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Question - I have all the rear suspension parts - is it preferable to wait until I have the engine and gearbox to fit the radius arms/ rear shocks and hubs or can I fit them now ??

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Fitted my suspension first as that was ready and at least it got rid of a few more parts. Easy enough sliding the transaxle in after and lining up. 

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I fitted the suspension, though the drive shafts could not be connected. I used tie-wraps to hold the two sides together.

I have heard Elan(?) drive shafts (or something) can bridge the gap temporarily.

Then drop the engine and gearbox in to the chassis as one unit. Easy. Photos on my restoration thread.

 

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Rear suspension fitted - coil overs and new old stock radius arms . Coil overs have a slight interference with the uprights so that will need a bit of fettling. Short of a few washers and nuts - one of my on-going frustrations throughout the project . 

Engine mapping has progressed - making 200lb ft of torque at 5000 rpm . Limiter will be at 8000 rpm , hopefully some power runs tomorrow . 

Rear suspension.jpg

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Looks like excellent work, have you decided against the rubber spring top mounts and gone solid aluminium machined replacements?

Looks smart but not sure of the impact on the cars set up as not seen that done before. They will last longer.

Nice job on the galvanised radius arms 👍🏻
 

Dave :) 

Do or do not, there is no try! 

 

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Ok I’ll have a look at that, I’m sure Mike has tested them and they are good but hope they aren’t more for track/fast road use than general road driving. They certainly look smart though.

Do or do not, there is no try! 

 

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The alloy spacers will be fine, just might transmit noise. Give 'em a go, not terribly hard to change if you fancy that. Don't recall the general spec of your engine, surely must be the 2.5 capacity at that torque output?

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8 hours ago, drdoom said:

The alloy spacers will be fine, just might transmit noise. Give 'em a go, not terribly hard to change if you fancy that. Don't recall the general spec of your engine, surely must be the 2.5 capacity at that torque output?

drdoom - yes its a Lotusbits 2.5l engine with steel crank and rods and his rally spec cams .Still running carbs which is what is causing some of the delay on the dyno - Mike normally runs these cams with injection. 

I have kept the original engine, which had been partially dismantled before I got it, in case at some stage it needs to be returned to standard . 

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  • Gold FFM

I have this exhaust - it sounds really great - apparently it is bit of a pig to fit though - tolerances are v small - I also put some heat wrap around the chassis tubes as it passes very close and tends to cook any paint off quite quickly. 

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For heat wrap I used high temperature matting secured by 3M HT adhesive foil and clips. Also around engine mount on that side.

For former I figured on it being a serviceable item. Unless you want trouble. I do not see this as a fit and forget solution. Think Space Shuttle silicone tiles.....

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