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Hi all

Has anyone changed the gear cables on a Stevens Turbo Esprit 1989? Did it help the gear change. I have had all other mod kits fitted but the change on the cross gate is very heavy. 

Cheers 

David 

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First check as @CarBuff stated , easy to check..  From experience the translator goes sloppy when used rather than tight, but still worth a check ... If you have old cables fitted they could be bindin

First thing to check is the cable translators (pivots) at the rear.  Lube them up, but if they are sloppy and imprecise, plan to replace them.

Atwell Haines

'88 Esprit

Succasunna, NJ USA

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14 hours ago, dcorns said:

Hi all

Has anyone changed the gear cables on a Stevens Turbo Esprit 1989? Did it help the gear change. I have had all other mod kits fitted but the change on the cross gate is very heavy. 

Cheers 

David 

First check as @CarBuff stated , easy to check..  From experience the translator goes sloppy when used rather than tight, but still worth a check ... If you have old cables fitted they could be binding , causing your issues...  Again easy to check... just disconnect at the translator and move the gear leaver in neutral orientation..  To be fair if your gear section movement is free then cross gate / neutral should be as they share the movement..     However there are other area's that can influence cross gate movement not related to cables or translator.. The first is the leaver mechanism itself , which is spring loaded with a few pivot points..  If you have done the disconnected cable test and it moves free then dismiss that...    So now we move on to the cross shaft itself within the box..   To test this disconnect the translator and move the shaft in and out as if in neutral .... this should be quite free, but is spring loaded .  It should always return to a central position freely..    If this is stiff then there is you problem ...   Inside the rear cover the cross shaft has two springs and hard plastic retaining collars ..  These collars can sometimes melt / de-form over time from the heat proximity of the exhaust back box, as a result cause the shaft to bind ' go stiff' ....  This cover can be removed and the problem solved without having to take out the whole box assembly ..   By doing all the tests and following procedure, you should be able to resolve this without to much expense..    Hope that helps .           

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Hi, 

Thank you for the information. As all the front and rear joints and fittings have been renewed, twice, and the update lever fitted. I think I'll go for new cables. 

Cheers 

David 

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I think I need a set of cables as well to be honest. I did the complete front mechanism on mine, and my gearbox was recently overhauled and the rear ball joints all replaced and it's still quite stiff to operate.

I've also not got the up to down alignment right as it's a bugger to go from 1st to 2nd, so before sorting that I may as well swap the cables.. or I'll only end up doing that job twice!

Are we using SJ for cables, and how much are they at the moment?

Mine are the original ones from '88 so I suppose they've done pretty well!!

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