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Thx.

anyone have any words of wisdom on the best way to change it.  As it looks very tight and awkward?

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If the slave isn't connected to the hydraulic line yet, you can push the pin into the body. If it is connected, you could also open the bleeder and lose some fluid while pushing the pin back in. 

Motul RBF660 is recommended a lot for Lotus cars.  Thats what ES motorsports use in my car and is suitable for track use.  Available via Amazon if local shops are closed at the moment. This is no

I had this issue back in January. Its not possible to change the master cylinder on RHD cars with the clam on.  You have to remove the clam and you need two people to remove the master cylinder a

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On 19/06/2020 at 21:36, LotusFella said:

Thx.

anyone have any words of wisdom on the best way to change it.  As it looks very tight and awkward?

WARNING
Do not attempt to bleed the clutch hydraulic system when the catalytic converter is hot - spilled hydraulic
fluid could initiate a fire. Wait until the engine and converter is cool to the touch.
To replace the slave cylinder
To remove:
Remove the rear undertray (see sub-section a - introduction for details). - -
- From underneath the vehicle, disconnect the clutch pipe union and immediately seal the open end of the -
pipe and the cylinder port.
Release the two fixing bolts and withdraw the cylinder. - -
Take all necessary precautions to guard against contamination of painted surfaces with brake fluid. - -
To refit/replace:
Is the reversal of removal. - -
Refit the the two M8 bolts securing the slave cylinder to the bell housing, torque to 12 Nm. - -
Re-connect the clutch pipe union to the cylinder, torque to 15 Nm.- -
Bleed the system of air, tightening the bleed nipple to 5 Nm.- -
Finally, ensure that the heat shield is returned to its original shape in order adequately to protect the slave - -
cylinder and hydraulic line.
Hydraulic Pipe
A 2-part rigid steel pipe is used to convey the hydraulic fluid from the master cylinder to the left hand front
corner of the engine bay. The pipe is routed down the LH 'A' post to run along the outside of the chassis LH

main siderail, within the composite sill member, and is supported, together with other pipes and hoses in foam
blocks. Another pipe is used to connect the rear end of the chassis pipe to an NVH clutch damper mounted on
the transmission. A short rigid pipe then connects the damper to the slave cylinder.
The clutch damper was introduced as a running change and contains a flexible diaphragm to damp out pressure
pulsations in the line caused by frequencies generated by crankshaft that are isolated from rest of chassis
via engine mounts etc, but when the clutch pedal depressed the frequency travels through the clutch cover,
release bearing, slave cylinder and through the fluid line up to the clutch pedal.
These pulsations give the symptoms of a ‘roaring’ noise and vibration which can be felt through the clutch pedal
when it is depressed at high revs, typically 5000 rpm.
‘12 MY vehicles from VIN CH_10179 have been fitted with additional protective heat wrapping positioned around
the clutch slave cylinder pipe to provide insulation from potential excessive engine bay temperatures. The brake
fluid contained within the clutch pipe may exceed its maximum working temperature especially if the vehicle is
subjected to either extreme ambient temperatures and/or regular continuous high speed driving.
Vehicles subjected to these conditions have experienced difficultly in engaging or changing gear combined with
other symptoms such as very little or no resistance required to depress the clutch pedal or the clutch pedal has
failing to return to its original position when released,
Also see Technical Service Bulletin TSB 2011/29 for further details.

 

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Any tips on how to get the clutch fork depressed enough to get slave back on? Bloody PITA job. 
thx

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If the slave isn't connected to the hydraulic line yet, you can push the pin into the body. If it is connected, you could also open the bleeder and lose some fluid while pushing the pin back in. 

Also, I wanted to mention that one of the members over here recently swapped in the CRT-085 release cylinder, and noted that the pedal pressure was increased, likely due to a smaller diameter bore. Upon more researching, it seems the Toyota Avensis that also used the BG6 transmissions call for the Aisin CRT-087 as a replacement part, which looks exactly like the 085 part externally, but there's a good chance the bore is slightly increased (20.55mm on the 085, probably closer to ~22mm on the 087 I'm guessing). 

Of course the Avensis wasn't sold here in the States, so in order to thoroughly put this replacement part hunt to bed, I've ordered one from Latvia and will compare the OE one to the 087 part once it arrives. 

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Thx line not connect but still difficult to get in enough to be able to get bolts in. Access is so awkward. 

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Assume this is not the upgraded heat wrap?  Where can I get some from and what’s recommended. 
thx

95D413F9-5BAB-4936-8B07-47433CDE803B.jpeg

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Okay worst fears realised.  Changed the slave also and still will not allow disengagement of gear!

When I started it went into reverse fine.  Started to reverse engaged clutch and braked to a stop.  Will not come out of gear! Finally stalled engine.  Then clutch pedal  only coming half way up.  Foot under to bring back. Then can engage again to put in reverse or first.

What could it be?  New master cylinder faulty also?  I don’t suspect clutch as I can get it into gear and hold clutch in so not moving.  It’s just getting it out of gear?

 

 

 

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It can only be air in the system somehow. Don't panic!

 

At this stage I'd get it to a Lotus specialist to sort it.  From yours I'd give ES motorsports a call. You may have someone nearer but I haven't used anyone in Cambs.

 

 

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ok could it be the clutch release bearing or the fingers not moving enough to allow it to disengage?

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The release fork is controlled by the release (slave) cylinder. So if it's not moving much when you press the clutch pedal, then something is weird with the hydraulics. 

If it's moving an appropriate amount but the clutch isn't disengaging, then it could be a bad clutch cover/pressure plate or clutch disc. 

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so if I'm going to replace the clutch, etc do i go OEM or after market?  Options of whats good.  Engine is standard S variant. 

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33 minutes ago, LotusFella said:

so if I'm going to replace the clutch, etc do i go OEM or after market?  Options of whats good.  Engine is standard S variant. 

After much research I have just ordered Xtreme Clutch 1C kit for my Exige. This is the ceramic version that can handle over 900NM (I am currently running around 530NM so should be easily able to cope) but I am told that it retains good road manners/driveability. They also have an organic version (1A) which is closer to OEM but can still handle plenty more abuse than standard.

Will report back once mine arrives.

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Do you need to replace the clutch?

I'm not convinced from your description that that is the problem.

Is it possible to remove the slave cylinder and bleed it while holding it above the level of the master cylinder? or is it possible to jack the car up to allow the slave to sit higher than the master?

 

If you do decide that the clutch needs replacing then I'd look at the evora 400 parts including the flywheel and counter balance arrangement. While all the faff and expense of removing the gearbox is taking place, then the premium on the 400 parts is minimal and will give you a better drive.

 

 

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Painterdave said:

I presume there's not some sort of missing return spring on the clutch pedal

The clutch pedal will need to return fully to the top when your bleeding it

I spotted that bit of information as well, but nobody else seems to be picking up on it.

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Also recommend the 400 clutch. I had that installed on mine a couple of years ago and it has been great. Only just starting to struggle now following installation of my TVS1900 kit, but even so it’s still holding up ok for general driving.

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3 hours ago, mg4lotus said:

I spotted that bit of information as well, but nobody else seems to be picking up on it.

I don't believe so.  I have discovered :-

So I drove the car into the garage and could not remove from gear so turned engine off and but did not lift the clutch pedal back up.  Then lifted the car to see the slave piston position and the it was  all the way in.  I think I still have an air lock somewhere in the system.  That may account for it not coming out of gear because the clutch is not quite getting enough push. so I am going to try and bleed back from the slave bleed nipple forwards into the reservoir.  A friend has a bleeder which should allow me to do that.  will try that over the weekend. fingers crossed. 

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Ok went to reverse bled today and noticed fluid on floor at front where MC is located.  Removed front clam and it was wet around where those shit plastic fitting attach the the cable and MC.  What a crap design.  Anyway cleaned up and reseated again.  Reverse bleed from the slave and now have clutch again, but I’m not convinced it’s fixed/bled properly so I’m going to take it to Stratton, get them to check and bleed again.  At least the clam is off and I can trailer it to them.

 

 

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Ok, it looks like it was the sh*t plastic connector onto the master cylinder was not seating correctly!  There is a “top hat” on the end of the clutch pipe.  What a shit design.

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