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22 hours ago, LOTUSMAN33 said:

Yes all normal, not ideal and can be improved but the way lotus did it.

Dave :) 

Could you elaborate?

I can start to gather the kit.

Is the dowel / hook assembly original for mounting the trim panels?

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A short update that covered a huge amount of work, all of Saturday pretty much. Some extra work due to the fact that I use the car to store stripped items inside itself due to space limitations and th

Some pics of the car in question with black front spoiler. Pete  

Really sorry to be so late to the party - going back to the question on page 2 about the front spolier, here is another pic.  Basically it was just masked at the line where the section from the front

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Hey Jon

Yes all original, it works well. I don’t use self tapers so tend to go with nutserts or stainless screws and nylocs. It’s all hidden behind the capping rails. 
Don’t forget to use sealant on anything penetrating the body to the cabin area.

 Dave :) 

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Do or do not, there is no try! 

 

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On 09/11/2020 at 22:26, LOTUSMAN33 said:

Hey Jon

No issues filling the aerial hole if done properly and glassed.

Replace the screen if delaminated

Bonus if the tanks are salvageable but give them a good check on the base as they do end up with tiny holes/corrosion.

Yes wood is correct behind header rail.

The end cap pops off the stalk allowing it to spin, there’s a spring inside.

Defiantly replace the cooling pipes.

You can put leather filler on the steering wheel, it’s very effective.
Try to get an original air box if you can to reduce fire risk.

Dave :)  

Thanks for the advice regards the stalk, a very quick win!

All the pipes are going to be replaced while the body is off. 
 

I’d also like to pressurise the whole thing while the body is off as per one of the other threads and leave it to ensure no leaks.

Is there a benefit to using stainless steel as opposed to aluminium for the pipes?

I’m also considering laying the pipes for the heater matrix but capping them both ends and just fitting an electric heater in the same space. I’ve had 2 cars where this component have me a massive problem, one was an S2. It was actually the chassis through hole pipes that gave up the ghost and I ran the car with no heat for a while after looping them back in the engine bay.

I’d leave everything in place to make it reversible. Has anyone done this?

A U.K. firm makes them but they speak of uprating the alternator (I’d also add better relay and wiring provision as part of the loom revision).

Fridge your matrix rebuild was very comprehensive, this would be just fabricating a couple of brackets instead:

https://www.demon-tweeks.com/demon-tweeks-12v-600w-ducted-electric-cab-heater-tsddech/?istCompanyId=a2904180-3a7d-4e56-b876-cf81c9512180&istFeedId=0f6db192-3a9a-4369-b1f8-79615c622f96&istItemId=wptrlqrll&istBid=t

Hot On / Off then just fresh air vents as needed. Bad idea?

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There are probably more cons than pros to fitting stainless steel coolant pipes over than the standard, readily available alloy pipes. Namely the cost and increased weight. Certainly CJB wouldn't be impressed. 😆

The heater box is an interesting prospect, and has certain benefits, since the Esprit is almost built around it, and it's not exactly the most efficient design. Even my 1961 sports car has a better and effective solution. So adding an on/off valve would be a good modification to the standard set-up. I know of at least one restorer that's done that. Running a control cable back into the cabin and fitting a valve switch under the dashboard.

The problem I have with the electrical solution is a means of directing the air flow, which my brief inspection of its design cannot fathom. So, it would need to replicate the controls. I'm not sure that function can be accommodated. Fitting into an empty original heater box is not practical.

You need to return to my previous statement when looking at the cons of this option. That is the car is built around the heater box. So reversing this decision post-restoration and refitting the original heater box would be very difficult.

To answer your question about power requirements, I would suggest upgrading the alternator anyway. Which is useful if upgrading the cooling fans. I bought a 65W alternator (standard is 45W I believe), and this works well. Though being aftermarket, and the fact I've only ran it for 2,600 miles, the jury is still out as to its longevity...

My advice is to pressure test/renew the heater matrix, and refit it into the heater box. Ideally rebuilding the baffles with new closed cell foam to help seal the internal compartments. Then fitting the on/off valve which will at least isolate the heater completely during warm weather, as per other cars. Afterall, it's a pleasant, inexpensive mini-project to undertake on long winter evenings.

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Thanks, didn’t consider how difficult it would be if I changed my mind tbh on the heater and wanted to put it back.

Noted regards the tube material, I’d take a penalty if it meant they outlasted the car I think. Maybe it’s having emptied previous cars of cold cocoa and the dread of what the insides would look like, but I’ll be keeping up to this one so maybe less relevant regards corrosion. If the pipes are easily available, that’s another plus.

I’ll definitely buy 65W alternator, driving home on a cold night was often like that scene managing the current draw in Apollo 13 and choosing between freezing to death or getting hit as you couldn’t have both lights and heat at the same time!

Regards the heater box.....

Looking at the parts manual, I’d make a fixed manifold and the only control would be over 3 stage fan speed and heat on / off.

It might also replace the first stage air fan in the front but I need to dig deeper and check that.

The air would always point up and down, screen and feet as there would be no flaps to alter it.

The dash sliders would stay but be inoperative unless I could rig cold position as off and hot position as on with a hidden micro switch for the heater element.

Hopefully the original fan switch could be used for fan stage. I’d get a bigger relay. The rewire will need to cover all this anyway.

I think that this replacement would be more easily removable if it failed as it’s smaller (and replaced with similar), but noted regards the huge work needed to reintroduce the original.

I’d fit isolators on feed and return on the engine bay probably if I keep it original, not so much for the heat in summer but in case of a leak to save the job of looping the circuit back while access is easy.

If I go all in and think ‘sod it’ regards the next owner, I’ve got the option to leave the pipes out, cap or loop the feed at the engine and save a bit of weight.

I do recall using the heater in summer to bleed a bit of excess heat off on long runs though but the set up was 30 years old so I’m hoping for slightly lower running temp.

Has anyone fitted a subsidiary electric water pump on a related note?

 Had one of these and it was great at getting the heat out of the car after stopping (not a Lotus). There could be space near the swan tube.

Thanks for the advice again Fridge.

 

 

 

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Pleased to see your enthusiasm abounds for the car, Jon, and suggest you direct some of it to time in review of your fellow adventurers' postings in this forum over the years. The insights to be had there are numerous and I continue to sift through them routinely for guidance. Be assured that questions for which I may be of help will always be welcome, in any case.

Cheers

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Yea, thank you, I need to read up on the recent restorations more deeply and try and benefit from these in terms of saving time.

I’ve dipped in and out but it’s different when you start to attack the same jobs yourself. There are a lot more S2 projects now completed which is a massive help.

I’m speaking to all the specialists in different areas also ahead of deciding where to send what so as not to have big gaps waiting for major components (thanks Dave). Some are booked out for 8 months so it’s pretty sobering how far behind I could fall, as I have to be ruthless with time on this.

Much appreciated.

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According to the above, from 1978, there are 28 taxed cars on the road and 33 on a Sorn.  Because the S1 was phased out in 1978 and the s2's were phased in, does anyone know how many of each there are for that year? 

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3 hours ago, williamtherebel said:

According to the above, from 1978, there are 28 taxed cars on the road and 33 on a Sorn.  Because the S1 was phased out in 1978 and the s2's were phased in, does anyone know how many of each there are for that year? 

I don't think we do. I've certainly never seen a figure mentioned in any of the records.

Besides, these figures aren't great as DVLA registrations do not force the registerer to name their car correctly. Though luckily for us S1 owners the 1976 & 1977 figures will be accurate if the car's were taken off the road from 1998 (when SORN became compulsory). Meaning other S1s will exist but simply not SORN'd or registered.

The S2 was introduced after the 1978 summer shutdown at Lotus Cars. So half a years production may be a good guess.

Someone may know, or have worked it out.

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Had a great day after collecting the rest of the car assessing what’s what’.

Couple of questions.

Can the damage to the front bumper be repaired with plastic welding?

Cracked both sides, crease on the front, GRP repair for the lamp (which I’m less fussed about but will tidy it if the bumper is economically worth saving).

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Sorting various bits and consolidating them into boxes so I can access them as I go through. I’m right for space so need to manage it carefully. I’ve had these boxes for years so bought another batch for this job. About £15 each but made just down the road from me. Kept the outer cardboard in case I need them later as the body comes off for suspension and stuff....

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I’m loathe to replace these delicate but cracked items. Anyone any success with plastic welding companies? I’m balancing keep stuff original but not paying more to repair what’s readily available.

Sad the front door triangle but has a crack, ditto the lamp surrounds.

They’ll go back on initially so as not to delay the car going back together hopefully...

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Rear lights were missing some bolts and some pieces rattling inside them. The bezels have been remounted. Again will ideally save these if I can....

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