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After lots of messing about with bracket moving due to receiving a S1 rear bumper from SJ and the fact federal cars have a reinforced section grafted in for impacts preventing normal fixing access it

After poor Nick took a 5 hour drive back from Southampton to Plymouth my JPS is finally home and from the look of the dust as seen water for the first time in years with the rain today! I d

Time for a new project now the mini is complete and building a few miles, with the Evora now gone I had some space so started looking for my next acquisition. I wanted a S1 or S2 but ideally a JP

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Day spent cleaning the engine and box then got those Air injectors removed so I can manufacture some plugs on the lathe this week.050E8B18-7D74-437D-BD43-5C4BBB5AD144.thumb.jpeg.38cb58d8c3fc381b7b46619aec84f2dc.jpeg
In the tray ready for some Gunk

B2A05EB1-094A-4823-AB54-705A3659259F.thumb.jpeg.0c178d6235b7892d1be3386d088b5eaa.jpegThe Air injectors actually block around 20% of the exhaust ports so glad they are gone now.

3E0D492C-B1C8-4D26-B3F5-E31AED15A9BB.thumb.jpeg.2edff6ada41f94f95ac30139977a2df4.jpegI think I know why the car was taken off the road and the clutch wasn’t working as it’s completely fried from slipping with oil. I don’t think the Gaco seal is the route cause though as the sump is missing two fastenings and seems to be where the oil is coming from. Either way I will be replacing the sump gasket, Rear Crank seal along with the housing gasket.

Now do I need to replace the very expensive pressure plate? It’s not scored and appears good but does have what appears a small amount of blueing.

47F10421-BACE-487D-B894-7F988FF31ABA.thumb.jpeg.2ce4a9f05c1b3cc849b4e1cc3fdfb106.jpeg

8A0C21B7-5626-4E4E-B5D1-E24D722AC382.thumb.jpeg.a89f1984f04f548d7e007c19e11ffcf5.jpegThe two missing nuts on the sump behind the bell housing, this explains the dirt on the gearbox being a mix of oil deposits and clutch dust.

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Now back out and back to the bath to clean it all up.

Dave :) 

 

 

 

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The timing on the engine is off so couldn’t have run well with the distributor marks aligned to the wrong side of the dimple and still out some, probably from use of a mirror I assume and not allowing for the tension.

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6630D903-BBBD-466E-893E-0B4D768FE645.thumb.jpeg.50737beb6fc1d8b10e859b1745a2709d.jpeg

I measured the Air injector threads with the male being 3/8” x 28 TPI and the female 1/2” x 26 TPI.

I can’t buy plugs or bolts of the shelf in 3/8 size as very fine with 3/8 UNF being 24 TPI so may just cut the injectors then blank the female threads.

I rechecked the valve clearances this evening as easier on the trolley but sizes are accurate so the inlet bank is coming off tomorrow once on the engine stand so I can order some smaller shims.

I will need to put the flywheel back on before I tension the belt just to confirm TDC although the crank pulley line looked accurate when I did the initial measurements in the car.

I have decided to replace the pressure plate for the clutch.

Next thing is to resist replacing the rings and shells when on the engine stand 😁😉

Dave :) 

 

 

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I tried a 1/8” BSP Die nut on the injector today which did cut but only a little so ordered some 1/8” BSP blanking plugs, I will run a tap down the head after plugging the ports just so nothing fires up. 👍🏻
Dave :) 

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Hi Dave, after my oil pressure issues there are a few things I would do. Remove the oil strainer pipe and and check it for “necking”. Any indentation where  the olive sits and the pipe needs replacing. S and J sell the pipe. The new olive must be applied with oil and torqued up correctly.  
Secondly take the oil pump apart and measure all tolerances and check the PRV for scoring. Better still renew the annulus and rotor using the same method I did to correctly size the rotor if its stiff. The pump can be tested on your stand using the drill method you did on the S1. Figures for how much oil should pump with a drill are on my blog as a rough check- obviously depends on drill and speed, but its a ballpark. When its finished take the plugs out and turn it over 2 minutes and 30 secs it took for mine to pump oil. If none comes out there is an issue with the oil pump or pickup pipe - do not start engine until its resolved in the hope pressure will build. 
I was told by a well known builder they never pack the pumps with graphogen and always get pressure. Probably because the pump and pipe are perfect. I would pack with graphogen, as it does no harm. I know you have done all this before, but I have done it twice recently so it might jog your memory.

My S1 started to show what seemed a low oil pressure when hot. The S1 only needs 5psi at idle. I removed the oil pipe from the sender and measured the pressure with a test gauge. It was 35 psi! This is the pressure stated for 3500 rpm, so you did a good job on that engine! The low needle position was being caused by a faulty sender and its electrical contact.

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Thanks Fabian, great advice and yes I was planning to do the oil pump run but need to get a couple blanking caps for my oil cooler connections as all going to be new and don’t want to connect the old one and introduce contamination into the clean engine.

I will need to connect the alternator bracket as on the federal cars it forms part of the pump housing. I will order a Aux housing gasket and do the inspection 👍🏻
Dave :) 

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Another way is to switch out the oil filter screw and screw the oil filter directly to the housing, removing the oil cooler sandwich plate. Thats what I did. If I find the thread I could send you it, although I haven’t got a clue where it has gone! I will have a look.

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10 hours ago, Lotusfab said:

When its finished take the plugs out and turn it over 2 minutes and 30 secs it took for mine to pump oil. If none comes out there is an issue with the oil pump or pickup pipe - do not start engine until its resolved in the hope pressure will build. 
I was told by a well known builder they never pack the pumps with graphogen and always get pressure. Probably because the pump and pipe are perfect. I would pack with graphogen, as it does no harm

I for one have seen just how problematic pump pick up can be. You can reverse pump oil up the galleries on a turbo - but I’ve never managed to get a pump to prime itself without doing this. Pack the pump with graphogen - it’s simply not worth the risk.

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Only here once

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Thanks guys, I will definitely undertake. The seller did take the car to a garage before I bought it and got them to run it up with a gravity fuel supply which wasn’t ideal as I would of preferred to have just run it after a thorough going through and most garages don’t know these cars to well.

8487DD94-0D78-47FB-A141-7309F59D1169.thumb.jpeg.842946954b0fb2a935cca527e0a0f142.jpegI hope that oil soaked cardboard wasn’t this car 🙄

I can’t find the movie file he sent on my iPad for some reason, it sounded ok other than the smoke from all the oil.

I did try to release the screw connection on the oil filter yesterday but suspect it’s been loctited in place and didn’t want to damage it, I can pick up some BSP blanks from work for the sandwich plate so no real issue.

I will need to get some graphogen grease though.
I am tempted to pull the head and put new shells and rings in it but trying desperately to resist as such low mileage, just finding little issues keeps me thinking 🤔😂

Dave :) 

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Not sure if it's a trick of the light in the picture but the clean spring looks to have a smaller diameter which would make the characteristics quite different to the other one. 🙂

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It's getting there......

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I will measure that Tim although the old ones are caked in grease/oil and grime all dried in. They also had aluminium spacing plates below the bottom cup which I found on my last Elan M100 Development car which had a federal set up. 
Dave :) 

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