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ABS parts are easy to repair. Go to your nearest DIY store and get some black ABS cement used for black ABS water pipes, works a treat. You can also use a heat gun to carefully warm up the ABS parts and straighten them out before repair.

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A short update that covered a huge amount of work, all of Saturday pretty much. Some extra work due to the fact that I use the car to store stripped items inside itself due to space limitations and th

Some pics of the car in question with black front spoiler. Pete  

Really sorry to be so late to the party - going back to the question on page 2 about the front spolier, here is another pic.  Basically it was just masked at the line where the section from the front

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Digging further found the rear LOTUS letters, some not original.

Ah well.

Then much to my delight, a small bag with a full set of new letters in...

Rested them on the door handle surround with a token rusted self tapper for full Lotus effect....

 

 

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Seats have had a retrim and look OK, a bit overstuffed as some do. There’s a slight tear in one sadly, but I’m thinking of keeping them as is, maybe colouring them really deep grey / brown at this stage. Hope the year can be mended...

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I fitted a new front bumper and it works really well, and in some ways better than the original one. However, some folk find the profile of the new one means that it doesn't fit against the body shell very well. So, with relatively minor damage, and to save on the cost I'd look to repair the bumper.

The inside fixing is an easy reinforcement job and can be alleviated by using a thin penny wash under the bolt head.

Possibly the headlamp masks too, depending on how bust they are overall. Though new ones don't break the bank, everything adds up I suppose.

Similarly the inside buttress vent surround things.

The 'A' pillar trim is unfortunate as it may be more obvious. Difficult to make out from the photo. The remanufactured ones are oversized.

None of the tools look original, but difficult to say about the spanners without detail. They should be T/W Superslims I expect.

I wouldn't through away anything until you've completed a restoration. Especially one bought as parts.

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Yes, will keep everything, even the self tappers. Made an exception for these horrors though, straight in the bin...

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I don’t suppose these would have been an option?

I’ve not determined where they were fit, don’t mind them so much if they are discrete....

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28 minutes ago, Fridge said:

I fitted a new front bumper and it works really well, and in some ways better than the original one. However, some folk find the profile of the new one means that it doesn't fit against the body shell very well. So, with relatively minor damage, and to save on the cost I'd look to repair the bumper.

The inside fixing is an easy reinforcement job and can be alleviated by using a thin penny wash under the bolt head.

Possibly the headlamp masks too, depending on how bust they are overall. Though new ones don't break the bank, everything adds up I suppose.

Similarly the inside buttress vent surround things.

The 'A' pillar trim is unfortunate as it may be more obvious. Difficult to make out from the photo. The remanufactured ones are oversized.

None of the tools look original, but difficult to say about the spanners without detail. They should be T/W Superslims I expect.

I wouldn't through away anything until you've completed a restoration. Especially one bought as parts.

I’m not averse to replacing where appropriate versus hours patching the original items. If the option for a plastic welder is there though, I’ll definitely explore it. Thanks for the suggestion regards ABS glueing  V8, but I’m looking for a full knitted plastic weld otherwise I’ll replace the parts....

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Two sets of lights came with the car, one set don’t seem related to this car, the other correct set the lenses are busted but I see these are available as spares so I’ll get these on order...

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Thank you for the advice Fridge, packed the rear screen in the material the storage boxes came in, will strengthen the corners using card....

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These alternative lights don’t even fit the apertures, I’ll drop them back with the previous owner next time I see him  along with a spanner I found among the boxes.

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22 hours ago, JonSE said:

Two sets of lights came with the car, one set don’t seem related to this car, the other correct set the lenses are busted but I see these are available as spares so I’ll get these on order...

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Thank you for the advice Fridge, packed the rear screen in the material the storage boxes came in, will strengthen the corners using card....

 Notice how one has a silver painted band around the base... Is that correct?

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Hi Rolls,

I don’t know, thought I had a spare set here but I think fridge is correct someone got mixed up and ordered something that doesn’t fit, if this is the one you are referring to below...or it could be the angle of the photo....the one out of the bumper above is much smaller than the one in the bumper and seems not to line up in any way.

The correct (?) ones I have are very sad, but new lenses and a make over will bring them back hopefully.

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Hi Rolls,

I don’t know, thought I had a spare set here but I think fridge is correct someone got mixed up and ordered something that doesn’t fit, if this is the one you are referring to below...or it could be the angle of the photo....the one out of the bumper above is much smaller than the one in the bumper and seems not to line up in any way.

The correct (?) ones I have are very sad, but new lenses and a make over will bring them back hopefully.

Stuff like this that’s accessible I want back on the car and working ASAP, including the rear lights, as I don’t want to delay the reassembly for items I can easily replace later.

One exception is I may really tidy the lift motors as they are visible and an assembly job I’d just like to do once!

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Door cards had bigger speaker apertures cut in to otherwise original backs. A cream leather insert has been let into the original card middle.

The binnacle has been cut to allow a quick start flick switch function as mentioned, so I’ll probably patch this.

I may just refine the binnacle surface and paint it matte black as opposed to trying to recreate the factory finish with a covering once repaired and refurbished. Binnacle will need to come out because of wiring and I’d like to sort the instruments and get it back to black facia / close as possible to the original look. I’ll probably put speaker grilles in to cover the holes that are same colour to mask the size on the original build up as it seems such a shame to lose the original.

The mirror controls are present but the mirrors are long gone, ideally I’ll put S1 mirrors on both doors if the reproductions are still available.

The dash covering is OK but there are issues with the glove box area and while the screen is out, I may as well address anything that needs to be done trim wise in this area (otherwise I’d be happy just sorting the seats and binnacle tbh and leaving as much original as possible with a good clean).

May recolour all the cream leather to a dark choccy / black colour to mute it down a little, maybe replacing the pillar cover leather etc as they are more accessible down the line.

Sad to note the car has aftermarket belts and the Kangol belt circuit won’t work, can see any evidence of occupancy sensing on the new stalks or evidence of the loom near where they used to be.

Is it accepted you lose the function with new belts or is there a way round it?

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12 minutes ago, Fridge said:

Kangol belt webbing can be remade. I've the supplier on file. Near London M25.

Ah, but the whole Kangol set up is long gone, all looks to be generic after market belt / buckles now.

I don’t reckon I can find the Kangols looking back on other peoples posts.

If I have to have replacements, is there  a way these could maintain the belt light circuit?

This is the type it has now....

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Thanks, quick scan on eBay and there are several options regards new units with micro switches / NOS Kangol etc.

So I’ll be able to get the function back at least, not overly fussed about them being Kangol (but now I know I don’t have them.....🤣)

On a serious note, I’m going to check the sill mount plate and maybe replace them with a much longer bracket.

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Sill mounts I’m not sure about, but I’ll take the sills off further down the line or remove enough fastenings to get a new longer plate in. The hole cut for the handbrake I’ll keep but fabricate a better plate to cover it, it just had a piece of fibre board covering it. Ideally I’ll mount both onto one long plate to spread the stress across a much wider area.

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May as well take off the whole sill.

My plates were great, but it helps with the paintwork finish to remove the sills and prepare them separately.

If required, new plates are available from SJ Sportscars.

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On 12/11/2020 at 17:45, LOTUSMAN33 said:

Love the blue Pete, what colour code is yours L15?

Yours looks sleeker and lower 
 

I remember Foxy, nice car that was 👍🏻
Dave :) 

No idea @LOTUSMAN33. 20 years ago I asked for it to be painted Essex Blue. That, it is definitely not despite the leftover tin of paint saying it is. Hoping it's Lagune Blue as that's the next rattle can I have to try on a front spoiler I'm repairing. Already tried Bermuda Blue and it's too dark like the Essex.

Think it's just the angle of dangle of the photo. Foxy is nice and low too...

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Pete '79 S2

LEW Miss September 2009

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Pete if you take it to a paint supplier they use a Spectrophotometer to determine the paint make up, I have done this for years getting accurate touch up paints mixed. Most recently I did my JPS as even black has loads of variations. They usually mix a can up for under £20 unless something really fancy.

I love the shade of your car so will be very interested to know what they come up with if you go down this route.

Dave :) 

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Do or do not, there is no try! 

 

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Had an hour tonight looking further at the instruments and thinking what to do / when.

The mask is long gone and covered with leather (quite a neat job but no fixings holding it in, it just pushed out from behind), none of the heater controls connect to the heater at the matrix end (one of the arms is snapped, the other cable is just loose), lots of subsidiary after market switchery, loom cut to accept replacements and the metal backing plates cut to accept to later bigger switch types.

Ignition barrel deleted, race car start panel installed onto the side of the binnacle with jump wires from where the ignition barrel was.

Ive pulled the leather cover from what I believe is the original mounting plate for the instruments just to see if the plastic mask was still there but it’s gone.

Nut holding the wheel has been scored across I think to prevent it working loose, not sure if this is the original way it was done?

Can’t see any mechanical self cancelling turn pegs on the back of the steering wheel for the indicators.

Stalks look a little flimsily fixed but think this is original. A non original trim cover had been fit over the column that looked good, but I think it would have interfered with the indicator action and is too small to cover an ignition barrel anyway.

Gauges are a little rusty on the back, Rev counter glass looks like it may be damaged and the bezels could do with refurbing. The rheostat also seems to have been mounted under the binnacle and a rough replacement fills its space, the fibre optic lighting has seen better days!

I’m keen to make this part of the car as good as possible as it will where I spend the most time looking!

I’m now debating:

Leaving it well alone until the rest of the car is up and running then returning to sorting it (as part of the electrics overhaul) when I know what works and what doesn’t.

Carefully disassembling it and having the gauges all refinished and the binnacle tidied (ahead of the electronics overhaul, but risking more time and more complexity getting the car going again). I’d then need to reattach the loom as it stands back in or having an expert go through it at that point (which is my plan when I’ve a completed vehicle to hand over that needs electrically reconnecting).

Going full circle on my idea to replace the deactivated heater matrix (now it appears to be isolated) with a basic electric heater in its place and keeping water out of the cabin.

The switch plates I’ll either replace or refurbish based on costs for this.

There are 3 auxiliary switches I’ll plan for, one for a set of potential fog lights which I may never fit but would like provision for, one for cooling fan override and one to isolate the coil as a means of immobilisation. These would be nowhere near the main binnacle once it’s returned to standard.

Would love to hear any thoughts on these ideas.

As rough as it is, the race car hot wire and other components all worked (in likelihood) before storage and would be one less variable that could be dealt with later once the car is mobile again (other than the heater matrix decision, which I need to sort while the body is off.....)

Having this part of the car looking original is important for me, even if the heater sliders become inactive in the dash with a new electric unit......

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