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OOPS, CRASH BANG, REPAIR AND RENEW .. - Page 2 - Esprit 'Project & Restoration' Room - The Lotus Forums #ForTheOwners Jump to content


OOPS, CRASH BANG, REPAIR AND RENEW ..


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Excellent posting this so thanks 👍

The other thing I try to do which is just me but sensible is replace all the tyres at the same time to maximise the outcome, my view is the tyres are worn to the original set up so where possible you can plan ahead. My Elan drove so bad I had the tyres replaced before but wear was already showing as uneven so on the day paid out for another full set.
My current S2 Elan drives well but not as good as the silver car pictured so when the tyres are getting nearer to changing I will pay out for a half day session again (Post bush check/change and full clean up as already see the lower ball joints were advised on the last MOT).

I think the owner will be elated with his Esprit once Dave has worked his magic just shame it happened after the nice paint job.

Thanks for the tip with the Esprit, I will print off the manual and factory settings to make sure they feel confident first, I do trust them as their eyes light up when I take classics in to play with 😁

Dave :)

 

Do or do not, there is no try! 

 

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On the rear GAZ install, is there any isolation between frame and spring or is it metal to metal?

Did you need to fit a longer lower bolt or trim the spacer to allow the Nyloc to catch some threads?

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1 hour ago, snowrx said:

On the rear GAZ install, is there any isolation between frame and spring or is it metal to metal?

Did you need to fit a longer lower bolt or trim the spacer to allow the Nyloc to catch some threads?

On the kit I supply there is a thin rubber membrane in the top alloy adapter seats.  The standard thick rubber spring seats are removed .. 

The set up I provide is just straight bolt on, no trimming of the bearing shoulder spacer will be needed ..   The pic posted of one fitted above, was of a an early mock up unit.  That lower spacer format was what was supplied originally as standard for Esprit.  That along with a few other aspects were slightly changed during development.  Like most things what you buy as an aftermarket product is one fits all mentality .. I try to refine what is available to get the best results ,  GAZ are very good and will supply to my specific requirements ..  Following is  pics of final test set up that was approved .. You will see small difference on spacer set up . IMG_20160118_153939114.thumb.jpg.e063f747f2a66aaa6733ab49e922d64a.jpg

IMG_20160118_153946465_HDR.thumb.jpg.f7116aa76639ff47c92db6be190b3aab.jpg 

3 hours ago, andyblackman777 said:

Shame about the accident. 
What brand of tyres were on it?
 

Unfortunately they were a budget make, with very pliable sidewall.  This and 255 instead of 245 being  fitted to the rim allowed excessive tyre side wall roll on the rear .. not a good combination when mixed in with the rest.. Once again this should have been pointed out by the technician who fitted them, but i feel today they are just looking for the quick coin..        

  

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10 hours ago, Mysterae said:

Dave, when you say cut out a section and fit a matching section, is this from a donor car? Could you make up a matching piece from what you removed?

Sometimes from donor cars, You can still get Lotus old stock new sections if you know where to look .. And there are some after market parts and  repair sections still available. 

The only way to make a matching piece is to take a mold off the original . To do this the original has to be perfect ..  You also need to consider the cost of making a mold is 3 times the cost of the final part produced . 

 

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Reading this reminds me of my own restoration and having to make missing pieces. I was itching for a week after I finished these repairs...

https://ibb.co/DGfPR6T

Edited by Paul Coleman

Lotus Esprit [meaning] a 1:1 scale Airfix kit with a propensity to catch fire

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19 hours ago, CHANGES said:

joint edges are tapered to a blade edge where they join.  This is done to remove the butt joint effect . this will allow the GRP and resin to create a complete butt joint free surface when completed. Much stronger ..

Do you ever use epoxy resin for extra strength anywhere, or just normal polyester resin?

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It amazes me that folk spend £000's on detailing their thorough restorations but then skimp on suspension set-up and wheel alignment. Mine was in for most of the day after my complete rebuild. Spotting that the top front ball joint on the nearside needing swapping around just by looking at the front. 

Well worth the outlay. It drives great.

Lotus.thumb.jpg.9603a0909dddfe02b660c1ae9fe3d0e8.jpg

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I'd be interested in knowing the correct way to set up adjustable (rebound) dampers, as I fitted ProTech dampers all round, but know little about how they should be adjusted.

Though the car drives great. Cornering like on rails, the front can tend to crash over large pot holes, whereas my modern cars are largely unaffected. My local moors roads can be uneven due to severe winters and lack of maintenance.

I recently upped the inspec 18psi fronts to 25psi which has improved matters. Tyres being Maxxis MA-1s which improved things greatly. The rears are Dunlop Classic and remain at 28psi. I figured that new tyre carcasses require and perform better using modern pressures.

Iain Tyrrell spoke recently about suspension in one of his excellent videos on You Tube. Recounting some suspension experts who dismiss adjustable dampers over the basic suspension geometry and spring rates combo.

 

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2 hours ago, Fridge said:

I'd be interested in knowing the correct way to set up adjustable (rebound) dampers, as I fitted ProTech dampers all round, but know little about how they should be adjusted.

When I get to that section in this thread i will go into a bit of extra detail with pic's etc to try and make things clearer. 

2 hours ago, Fridge said:

Though the car drives great. Cornering like on rails, the front can tend to crash over large pot holes, whereas my modern cars are largely unaffected. My local moors roads can be uneven due to severe winters and lack of maintenance.

This is where it all get interesting. Having a hard suspension where you have little travel in the spring can make little bumps feel big , with poor contact / traction at same time .. On the smooth roads great , but not all roads are smooth .. Finding the balance with spring rate damping and ride quality is the trick .. 

2 hours ago, Fridge said:

I recently upped the inspec 18psi fronts to 25psi which has improved matters. Tyres being Maxxis MA-1s which improved things greatly. The rears are Dunlop Classic and remain at 28psi. I figured that new tyre carcasses require and perform better using modern pressures.

Tyre's are and always will be an integral part.   Profile,  width, pressure and compound will all have an effect..  again its about the best balance with what you use.. 

2 hours ago, Fridge said:

Iain Tyrrell spoke recently about suspension in one of his excellent videos on You Tube. Recounting some suspension experts who dismiss adjustable dampers over the basic suspension geometry and spring rates combo.

The adjust ability is more a facility to accommodate a requirement , rather than something to play with .. Once set you leave alone till next GEO check , Then if needs a small tweak to allow for settlement is all that should be needed ..   When doing a production car , once you have all the settings then its cheaper to get manufacturer to just repeat the settings in a fixed unit..  Most manufacturers geometry will be the best for any car..  However when original equipment is not available , along with some who like to go off spec , the adjustable format fills the requirement.   This will allow you to get as close to the original design feel with parts that are available .. or personalize to your needs ..   

TBC        

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