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Idle air control valve


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Hi Steve,

Just drop in at a local bearing supplier.

They will usually match it up at the counter.

Frequently no charge for a single O ring or 50p for the tea kitty max.

Andy

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  • Gold FFM

If you can find out the dimensions I use Simply Bearings for O-rings, they have a huge selection and good descriptions of the different materials available. Nitrile is probably the most common and would be fine for this application, I tend to use Viton for more demanding loads (but I am no expert so may have this completely wrong). 😇

https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/Products-O-Ring-Seals/c4747_4515/index.html

cheers

-Chris

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Thanks for the replies, I have been chasing a running rich problem for the last 3 months with code 26 showing very rarely. In the last couple of days I have tested the 8 relays and one remaining solenoid in the relay box in the rear of my S4, all seem ok.Today I tested the secondary injector resistor,this afternoon the resistance between the two used pins was first infinity and after a good shaking about 15 ohms, tonight about 3ohms unchanged when shaken.Doh.Has anyone had this resistor apart? Is it the wire wound type?Does anyone know the specifications of B082M6442F or an alternative that doesn’t throw the check engine light 

l have had the charcoal canister off.With No current to solenoid , no air can be sucked out of the purge orifice, current then air ,so solenoid seems ok. It did not have fuel in its reservoir when I removed it.I realise this still leaves its wiring and signal to be tested. Is it possible to test for the ecu signal?

Comments welcome 

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Hi Steve,

The soldering quality inside the relays and the ballast resistor is usually quite dodgy and the soldered joints crack due to vibration.

You need to do the continuity checks while wiggling the terminals to expose the defects.

My ballast resistor had intermittent continuity but it is easy to pull apart.

Use a Stanley knife to cut two of the case tabs off and then the remaining two tabs can be eased apart to release the base plate.

Some squirty foam holds the resister inside the case so it need a good pull to get it apart.

It is a 10w 3.3ohm resister but TBH it is usually ok and just needs the solder points re-flowing.

Here's a link if you do want to fit a new resistor.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-3-3-ohm-10W-High-Power-Resistor-3-3R-10Watt/200952607304?epid=19020593830&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item2ec9b57248:g:hCAAAOSw~y9ZND0s&enc=AQAFAAACYBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkrmmq8hWevtuKE7%2F%2BLfVXtsl%2FZajZNXQ2Y61F373paTIWEWyMKu%2Bn6nbwUQ%2B1dc13EEqLI9%2B%2F3rxbsqltVEDzP6qkO7bGlkU7BR1ydX2Vfe9nA5AmMOjqmaRgQ3EP%2BC0WqLpsRXYL%2FV76Bwx1%2B8Wh5yuR0i1JeQYKhZ4eOWu%2FpJv7p9RWJbGIDpMx4tniN0DdCRmBTNLm6D17K0TSRVkBnwUmgEMop3%2Fi43bpDlCF9LhkaBviluBxfj%2BMkoa3P89hY54YxwX7gTXetNq1mAnPbT3SiQnwmHtXYB2RcdTmLtd4DzT0Vh3BfGEzX69sEw2PG4FGerqdJRJvazhTxPmQQR43EMFs97V%2FRXqVw30RB09NQSLLbGRvyoXfDcsp5nhC6BkNNj1ZOGHB5aI8q7MHEaimXF1WPl4BYflZUjQd%2BX5VBMrv3VQlL2noIYgW9vIbd%2FKOer%2BQuBedfo7OKlBS%2F7ZFCj0Xfly%2BbQJmXx0d%2BK%2F1QBGLNaMx3X6S7CFfaiGHaeCrW0KJXitKLQA4oiRnkfYLulB5pmSoiXVkJnyDTiLj7cFJWDcnBepUR3zJCGZBFL%2BdrLCiWqFZ%2BmJhWjysE7NLFcEhhKoY3oPhqdOTgTiIr8Lm0IIHkqlRrALTU9A3DnlsgtirGiqRUHZxSW77LkboVZDQhAVxNJELNW3muoDiZ9CCigVDTTQcfJdWDwltjTX5d7uTHzPNxz8onQhqA9AGpHhKtSnwrHJESq0394o9mTx80qgcqWOf2wk%2Bfe2Q&checksum=20095260730410536353b06e4e3181167708e2e24d51

I think it's unlikely the code 26 is anything to do with the rich running though.

That will probably be a separate issue.

What makes you think it's running rich?

Andy.

 

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Hi Andy, is it really possible to solder spade connectors on to that ebay resistor and it work?.Running rich: very strong smell of fuel (done the usual suspects),poor mileage and m.o.t. emissions fail .

My resistor does not have tabs ,rather the three pins are set in a resin base which would presumably easily come apart, but I am reluctant to start until I know I can get a replacement.

 

 

 

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17 hours ago, stevefh said:

is it really possible to solder spade connectors on to that ebay resistor

Hi Steve,

That ebay resistor is exactly the same as what is in the ballast resistor case.

I reckon your resistor is fine, just needs the soldered joints re-flowing. Really easy once you've pulled the case apart.

If you wanted to replace the resistor, just fit the new one inside the case as it is now. Really simple soldering job.

If your ballast resistor has an intermittent continuity fault, you've nothing to loose. Carefully take it apart, it's very simple inside.

If you're worried, post it to me and I'll sort it for you and I'll post it back.

Your rich running will likely be a separate issue because the code 26 related faults don't cause this.

17 hours ago, stevefh said:

done the usual suspects

What are the "usual suspects" that you've done?

Andy.

 

 

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Hi Andy, before the mot emissions failure : changed both fuel tanks for aluminium, changed all soft hoses of the emissions system, checked for leaks in the fuel system, checked for leaks in the vacuum system ,removed ebpv and throttle jack and their solenoids.

After mot emissions fail: checked/tightened connections of contents of rear relay box, replaced primary injectors, have IAC Viton o ring to fit, have gear lever rubber gaiter to fit, in process of sorting secondary injectors and their resistor about which I am going to post.Thanks for your help so far.

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Hi Steve,

Is the CAT still in place?

Are the spark plugs sooty?

Do you have Espritmon?

Do you have a multi-meter?

IMO the rich running could be one of the following;

Coolant temp sensor (offset error)

O2 sensor (contaminated or error in reading)

TPS sensor (error due to wear)

MAP sensor (reading error)

MAT sensor (offset error)

Fuel pressure regulator (fuel pressure too high)

Leaking injectors (wear/damaged)

ECU (hopefully not)

Check the connectors at each.

Andy.

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Hi Andy, the cat is less than 10k old,  plugs are 200 miles but are iridium (see my post on plug gap) but we’re very sooty. I have used freescan to check sensor values and TPS (20k old) set up in the warm up to idle mode.They seemed ok. The engine coolant temperature sensor is about 5k old.I am trying to deal with the possibility of leaking secondary injectors, having replaced primaries. I have checked the vacuum pipe to the fprv for fuel to make sure its diaphragm has not failed but not its pressure as I haven’t got the equipment.

The o2 sensor supplied to me by swlc is the same as used on the V8 is less than 1k old.The ecu is 30k old,  so as you can see I’ve covered most of the things.

 I will have to reset the connections in all the relevant circuits, except at the ecu,a task I will leave if it still runs rich when I put it back together .

 I have not got data from freescan when driving because I cannot get it to disc/display in excel. I will have to work on this as it will give me a lot more data/ information.Can you help with my secondary injector post?

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59 minutes ago, stevefh said:

Can you help with my secondary injector post?

Hi Steve,

I've posted on that thread.

Have you tried Espritmon?

Also get yourself one of these.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vehicle-Fuel-Injection-Pump-Pressure-Gauge-Meter-Engine-Oil-Pressure-Tester-Kit/353112368361?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item52372324e9:g:CtcAAOSwGEFd5K7o&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACgBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkWpEuxXwAiCNKyBQsQ5%2Fe615L1KHLSLceclH0FM0KKWtINtOFdcZoPpAZ0M1UJqdqziytD2aHcHLoGUYYLnMBOQPVsNAlOB6IqwhMv9RG1HihaA6rRB9tN4J01DFuvTxPco%2FN1Kdjeom0WEimg26gHbEwa7Tcmrt%2FPfY22sbjv3ek2%2BkUhE5qzUrmQRUe7jngxsfHjGn9eAtdB2Um%2F2JzUdo00qDd6lk%2F4sk8Ef5B9Xp9O7vJVzhm%2BClby%2BIanqZ6B4DG4BBKms%2F9ta6TXq09d24svFOSPha4SfnHRrW9sX%2FjuZEKAjJWEAiWLltkVIfgkQNXniDjoN2YdABy2RBo%2FuMTSLkU9x8EWp%2B7qYI5lE8NLH6y%2BAHrNGr6NMJFBW9v%2FjRg3G2%2BNS7I0NgE9PrxyU1g6Yn7Jqn7WskHXU%2Bv2RjBqtV4sNiA0kTu9SZko9Bl1TseCJ3v%2FNAAizzOQRBA4SV3OakYwTMJFbbCbbRSUeCncxYic5gaQPzLimVFUZtGc8KFhrvRsqxxSeZm6Df2AI62%2BXssOZ0pCepCOSBH8TiT%2FFSZQrMNEefTEpn58%2B4ur7x0UkUXWNCBl1nDWCZhRq%2B3ZTWdDIM%2FdRq5u79PIfsdkaUiaIrMrveFsUKZvegG99PO3JXpCvOTsv1eNVKwlStQ4GxmO6GvifLGNpLxMjiJ%2F0c0WkOEJsyg3IP3JN3NBTKo6%2BDDHUEkYUJuQU9SayVJgGGC8mcYB%2BoX%2Fwp0GMqrhbe2T%2FQBtAQSTYRKtql1VXMDcFgxDiPaNUuyp773G09m3JtHpth9lO2igwXA3F8%3D|cksum%3A353112368361c739fee7629746d49bf2aeb2d720b78a|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2334524

 

Comes with the fittings you need for the Esprit and will allow you to check fuel pressure and see if aly injectors are leaking.

Andy.

Andy.

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Hi Andy, Would it be possible to modify this to make a pump to set up the waste gate actuator capsule, to make it dual purpose?

How is it possible for a 27 year old fuel pump ,through a filter that could only become less easy for fuel to pass through ,to increase the fuel pressure above that when the car was new? The fprv spring can only get weaker.

Edited by stevefh
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1 hour ago, stevefh said:

Would it be possible to modify this to make a pump to set up the waste gate actuator capsule,

TBH its a 7 bar gauge, in the kit, and a bit high range for accurately testing the waste gate actuator.

A 2 bar gauge would be better. Lots on ebay and not expensive.

1 hour ago, stevefh said:

How is it possible for a 27 year old fuel pump ,through a filter that could only become less easy for fuel to pass through ,to increase the fuel pressure above that when the car was new? The fprv spring can only get weaker.

That's a fair question. Best I can offer is;

1)  Your fuel pump may be newer than you think. Even if worn, it can still chug out 60+psi which needs regulating.

2)  The FPR does quite a balancing act and without over thinking this, the hardening of its diaphragm probably trumps the minuscule effect of a weakening spring. Pressure regulators are finely engineered devices. There's a complex interaction between the springs, the diaphragm and the valve orifice shape. Lots of potential for it to do strange things when worn or faulty.

3)  The service manual also lists a faulty FPR as a possible culprit for rich running due to high fuel pressure.

The FPR is only one of the things to consider during your diagnostics. The only way to know what its doing is to use the test kit.

Andy.

 

Edited by AndyPG
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Had this S4 for 25 years, definitely the original fuel pump.Do you tell the injectors are leaking by noting after the initial drop in pressure a continuing drop.?If I had not changed the primaries,how would you know whether primaries, secondary or both were leaking.What are the causes of injector leak? Will cleaning them cure it?

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Hi Steve,

You are right. The fuel pressure gauge won't pinpoint a single leaking injector.

My main focus was on how handy the cheap gauge kit is for checking your FPR.

Leaking injectors can be caused by either debris lodged in the valve or wear and tear.

To see if the secondaries are leaking, just remove the plenum nozzle complete with fuel lines and secondaries attached. Hold in a container then turn the ignition on to run the pump. Any leaks will be visible.

***Now before everyone jumps in, this is common practice and it goes without saying that you need to make sure you contain any fuel that might come out. Make sure the engine is stone cold and get an assistant to hold the nozzles pointing into a container. Have some rags to hand and a fire extinguisher too if you like.***

I've got an injector testing/cleaning rig so bench testing and cleaning them is straight forward. Don't mind doing them for you.

When I removed my injectors, none were leaking but two of the primaries and one of the secondaries were partially clogged. The flow rates were down and the spray patterns poor on these. All three of the affected injectors cleared easily on the rig and their performance restored to normal. Got to admit though, didn't notice any difference in the car's general running despite the eager anticipation.🙁

All said, I reckon the 02 sensor could be your number one suspect, for this rich running, despite it's relative youth.

Andy.

Edited by AndyPG
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On 17/09/2020 at 20:48, stevefh said:

I have been chasing a running rich problem for the last 3 months with code 26 showing very rarely.

21 hours ago, stevefh said:

removed ebpv and throttle jack and their solenoids.

Removing the solenoid will cause error code 26 because the quad driver will see this as an open circuit fault.

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AFAIK the EBPV and TJ solenois are controlled by a relay which in turn is controlled by the ECU. Only if the EBPV/TJ changeover relay is removed (or broken coil inside the relay) will it throw a code 26 error.

At least this is how it is on my SE

Esprit Freak

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They are off the car but the solenoid relay is still in the relay box and its incoming positive loops on to the wastegate solenoid which is  earthed through the ecm as required . See section ML sheet 4.I can see no connection from them to the ecm.

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Hi Steve,

As per previous messages, I'm pretty certain your intermittent code 26 isn't related to your rich running issue.

Have you considered replacing the O2 sensor yet?

Or try running Espritmon and upload the file so some of the experts can take a look.

Andy.

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When I get the S4 back together I will try to sort out freescan and get espritmon. .The manual says running rich caused by high fuel pressure may be due to a partially blocked or kinked fuel return hose.Has anyone ever had this happen ? What’s puzzling is that I was getting no codes for sensor problems ,charcoal canister or running rich, except a very rare 26.

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28 minutes ago, stevefh said:

What’s puzzling is that I was getting no codes for sensor problems

Hi Steve,

That's why I'm leaning towards the O2 sensor. If it's reading somewhat inaccurately (ie, not completely knackered), this can be the case.

Maybe try cleaning the O2 sensor. Sometimes contamination can be the issue. Worth a try.

The charcoal cannister can be eliminated from the suspect list by simply disconnecting the pipe that goes from the cannister solenoid to the inlet manifold.

Remember to plug it on the inlet manifold side to stop air leaking in.

Can't imagine the fuel return line being blocked. There is potential inside the FPR. Your new gauge kit will assess that😃

Andy.

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