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A short update that covered a huge amount of work, all of Saturday pretty much. Some extra work due to the fact that I use the car to store stripped items inside itself due to space limitations and th

Some pics of the car in question with black front spoiler. Pete  

Far too late here -sorry!   May help in the future.  This is the tool I made to hold the hub while undoing/tightening the nuts on my Elite: It made removing/tightening the nuts pretty easy

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29 minutes ago, drdoom said:

FWIW, my rather early S2 has the metal framed 1/4 glass, there's nothing I've yet spotted which would suggest a body shell mod would have been appropriate in deleting the frames.

Thanks for confirming, I thought early S2's had S1 style rear quarterlight frames and glass.

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52 minutes ago, Fridge said:

Thanks for confirming, I thought early S2's had S1 style rear quarterlight frames and glass.

According to SJ it changed at chassis number 601G

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Lotus Esprit [meaning] a 1:1 scale Airfix kit with a propensity to catch fire

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On 04/04/2021 at 10:14, JonSE said:

Thanks Dave I’m looking to see if the S1 frames would drop into the S2 3/4 aperture. If they don’t, I’m going to live with S2 items.

Looking at your image, they may drop straight in and follow the curve...

Make sure you can get a pair of frames with the glass before you go modifying anything as they're pretty difficult to find.

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Lotus Esprit [meaning] a 1:1 scale Airfix kit with a propensity to catch fire

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As I own 601G, I can confirm this. They were a pig to remove!

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There’s quite a good guide to rear hub dismantling on the Lotus Esprit World site. Just google the task and it comes up. Quite in depth and shows how best to cut an escape route if required. I gently cut my split Olaf length ways with a view to collapsing it in the hub and it still snapped the lug or split it anyway. To be fair, it was cracked anyway which is why I was replacing it but I was going to lose the fight, sure as eggs are eggs. 
Repair effected by PNM - now perfect with all new nuts, bolts and washers 

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Thanks for that, viewed the article and with hindsight should have cracked the castle bolts while car was assembled, but the braking system was already long deactivated.

May use a local firm to carefully drill out the old stud once it’s been cut, don’t want anyone to be using a hammer anywhere near them. Article mentions the incredible fusing force the stud could have become subject to, beyond my limited capabilities to resolve at home!

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Try applying some heat.

You'll no doubt be replacing the bearings anyway.

Don't destroy that nut!

Edited by Fridge
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Nipped to the garage at lunchtime, he spent longer finding the socket than freeing up the nut! No charge as well but they get all my daily cars to spanner so happy with that.

My efforts before have created a flat on one of the wheel studs......

Should I replace the total wheel carrier or have this machined / new stud added? There’s a lip behind the other side, awkward.....

Its one of the reasons I’m using specialists, my brute force blundering is ok for saving £££ on disassembly but I lack the engineering skills when it comes to reassembly or more difficult tasks....

I’ll not even attempt the NS hub, straight to the garage for same treatment.....

I’ve an engineer friend I may use to drill out the suspension stud once I’ve cut that lower arm off the hub. I’ll use a Lotus specialist to then build them back up after I’ve cleaned them.

This is a tiny amount of progress but along with getting the pedal box off the car a long time ago, means I can crack on with next stage, so really happy.

Want the chassis stripped ASAP so I can clear the garage, get stuff off for refurbishment then maybe bring the shell back in for works.....

What are the thoughts around the flat?

 

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Great result Jonathan!

As for rebuilding the hubs, pressing in new bearings may be best done professionally, but the remaining process isn't difficult. Check out that link to Lotus World mentioned above, as it takes you through step-by-step. Personally, due to the potential fragility and scarcity of the alloy hub carrier I would be reluctant to let anyone do it, as I'm sure they will not understand the problems you will face if they damage it.

I didn't warm the hub carrier and freeze the bearings, and they when in fine. But of course you'll need a press.

As for the thread damage to the wheel stud, you could try and obtain a new stud, but I think @Paul Coleman had to spend quite a bit of time tracking one down a little while ago. He may offer some relevant advice. My advice would be to run a die down it first and see how it looks then. Perhaps using a thread file too.

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Thanks Dave,

It would be the relatively local Lotus historic guy I would use for pressing new bearings in etc, I’ll see where I am after the parts are cleaned up, he knows Esprits so if it can be done without breaking, he’d be the person.

 Good advice regards that stud, hope it can be saved!

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My method for reinstall of the bearing/axle was to heat the hub carrier in the barbecue - carefully - to sub 300 F. The bearing, which had been in the freezer, was given a quick smear of Copaslip IIRC and  just dropped into place.

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There's much discussion on the use of Copaslip between steel and alloy components, specifically in areas exposed to salty water. Whereby the water could induce an electrolytic process, with the potential of creating corrosion between those two surfaces.

I'm not sure how realistic this is, given that some comments refer to the zero conductive properties of Copaslip grease.

However, given the difficulty in obtaining and fitting new alloy hub carriers I preferred to err on the side of caution and use LM grease for all of the assembly, apart from the fitting of the outer steel nuts.

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3 hours ago, JonSE said:

My efforts before have created a flat on one of the wheel studs......

Should I replace the total wheel carrier or have this machined / new stud added? There’s a lip behind the other side, awkward.....

At the risk of teaching my Grandmother to suck eggs you do know those wheel studs just push in? They are no longer available and I had to pay a million pounds to get 4 NOS ones a while back when I buggered one of mine.

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Lotus Esprit [meaning] a 1:1 scale Airfix kit with a propensity to catch fire

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The bearings are one of the easier jobs. Heat the hub and freeze the bearing, just dropped in very easily for me.

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I used coppaslip on reassembly before I read that perhaps I shouldn’t have. I wished I’d used LM as suggested above although one Lotus guru suggested the use of CERAMIC GREASE on build up. Didn’t know there was such a thing but it’s brilliant apparently. That’s what’s nice about the Forums, there are so many solutions out there

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Ceramic and Aluslyp are often used for mixed metal fixings, specifically steel to alloy, though I've never used either.

I used silicon grease when lubricating the slider pins of the Girling rear calipers. Red grease for where plastic/synthetic rubber seals are used of course.

I think it's important to note the effect lubrication can have in relation to the torque figures specified, where lubrication is not specified in the WSM.

Edited by Fridge
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