posted June 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2020 Any tips on how to get the clutch fork depressed enough to get slave back on? Bloody PITA job. thx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agentdr8 Posted June 26, 2020 Report Share Posted June 26, 2020 If the slave isn't connected to the hydraulic line yet, you can push the pin into the body. If it is connected, you could also open the bleeder and lose some fluid while pushing the pin back in. Also, I wanted to mention that one of the members over here recently swapped in the CRT-085 release cylinder, and noted that the pedal pressure was increased, likely due to a smaller diameter bore. Upon more researching, it seems the Toyota Avensis that also used the BG6 transmissions call for the Aisin CRT-087 as a replacement part, which looks exactly like the 085 part externally, but there's a good chance the bore is slightly increased (20.55mm on the 085, probably closer to ~22mm on the 087 I'm guessing). Of course the Avensis wasn't sold here in the States, so in order to thoroughly put this replacement part hunt to bed, I've ordered one from Latvia and will compare the OE one to the 087 part once it arrives. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LotusFella Posted June 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2020 Thx line not connect but still difficult to get in enough to be able to get bolts in. Access is so awkward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LotusFella Posted June 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2020 Assume this is not the upgraded heat wrap? Where can I get some from and what’s recommended. thx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LotusFella Posted June 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2020 Okay worst fears realised. Changed the slave also and still will not allow disengagement of gear! When I started it went into reverse fine. Started to reverse engaged clutch and braked to a stop. Will not come out of gear! Finally stalled engine. Then clutch pedal only coming half way up. Foot under to bring back. Then can engage again to put in reverse or first. What could it be? New master cylinder faulty also? I don’t suspect clutch as I can get it into gear and hold clutch in so not moving. It’s just getting it out of gear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruss Posted June 27, 2020 Report Share Posted June 27, 2020 It can only be air in the system somehow. Don't panic! At this stage I'd get it to a Lotus specialist to sort it. From yours I'd give ES motorsports a call. You may have someone nearer but I haven't used anyone in Cambs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mg4lotus Posted June 27, 2020 Report Share Posted June 27, 2020 pedal box issues? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agentdr8 Posted June 27, 2020 Report Share Posted June 27, 2020 Maybe I missed it, but did you change the OE master cylinder for another OE master cylinder, or did you go with one of the aftermarket options? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LotusFella Posted June 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2020 Oe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LotusFella Posted July 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2020 ok could it be the clutch release bearing or the fingers not moving enough to allow it to disengage? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agentdr8 Posted July 1, 2020 Report Share Posted July 1, 2020 The release fork is controlled by the release (slave) cylinder. So if it's not moving much when you press the clutch pedal, then something is weird with the hydraulics. If it's moving an appropriate amount but the clutch isn't disengaging, then it could be a bad clutch cover/pressure plate or clutch disc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LotusFella Posted July 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2020 so if I'm going to replace the clutch, etc do i go OEM or after market? Options of whats good. Engine is standard S variant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Painterdave Posted July 2, 2020 Report Share Posted July 2, 2020 I presume there's not some sort of missing return spring on the clutch pedal The clutch pedal will need to return fully to the top when your bleeding it 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattmahope Posted July 2, 2020 Report Share Posted July 2, 2020 33 minutes ago, LotusFella said: so if I'm going to replace the clutch, etc do i go OEM or after market? Options of whats good. Engine is standard S variant. After much research I have just ordered Xtreme Clutch 1C kit for my Exige. This is the ceramic version that can handle over 900NM (I am currently running around 530NM so should be easily able to cope) but I am told that it retains good road manners/driveability. They also have an organic version (1A) which is closer to OEM but can still handle plenty more abuse than standard. Will report back once mine arrives. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruss Posted July 2, 2020 Report Share Posted July 2, 2020 Do you need to replace the clutch? I'm not convinced from your description that that is the problem. Is it possible to remove the slave cylinder and bleed it while holding it above the level of the master cylinder? or is it possible to jack the car up to allow the slave to sit higher than the master? If you do decide that the clutch needs replacing then I'd look at the evora 400 parts including the flywheel and counter balance arrangement. While all the faff and expense of removing the gearbox is taking place, then the premium on the 400 parts is minimal and will give you a better drive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mg4lotus Posted July 2, 2020 Report Share Posted July 2, 2020 1 hour ago, Painterdave said: I presume there's not some sort of missing return spring on the clutch pedal The clutch pedal will need to return fully to the top when your bleeding it I spotted that bit of information as well, but nobody else seems to be picking up on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattmahope Posted July 2, 2020 Report Share Posted July 2, 2020 Also recommend the 400 clutch. I had that installed on mine a couple of years ago and it has been great. Only just starting to struggle now following installation of my TVS1900 kit, but even so it’s still holding up ok for general driving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LotusFella Posted July 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2020 3 hours ago, mg4lotus said: I spotted that bit of information as well, but nobody else seems to be picking up on it. I don't believe so. I have discovered :- So I drove the car into the garage and could not remove from gear so turned engine off and but did not lift the clutch pedal back up. Then lifted the car to see the slave piston position and the it was all the way in. I think I still have an air lock somewhere in the system. That may account for it not coming out of gear because the clutch is not quite getting enough push. so I am going to try and bleed back from the slave bleed nipple forwards into the reservoir. A friend has a bleeder which should allow me to do that. will try that over the weekend. fingers crossed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mg4lotus Posted July 2, 2020 Report Share Posted July 2, 2020 good luck🤞 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LotusFella Posted July 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2020 Ok went to reverse bled today and noticed fluid on floor at front where MC is located. Removed front clam and it was wet around where those shit plastic fitting attach the the cable and MC. What a crap design. Anyway cleaned up and reseated again. Reverse bleed from the slave and now have clutch again, but I’m not convinced it’s fixed/bled properly so I’m going to take it to Stratton, get them to check and bleed again. At least the clam is off and I can trailer it to them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruss Posted July 5, 2020 Report Share Posted July 5, 2020 Glad you found the potential fault area. Bugger though, feel for you. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LotusFella Posted July 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2020 Ok, it looks like it was the sh*t plastic connector onto the master cylinder was not seating correctly! There is a “top hat” on the end of the clutch pipe. What a shit design. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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