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1 hour ago, Djs44 said:

Does it make any difference if the body is painted on the chassis or on a dolly ?

Also does anyone have a drawing of a dolly they've made to allow the body to be moved around whilst off the chassis ?

Thanks 

I made one using girders, 'U' bolts and large castor wheels to make it easier for it to be moved around. It was in use for almost a year.

The body shell was easy to reposition are required to access and paint the underside.

inCollage_20191031_222917855.thumb.jpg.b24752cbb54ccf21459e605a390bb83c.jpg

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That's number 82 back from the paintshop today, looks achingly good when it's that shiny. 

I recently purchased JPS no. 44 .The car has been off the road since 1993 . I managed to trace quite a bit of history from the posts on here - at one point it was owned by Graham Cappell ( he bought i

Finally managed to get the car re-registered in the UK . I had forgotten to tell  HMRC that I'd " imported " the car so my first DVLA attempt was rejected . Sorted the NOVA and have today received a v

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1 hour ago, Djs44 said:

Roo 

You'd like a go in this .... 

IMG_1371.jpg

I had a go in it many years ago when it lived in Switzerland, before it was restored. It's DB3S/5 which originally had a fiberglass body when first built. Tell the owner the front side marker lights are wrong, that will wind him up a bit! Aston Works screwed up when they rebuilt it even though I pointed out their error when the car was still in bare metal.

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53 minutes ago, v8vantage said:

I had a go in it many years ago when it lived in Switzerland, before it was restored. It's DB3S/5 which originally had a fiberglass body when first built. Tell the owner the front side marker lights are wrong, that will wind him up a bit! Aston Works screwed up when they rebuilt it even though I pointed out their error when the car was still in bare metal.

 

Just now, Djs44 said:

 

Respect ! 
I have only sat in it . Would love a drive. What a car.

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Extremely well balanced to drive and they do lovely 4 wheel drifts around corners when hammered. Have driven about half a dozen over the years on both track and road, quite a few mates have them in their collections. One of my all time favorite cars. My Aussie special drives just as nicely but does lovely tail slides when provoked as it's lighter than the DB3S. I taught my son to drive in mine when he turned 16. I gave him my "JPS" when he graduated engineering school with a perfect score in every subject. He lets me drive it sometimes!

 

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5 hours ago, Djs44 said:

Not sure what to do with the sunroof. A couple of parts are missing from it but I imagine putting a new roof section in is not cheap? 

Any good fiberglass shop can fill in the sunroof, much easier than welding in a section on a metal bodied car. Best to do it now with the body off, makes it easier to flip upside down and laminate inside the cabin. There's a few threads on the forum of people who have done it and explain what's involved.

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5 hours ago, Fridge said:

I can recommend Kiley Clinton in Digbeth, Birmingham for steering rack work.

They are ex-Burham staff who manufactured the original.

 

https://www.kileyclinton.com/

Thanks Dave , I'll give them a go 

56 minutes ago, v8vantage said:

Any good fiberglass shop can fill in the sunroof, much easier than welding in a section on a metal bodied car. Best to do it now with the body off, makes it easier to flip upside down and laminate inside the cabin. There's a few threads on the forum of people who have done it and explain what's involved.

One of the body shops I've talked with won't do it as they say it sinks over time and will become visible ...

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Have a look at this thread: 

You may want to contact Changes and get his opinion on replacing the sunroof. He's a whizz with fiberglass repairs.

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I did a sunroof in my old S1 TNR160R, it was ok to do but my personal advice would be to go bigger cutting the roof out to about 2” from edges like I did or do the whole section. 
If I was doing it again I would do the whole panel although in fairness I’ve seen the car several times at shows and you wouldn’t know after all these years.

64F8C5A0-D268-4C9B-BACD-736135564B82.thumb.jpeg.8b48f8c5b6690768dc0ee939e9d600c4.jpeg
When I bought it 

382809AB-7707-4454-85C2-EEA9F01145A6.thumb.jpeg.3c92a4340858986953ae588da3bf3e27.jpegPrepped for paint
68D89587-3EDD-47A1-82E6-45817CAFA1A8.jpeg.5c8841e5e92043abd94c20a5840c8cbb.jpegWhen I sold it, now in Tartan trim although was marcasite originally.

Dave :) 

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Do or do not, there is no try! 

 

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I keep finding things that are stressing me because I don't know what they are ..... so tonight's help me question is - what are the strips of steel with welded on bolts for as per the pic, one each side ?

Incidentally it is nice to find bits of the car with the chassis number written on such as the rear bulkhead and the door trims . 

InkedIMG_2962_LI.jpg

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Some good pics of the fully “dressed “ chassis just before the body goes on would be really helpful.

 

Took the fuel tanks out today , surprising straightforward standing in the engine bay . Tanks look like new inside with no exterior rust so that’s good .Will paint the outside and put them back in.Is there a better foam that people use that doesn’t retain moisture ?

Wiper motor and some brackets removed  ,speedo cable and handbrake to remove tomorrow . Then the air intakes (how do you get the elephant’s truck off the intakes ?) b post trims and one quarter light leaving the screen and the can’t rails 

Then I can start or the rear axle/ take the engine and gearbox out. 👍🏻

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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The only thing I'd add to @LOTUSMAN33's comments is the insulation on the chassis. I chose to use TrimFix spray glue to fix good quality closed cell foam to the underside of the body shell tunnel, which had been prepared whilst it was still on the dolly.

My thinking being that this could be a lot thicker than thin Dynomat Butyl covering, which could in time serve as a rust trap due to allowing dampness to be retained after a drive in moist atmosphere.

It's down to personal choice. You could do both, though the gap isn't big, but it's big enough. I forget what thickness of closed cell foam I used, but it's the same as used elsewhere. Including on the top of the front chassis 'T' shaped cross-member.

TrimFix glue is great, as it allows 30-60 seconds of positioning before it sets. Others don't and make this process difficult and messy.

I've found that the basic S1, and no doubt S2, needs more sound proofing that later series cars enjoy. I know some folk have used pipe insulation on the through chassis cooling pipes, which is quite interesting, and something that could be considered, as the cabin, especially without AC, is very hot in the summer.

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5 hours ago, Djs44 said:

.Is there a better foam that people use that doesn’t retain moisture. 

 

I used non absorbent closed cell foam gym/exercise mat.

DSC_0471.JPG

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1 hour ago, Steve V8 said:

I used non absorbent closed cell foam gym/exercise mat.

DSC_0471.JPG

Yup. Cheap as chips too. I bought 1m sq for a few quid.

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Hi Simon. Sorry for the intrusion but I happened across this forum and saw the picture of the blue esprit D74POD. This was my Dads actual esprit back in the 80s. Would be great if you could send me some good pics of it so I can show the old man. Can't believe its still in existence. My dads best car ever. If you can please email me at [email protected] Many thanks. Kit

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@Lotusman33 that "late S1" chassis uses an early S1 heater matrix "cold" feed pipe arrangement. As does mine. I assume it had a single heater matrix pipe running through the chassis.

 

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