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Water is gushing from a coolant hose located at the front of the engine hose of my 1987 Esprit turbo but I can't access the rear side of it from the top of the engine.

As it burst out more when I accelerate, I believe it may be a hose that comes from the water pump ( I don't have the parts drawing)

Do you know whether this hose can be accessed from under the car or it is neccesary to pull out thengine (!) in order to have access to the front of the engine to replace it ?

 

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Hi Ekwan, My car does not have carburettors since it's an injection - HCI  model. 

Yeah, easier to remove the intake manifold.   But, if you are the optimistic type, remove the rectangular plenum on the right side of the intakes, and feel around during your attempt. You wo

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Can be done from above and below fairly strait forward.

https://www.rdent.com/manuals/esprit/engine/ed.htm

this will give you an idea not exactly the same but it will be number 11 which on your car will be a bendy hose that goes around everything

Edited by Smithy111
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If the hose is split which it may have if rubbed on the cam belt/pulley you will need this:

https://www.sjsportscars.com/parts-and-accessories/SJ082K0030.htm

The rest is just a jubilee clip at each end its tight to get your hand down the top to connect to the pump spigot but quite doable. Bottom is easy enough just make sure its aligned do it clears the belts and pulleys as its all very close down there.

Edited by Smithy111
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Hi Chris,

Unfortunately this is not the hose I am talking about.

It goes from the inlet manifold to the water pump.

It can definitely not be accessed from above.

I've been under the car and I think you need , at least, to remove all the parts from up to the water pump to get access to it.

I am even still wondering whether pulling out the engine would not be the only way...

 

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that looks quite different from my LC Esprit isnt it the water pump return from the radiator? Theres alot more pipes in the way than mine. HCI?

Also your cambelt looks a long way forward on the pulleys there?

Edited by Smithy111
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That's the hose that's tapered quite a bit (c15mm difference IIRC). I've done it from above, but on a TE that means removing the inlet plenum to get a decent amount of access. I think I had to remove the alternator. The fact that yours is an injection may make it worse. When I did it from above I relied on the fact the hose is quite a large bore and so can be folded to a V shape and so you don't have to remove either the pump or manifold, it wasn't easy but it was possible

@Smithy111  No it's not the rad one, it's as @nanardos indicates, it's from inlet manifold to the pump.

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I've done a few of these.  The first I did in the same way as @andydclements.  Clemo, kudos if you still do them that way!  Horrible job, so horrible that I'd rather remove the manifold.  Cleaning the mating faces and replacing the gasket is preferable to trying to shoehorn that thing in.

British Ambassador to Florida, New York, Denmark and Newfoundland.  And Sweden.

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Yeah, easier to remove the intake manifold.

 

But, if you are the optimistic type, remove the rectangular plenum on the right side of the intakes, and feel around during your attempt. You won't be able to see anything. Lotus Tool #2 (a mirror) will help but your hands will block the view.

 

Also, note that the original hose isn't straight, it has a slight offset or 'kink'. So, get the bespoke part from one of the US suppliers.

This knowledge assists when re-fitting the replacement, so that it can more easily be lined-up.

 

 

Might also be two different diameters on each end. Can't remember ALL my Lotus nightmares... 😬😂🤡

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Atwell Haines

'88 Esprit

Succasunna, NJ USA

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Hi Atwell,

I will try your method tomorrow, wish me luck...

My concern is not only the hose.

I suspect the original 33years old water pump might need be replaced too.

If that is the case, I suppose I will have to remove the manifold anyway ?

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If you need to replace the pump then you could leave the manifold in place and not struggle as you'll get access from between the manifold and the firewall where the pump was. That said, if the pump isn't leaking now then I'd suggest leaving it as you'd really want to send the pump off to be refurbished or you have to be meticulous in cleaning & preparing the surfaces to get good seal on the pitted ali casting of the pump.

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18 hours ago, andydclements said:

if the pump isn't leaking now then I'd suggest leaving it

X2.

 

Using Lotus Tool #2 😄 inspect the weep hole under the pump.  No coolant = leave that job for the next cam-belt replacement.

 

PS:  with an HCI, you need to remember that you need replacement copper washers on-hand for the banjo bolts on the fuel lines. Manifold removal is a lot more intense with Bosch FI.

Atwell Haines

'88 Esprit

Succasunna, NJ USA

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Hi Atwell,

Re the copper washers , SJ Sportscars are selling these parts https://www.sjsportscars.com/parts-and-accessories/A910E6719F.htm in 8mm or 12 mm

and this" injectors fittiing kit"  https://www.sjsportscars.com/parts-and-accessories/SJ910E0034.htm.

I haven't removed the injectors on my car yet but before doing so I want to be sure I;ve got the right parts.

Are the copper washers you are mentioning located on the manifold sie or the Bosch K-Tronic unit  side, please ?

Regars

Bernard

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You need several different sizes of copper washer to remove ALL the Bosch fuel components. Years ago, I bought a boxed kit of various sizes.

https://www.amazon.com/Eowpower-140Pcs-Sealing-Washers-Assortment/dp/B01N2WHZ13

 

 

Most of the car's are 8 mm, but there are a few 10, 12s, and 14s (or is it 15mm? sorry). During this pandemic and lockdown, I amused myself by smoothing the pressed ridges on my old washers so that they could be used again. Developed that 'skill' one time, when I was short on new washers while removing the WUR (Warm Up Regulator). The smoothing process works!  No issues🥴

 

The Injector Fitting Kit is needed when removing the injectors for spray-pattern and opening pressure testing. The thin ones on the tip are really important (if torn, that is a vacuum leak). The fatter green or black one at the top merely centers the injector in its 'hole'.

If you are just removing the manifold, you don't need to remove the injectors. Just the compression hex fitting at the end of the plastic fuel line.

Atwell Haines

'88 Esprit

Succasunna, NJ USA

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