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Rear body mount repair - Interior/Exterior/Lights/Glass/Alarms/ICE/HVAC - The Lotus Forums #ForTheOwners Jump to content


Rear body mount repair


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  • Gold FFM

Its been a job sat on the to-do list for quite a while but given that many of the other jobs on the list are now blocked due to a parts supply delay this issue has risen to the top again.

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I've seen suggestions of reinstate as was with new bobbin, ditch the bobbin and graft a metal plate in or no metal work at all, just rebuild the fibreglass and use large washers to spread the load each side. I'm not sure what approach is best, so can anyone offer thoughts.

Also, while I'm at it, I have an Isopon fibreglass kit I bought from Halfords at the tail end of last year for repairing a fibreglass pond liner, will this kit be sufficient to repair the body, or do I need something more specific/specialised for the Esprit.

Finally, does anyone know how many layers of fibreglass were actually used in the body?

Norfolk Mustard S4s #1 :)

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  • Gold FFM

Thanks Ian. I've got an enforced week off work starting a week tomorow so I'm looking to gather all the necesary stuff in advance of then for whatever approach I end up taking.

Norfolk Mustard S4s #1 :)

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The sheet steel piece was just a mould to get the shape to lay up on. Important to grind and feather back the GRP a reasonable distance to give a good surface for the new material to key onto before laying up in successively larger, shaped pieces of chopped strand mat to the right height. There must be at least 7 layers of mat (can’t remember what the weight was, sorry), and perhaps as many as 9.

I’ve had no problems with the repair, and the cars has done several thousand miles since then. Hope this helps.

Margate Exotics.

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Indeed, and do you know, I just happened to have some laying around. My boats have to put up with a bit of rough stuff, and use it extensively in their construction. Here’s one I project managed earlier.....

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Margate Exotics.

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  • Gold FFM

That's making my stomach churn just looking at those photos.

I thought the esprit used polyester resin and I thought I read somehwere that you can't mix the two, of have a got the wrong end of the stick there?

Norfolk Mustard S4s #1 :)

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When doing a repair like this you are not mixing different resin types as the composite has cured. Any new lay up is relying purely on the resin behaving as an adhesive and forming a mechanical bond between the old and the new. When looking for maximum strength in a composite the choice of resin is usually determined by the reinforcement material.

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  • Gold FFM

There's so much information to take in in terms of fibreglassing. So it sounds like epoxy is the route, now I've got to decide if chopped strand mat is the way forward or biaxial material. the latter I imagine would be harder to feather out in the repair, but I wonder if one layer of it might provide additional strength in the layup.

Having inspected the bobbin that's come out of my chassis more closely I think the reason its failed is its basically only encaspsulted in resin, there is little if any glass strands showing in it, so its little wonder its punched straight through.

A slightly more mundane query. Is there supposed to be a spacer between the body and the chassis at these rear mounts? None is shown in the part catalogue but interestingly the passenger side rear mount appears to be sitting noticably higher relative to the chassis than on the drivers side. The passengers side isn't damaged and doesn't look to have ever been repaired, but when I took the following snap there appears to be a spacer sat in there and its now got me questinging why is been put on that side only.

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Norfolk Mustard S4s #1 :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Have used epoxy/cloth throughout my S2 restoration for the superior qualities of the resin and the fact that I don't care at all for the smell of the polyester resin in conventional GRP. Epoxy has very good bonding to other materials so is altogether fine laid up over a prepared, cured polyester surface however I'm not confident it works the other way around so advise you stay with epoxy if going over to that. As for feathering out the square patterned cloth I recently observed how this is easily accomplished by cutting pieces smaller than the intended final coverage so that they may be overlapped in free-form graduation. This also affords opportunity to clock the pieces in such a way as to establish structure with myriad fibre orientations, thus emulating a top-shelf chopped strand lay-up.

Cheers

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