LotusFella Posted May 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2020 can you take the clam off with the bumper attached? and if so do you have to take the under tray off or just remove the front bolts. Sorry for my language but lotus WTF! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LotusFella Posted May 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2020 Well what a fing nightmare that was. they are off both bumper and clam shall be painting the grill whilst the bumper is off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LotusFella Posted May 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2020 Okay there is some device with a fork Connecting to an arm on the clutch, obscuring access with an hex head bolt. Assume I can just unscrew and unplug connector without doing a harm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotsdave Posted May 16, 2020 Report Share Posted May 16, 2020 (edited) Sorry. I didn't have that bolt on mine! That's the switch for the cruise control/fuel cut for ECU. Just the single screw and off it comes. Edited May 16, 2020 by Scotsdave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LotusFella Posted May 17, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2020 New clutch in and all good. Just need to paint front grill and refit clams. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LotusFella Posted June 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2020 Ok after changing the master cylinder all seemed fine. Today I went to Stratton Motor Company (Very good job/service and reasonable prices) to get the Aux belt changed and they noted that when they reversed the car the clutch went half way down so didn't engaged properly. After a few tries it was then okay. Could it be that I have not bled it enough (still a little air in system)? I have not experienced it and was fine when I tried it on the forecourt and on the way home. Could the slave cylinder be playing up? They said that the slave cylinder recall had been done on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agentdr8 Posted June 5, 2020 Report Share Posted June 5, 2020 It's possible there was still air in the lines. The slave cylinders are a rather solid Toyota part, but the seals can go bad on them eventually. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotsdave Posted June 5, 2020 Report Share Posted June 5, 2020 It took me a few goes to get all the air out of mine. Even with a pressure bleeder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LotusFella Posted June 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2020 Ok thx all. Will bleed again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LotusFella Posted June 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2020 ok bleed and no air came out. Today whilst reversing to park (had to reverse about 3 car lengths) it wouldn't come out of gear even though I had my foot on the clutch. In the end I had to put my foot on the brake, release the clutch and let it stall? Then drove home. All seeming okay! What could this be? 😠😠😠😠😠 It looks like the problem manifests itself when you creep along. as it then did something similar in 1st gear when putting the car in the garage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruss Posted June 16, 2020 Report Share Posted June 16, 2020 It can't be anything other than a draqging clutch. If it works sometimes but not others the it is air trapped in the system. Put your foot on the clutch and it moves the lever to release the clutch plate. Keep your foot down and air gradually allows the lever to move back a little. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LotusFella Posted June 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2020 ok so bleed again from slave? how much fluid should I allow to run through? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruss Posted June 16, 2020 Report Share Posted June 16, 2020 It could be that a seal has gone and air is leaking in gradually, or it could be that air is trapped and you need a pressure bleeder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LotusFella Posted June 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2020 Seal on the slave? As I have replaced the master. I have used a pressure bleeder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruss Posted June 16, 2020 Report Share Posted June 16, 2020 Its possible. If the slave has developed a 'ridge' where the seal was sitting previously and then the new clutch has changed the 'resting' point of the seal then its possible that the seal is no longer seating properly. It happens on older cars that have been sitting unused. It may be that. If you bleed the system and then the reverse and first gear work without any creeping, but later after some time then develops creeping, the air is leaking in somewhere. If it creeps immediately after the clutch has been bled, then the air has not been removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LotusFella Posted June 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2020 Ok that’s a plan, thx very much. The cars only done 26k and 2010 so could be that. Is changing the slave a ball ache? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LotusFella Posted June 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2020 ok so bleed again from slave, allowed around 30cm of fluid to come through pipe no obvious bubbles 😠😠😠. clutch still not releasing. how much fluid should I allow through system? Is there anywhere else I should bleed from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruss Posted June 18, 2020 Report Share Posted June 18, 2020 Bugger! Back to steps taken so far. Clutch was replaced with pressure plate and centre plate? Both slave and master now replaced or seals replaced? Air bled out with a pressure bleeder? Are there still air bubbles, after bleeding, leaving for 30 mins and bleeding again? if no bubbles you now need an assistant. One pushes the cluth pedal, the other looks for movement in the pipes flexing and for movement of the operating arm coming out of the slave. After that I'm lost. The pressure plate has to see enough movement to allow the centre plate to be released. If the movement isn't enough then its usually air compressing in the system rather than the fluid moving and pushing the rod. If the rod is moving enough then the problem is within the clutch housing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LotusFella Posted June 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2020 Ok thx, god I hope its a slave cylinder. clutch and pressure plate not changed as far as I know only had car since November 2019. Car Mileage only 26500miles master cylinder changed 3 weeks ago slave not changed yet. I’ll get an assistant and test. thx again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LotusFella Posted June 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2020 How difficult is it to change the slave cylinder? Can it be done without engine out? I have a 2 post lift. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agentdr8 Posted June 18, 2020 Report Share Posted June 18, 2020 Only 2 bolts hold the slave on, in addition to the hydraulic line. Aisin CRT-085. No need to remove engine, just the rear under tray. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LotusFella Posted June 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2020 Thx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Painterdave Posted June 19, 2020 Report Share Posted June 19, 2020 (edited) 🤞pump the pedal rapidly and then wege it down with a length of wood and leave it overnight don't know if this will help used to work 20-years ago on black cabs thanks bye ps with bleed nipple shut Edited June 19, 2020 by Painterdave Adding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LotusFella Posted June 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2020 19 hours ago, agentdr8 said: Only 2 bolts hold the slave on, in addition to the hydraulic line. Aisin CRT-085. No need to remove engine, just the rear under tray. Ordered. Hope they are reasonable quality? very inexpensive part Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agentdr8 Posted June 19, 2020 Report Share Posted June 19, 2020 It's the exact same part that Toyota uses on those transmissions in other vehicle configurations. When you go to pull the OEM one off, it should have AISIN embossed on the side. Aisin makes quality hydraulics; a lot of master cylinders in Toyota vehicles are theirs as well, and they usually last 100K miles easy. It's a shame Lotus didn't use them for the master; would have avoided a lot of issues that people encounter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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