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US plating is good (cadmium), as they have lesser ecological restrictions. I agree yellow passivation won't last sadly without the added protection.

Though mine on my 1960's classic has lasted well in 14 years.

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That's number 82 back from the paintshop today, looks achingly good when it's that shiny. 

I recently purchased JPS no. 44 .The car has been off the road since 1993 . I managed to trace quite a bit of history from the posts on here - at one point it was owned by Graham Cappell ( he bought i

Finally managed to get the car re-registered in the UK . I had forgotten to tell  HMRC that I'd " imported " the car so my first DVLA attempt was rejected . Sorted the NOVA and have today received a v

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I would not write off plating as a protection, as with paint there are good paint finishes and some not so good. I use a local plater for all non standard bolts and brackets and a local powder coater for other parts such as suspension and brackets that were originally painted. The powder coating work is very good and long lasting,the plating is ok but the finish on these brakes is in a different league to my local plater. As Fridge says, the old Cadmium plating was pretty good stuff as long as you weren't a plater, nowadays we rely on zinc with a straw coloured passivation.  I actually called the company to tell them what a great job they had done and I don't do that very often. The plater they use does work for JCB and Bentley and I just wish they were not so far away. 

So, the point of this post is, not all plating is bad and it has a place in classic restoration and personally I wouldn't paint a classic cars brake calipers unless they were that way originally but then I do admit to being a bit anal!

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Heres some of my callipers, plated and then painted over. They still look the same now, despite brake dust and water. The paint can easily be touched up if needed. The plated parts on my S1 have already started to degrade after four years in a garage with a dehumidifier and heating. Tricky choices have to be made when restoring with frequently no right or wrong answers. I use my cars in the wet as well as dry. The aluminium of the engine is also starting to discolour, once upon a time it was pretty close to mint. Maybe silver engine paint is a more robust finish. Even ACF50 can protect it indefinately.7D29CE0F-93DC-4FCC-818D-2007232DB037.thumb.png.d2a74e01eb9f665580391f642b647e05.png

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Classicar Automotive. Easily found on Google for phone and address. Lots of positive independent feedback on the Google search too. Regards 

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Classicar did my front calipers maybe 20 years ago.   Plating is still pretty good (maybe that was cad back then?).   Anyway, my car is not 'pampered' and has done many 1000's of miles since then, so I can vouch for their work. 

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That's good to know @910Esprit

As I said earlier, my front calipers in my 1960's car (drums on the rear) are still in good shape many years later. And they're realitively exposed behind wire wheels.

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There are still a few platers in the UK that do aircraft work. They specialise in cad plating for the industry. I would check to see if they are willing to do car parts. Cad plating is far superior to zinc plating for corrosion protection. It is also an ideal base to powder coat over. 

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Does anyone on here know the specific paint code colour for the alloys on a JPS Commemorative Esprit please? 

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I can't find the definitive answer but it might be one of these...

 

88 Esprit NA, 89 Esprit Turbo SE, Evora, Evora S, Evora IPS, Evora S IPS, Evora S IPS SR, Evora 400, Elise S1, Elise S1 111s, Evora GT410 Sport

Evora NA

For forum issues, please contact the Moderators. I will aim to respond to emails/PM's Mon-Fri 9-6 GMT. 

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  • Gold FFM

I am not sure of the exact ref number but I used Suzuki Mars Gold Z2V  F8518 by Dupont and looked same as OEM. There are a few different shades i.e 7ZL instead of Z2V I believe

However best test yourself first. Or get the actual alloys you have paint matched

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Burg - you are confusing my JPS thread and giving the impression that my car is considerably further ahead than it is by showing your progress . You are depressing me :) lol 

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Haha, sorry Djs I did think that but then we all need a bit of inspiration from time to time. Good to see them both coming along, maybe get them together when they are finished although I suspect budget limitations may slow my progress. Keep up the work 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Nothing major to report on mine . I’ve had new joints in the driveshafts and that’s it . I’m expecting most bits to start arriving at the end of the month including the engine ,so hope to be able to start progress again in May . 

5D464AAF-B0E5-48EA-B0D7-94071D203F13.jpeg

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Decided that although the chassis looks fine and dandy , with everything else I am doing to the car it would be a bit short sighted ( which i am .. ) to not have the chassis checked for twist etc . I know the car had an accident at sometime as one lower link was bent and a track rod and also it has a rear quarter grafted on ( which I hadn't noticed until the slight difference side to side was pointed out by the body magician . 

So I'll strip the front down and get it checked and powder coated . 

Mmmm - going backwards ...

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Don't powder coat the chassis and running gear. Just sayin'......

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Have you had problems with powder coating then? Works for me if done well, after all, it is only paint that is baked on, my powder coater always applies a zinc base coat for chassis components and I've never had an issue.  Not as good as hot galvanising for long term protection but then not many of these cars will be subjected to severe weather conditions.

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5 minutes ago, Burg57 said:

Have you had problems with powder coating then? Works for me if done well, after all, it is only paint that is baked on, my powder coater always applies a zinc base coat for chassis components and I've never had an issue.  Not as good as hot galvanising for long term protection but then not many of these cars will be subjected to severe weather conditions.

Yes, I've seen it fail after just a few years of use, and dry storage of 12 years. Some of peeled off like egg shell. This may have been down to the quality of the preparation, or because the powder coating was done on a old metal structure that has inherent aged welds and such like, which are by the very nature of entropy are degrading with the passage of time.

I'm sure with very careful preparation of a structure that is in good condition to begin with powder coating will last well. However, I'm sure we've all seen the episode of Wheeler Dealers with the TVR Cerbera with the original chassis that had been powder coated originally and needed redoing.

Since re-coating a powder coated chassis requires another complete strip down I'd say it's not worth it, whereas a very good prep and paint can have local repairs at a later date without all that re-work.

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Nothing wrong with powder coating if done right. It's all in the prep and a good undercoat to powder coat over. Find the right shop for the job and you'll have no problems.

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Interesting, my experience is the same as V8. A small quality powder coating shop will produce far better results than OE finish from 30plus years ago as materials have changed and they are not working to fine budget constraints. Additionally, if you do get a chip on a powder coating finish then a local refinish at a later date with a different product is simple and effective, no need to remove the whole lot and start again. I did find a partial flaking of powder coating on an Elan chassis that had been powder coated in the past but that was a simple job of local repair to remove the loose paint and refinish with normal paint to replicate the original appearance. 

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You have described the point I was making @Burg57 By doing such a local repair using a different finishing material it will likely not match. Whereas with a paint... that's done every day of the week.

However, each to their own. As I said originally, like with paint, it's all down to the surface preparation and application, but I found that refinishing a previously powder coated subframe with Smoothrite in 2008 it still retains its restored finish many miles and smiles later, with a simple periodic touch-up during the past 12 years and counting.

Recently there was an interesting and similar debate on here about plating. Sadly, in the UK finding a good supplier of silver and yellow passivation can be difficult. With cadmium plating restricted to our pal's in other parts of the world with less stringent ecological constraints, or those with contacts in the commercial defence sector that are still allowed to use it (apparently).

For us owners in the UK, with any of these finishing techniques, they'll need to stand up to the vagaries of our weather and road conditions if our vehicles are to be driven regularly. As I'm sure none of us are under the illusion that our pristine restored cars will retain the box fresh look for long.

Perhaps as with powder coating, paint technology moves at a pace also.

Personally, for these reasons I'd leave powder coating to areas with better, less complex assemblies and access.

Edited by Fridge
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  • 2 weeks later...

I stripped the chassis down , removed all suspension and it has gone to be checked and all suspension components cleaned etc . 

The body should be going off in a couple of weeks or so - I can't wait . 

I think I'm around 4-6 weeks off the engine etc and chassis coming back so will then have plenty to do . 

Leather re trim is about to start, probably  ( all stripped  out of the car) . 

The initial gold trim samples are very disappointing - I haven't spoken to the supplier yet but I can't understand why they sent them , 

So next will be  a van load of parts arriving and me getting stuck into  bolting it all together  . 
I can't wait ! 

In the meantime I'll be tending to  my vegetables . 🤷‍♂️

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