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A short update that covered a huge amount of work, all of Saturday pretty much. Some extra work due to the fact that I use the car to store stripped items inside itself due to space limitations and th

Far too late here -sorry!   May help in the future.  This is the tool I made to hold the hub while undoing/tightening the nuts on my Elite: It made removing/tightening the nuts pretty easy

Really sorry to be so late to the party - going back to the question on page 2 about the front spolier, here is another pic.  Basically it was just masked at the line where the section from the front

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You probably just need to prise open the knuckle with a screwdriver to release the steering UJ from the rack.

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The metal relay looks like it's the flasher relay for the indicators. 🙂

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It's getting there......

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Yep the silver one is the flasher unit. The other looks like a relay. I haven’t got the S2 wiring diagram, but I believe black and yellow is the cooling fan switch wires. Which is odd because I would have thought the relay would be in the front boot? Better check the diagram to confirm or look at the wire colours on the fan connectors. A plain wire coloured is a power wire and anything two coloured is a switch wire. When you want to find out what a relay does just check the wire colour against the wiring diagram. Whatever device the coloured wire ends up up tells you what the relay does. The esprit wiring is a simple as it gets. To upgrade and repair the loom the most difficult bit is knowing what crimps and connectors to use. Lots of crimpers on ebay are unfit for purpose, I got through lots before I found one that worked. Let me save you tIme and effort. Buy everything from Autosparks, especially the crimper and crimps. Its £40, but well worth the investment as it will work. They sell all the coloured wiring and loom tape. You can easily restore the loom as new for very little cost. If you haven’t used crimpers before look 9n you tube and practise on spare wires until you get the hang of it. Its is very easy to restore a loom with a little practice.  
https://www.autosparks.co.uk

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So how do you repair a frayed or damaged wire? Buy wire in the correct rating and colour coding from auto sparks. Peel the loom tape back. If the wire is heat damaged keep peeling more loom tape back and cutting the wire back until its no longer black copper, but bright and not overheated. Then join the new wire to the old with solder and tape the join. Then tape with several bands of tape along the length of the loom to hold the wire in position. Finally bind the loom with new loom tape being sure to keep the binding tight for a nice finish. Crimp a connector on the end.  Do this for all the dodgy wires, job done. 

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6 hours ago, Lotusfab said:

Yep the silver one is the flasher unit. The other looks like a relay. I haven’t got the S2 wiring diagram, but I believe black and yellow is the cooling fan switch wires. Which is odd because I would have thought the relay would be in the front boot? Better check the diagram to confirm or look at the wire colours on the fan connectors. A plain wire coloured is a power wire and anything two coloured is a switch wire. When you want to find out what a relay does just check the wire colour against the wiring diagram. Whatever device the coloured wire ends up up tells you what the relay does. The esprit wiring is a simple as it gets. To upgrade and repair the loom the most difficult bit is knowing what crimps and connectors to use. Lots of crimpers on ebay are unfit for purpose, I got through lots before I found one that worked. Let me save you tIme and effort. Buy everything from Autosparks, especially the crimper and crimps. Its £40, but well worth the investment as it will work. They sell all the coloured wiring and loom tape. You can easily restore the loom as new for very little cost. If you haven’t used crimpers before look 9n you tube and practise on spare wires until you get the hang of it. Its is very easy to restore a loom with a little practice.  
https://www.autosparks.co.uk

Thank you Fabian,

The loom is a real mess. I’ve followed your post and I’m thinking of doing as you say. A forum member was kind enough to send me an S2 wiring diagram they had fully colour coded so when I lay the loom out, I can do as you say, strip back and rebuild every single wire. There is cut after cut, dead ends, ring circuits and spurs all over this after market. Ignition barrel is gone for race car start, original switches gone and replaced with (probably better but none original) other switches in their place. I’m also considering using the glove box fully for housing the relay and fuse system and upgrading to blades. Just balancing your experience of fixing the old or going new and hoping the new loom has all the requirements as I know you spent ages on it. 
 

loom will be out of the car and ready for laying out soon, might even pass to a local auto electrical guy to chase and re terminate the whole thing after surveying with the colour diagram. 
 

Loom was partially disconnected any way but with relays etc still in situ so I don’t have the full picture of what may have worked before. The hacking for several alarm installs over the years is bewildering!

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4 hours ago, bigfella70 said:

Great to see your progress on this Jon.

Enjoyed the Delorean documtary that you mentioned, thanks for the heads up on that !

Your welcome, really enjoyed that. They really downplayed the Lotus involvement, they made a terrible car drivable by all accounts and offered to build it. I knew a race driver that knew Chapman and he always blamed the Delorean stress directly for his death, saying it was the biggest mess he’d seen. Just opinions but who knows?

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I'm quite confident that the Delorean situation was a key factor in ACBC's untimely passing. In the course of the neocon political pivot of that time interest rates were driven skyward to unheard of levels, putting enormous stress on business and individuals alike. Lotus finances were leveraged, unsurprisingly, and that would have weighed heavily on Chapman and his inner circle. Additionally, the bloody travesty of FIA suppression of the 88 would have taken its toll. A story like Delorean's, wherein a celebrated executive in dire need of financing is entrapped, illuminates what a farce the "war on drugs" has been from the off.

I'll take a Lotus over a Delorean in any case.

Cheers

p.s.  -  Jon, I'd suggest placing the fuse/relay compilation in the boot, thinking it more accessible there than in the glovebox.

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On 28/01/2021 at 06:36, Lotusfab said:

So how do you repair a frayed or damaged wire? Buy wire in the correct rating and colour coding from auto sparks. Peel the loom tape back. If the wire is heat damaged keep peeling more loom tape back and cutting the wire back until its no longer black copper, but bright and not overheated. Then join the new wire to the old with solder and tape the join. Then tape with several bands of tape along the length of the loom to hold the wire in position. Finally bind the loom with new loom tape being sure to keep the binding tight for a nice finish. Crimp a connector on the end.  Do this for all the dodgy wires, job done. 

My thoughts would be to replace any cut or damaged wire with a complete new run. I’ve got one wire that has been patched 8 times in a serial repair using different gauges, it’s a wonder the car is still with us.

Just reread your thread and your advice again above, thank you for the details regards switching and power wires etc.

Looking at the spread of relays and fuses, I think the front may be a better solution to house all these in one place in an after market module (or 2) housed in a shoe box sized unit for for the purpose as suggested. 
 

I’m just weighing up if it is cheaper to buy a whole new loom from those guys you signpost or work the one I have which will need complete tape removal then rebuilding. If I can master it, I will probably in reality redo every run in this manner and build up a new one so I’m not sure yet of which route. Doing mine would at least teach me how the electrics work in preparation for using it and I reckon I can call others in if I get too stuck.

Ideally I’d be able to put a couple of multi connectors behind the binnacle but aside from losing originality, it appeals having all the electrics in one place in the front compartment with blade fuses and modern relays. I think you determined Fabian not to bother with window relays in the end?

I’ll know more when I get the loom clear, hopefully this weekend if it goes to plan. The wiring phases me less I think than trying to source the myriad types of sockets and plugs the car uses at the utility end of the circuit (switches etc). The switches appear hard wired in some cases, others have a socket base which was the same as my other Esprit I think.

Is there any way to improve on the earthing provision? I did consider running an earth feed round the car like a ring main to branch off. There were numerous failed corroded spade connectors to chassis mounts and even localised earthing in the back to replace the daisy chains of light earths seem a better solution! 

Ideally I’d boost the wire gauge and definitely run the high drain stuff on much thicker cable, adding more relays to anything where it’s required.

I’m also going to fit a coil and fuel pump isolator switch in the cabin alongside fan override. Not too bothered about a radio really apart from the aperture for it needs something.

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With you on the notion of improved earthing, often a fail point in auto electricals which, as any mechanic will attest, are the most infernal amongst servicing concerns. At least we may be grateful that Lucas adhered to a straightforward colour code, no small contribution toward dealing with the wiring. Whatever the additions made, the harness will remain a manageable mess thanks largely to that code. Suggest one is wise to map out the entirety of the intended system in advance then proceed to modify the original harness to suit. Discretely created updates should afford improved reliability without offending the eye if done with care. Lotus DNA does not reside in such things as wiring originality.

Cheers  

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Very easy to replace individual wire runs. Once the loom tape is off you will find the wires are taped together every six inches or so. This keeps it together with the tape off. The electrics are very reliable when redone. I was sold a new loom with the wrong configuration for my S1 and ended up remaking most of it. Also the rear light wiring was too short. Autosparks are very good and have now made several Esprit looms. Personal choice really. Redoing your old one will be several hundred pounds cheaper and just as good.

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Thanks Fridge!

Very good points, seen the AutoSparks loom for the S2 and understand these are good.

Great idea regards a take off for the lights and windows, had only considered beefing the starter circuit so will do this. I may take the feed from the other end of the positive wire from the battery (starter motor?) for this.

I’m afraid the loom since you saw it has thrown up more challenges.

Regards the relays, I’d still like them at least in one location and not just self tapped into the front lip but mounted a little more neatly somehow.

I’ll see where I am when the loom is out. I think the original window and fan switches may have burned out based on your info above, there may already be subsidiary relays in place as the replacement switches look less capable.....

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As I've chronicled in earlier postings on my resto thread the Rover type switches fitted to the S2 through S3 series are quite well designed and can be restored with a little effort, as they can be fully taken apart and reassembled. Just in case those for which you might wish to purchase replacements are NLA.

Cheers 

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Thanks Dr Doom, several are absent fully but I’ll keep looking as ideally I want the original type back in the car.

Dash metal has been cut to accept replacements so someone was committed.....

Heater matrix box manifold thing now out of the car and what appears to be an associate MK3 Cavalier replacement blower unit.

I’m not an expert or anything, it just has it written on!

The replacement fan casing has been hacked about to mount to the bulkhead.

The slider controls were partially connected so even if it worked, the heat or cold output was fixed to one set of vents before.

I’m still considering a joint electric blower heater to replace the current arrangement, I won’t install this fan back in anyway in this state, I’d rehouse it as it was just held in with 2X self tappers quite loosely.

I can at least see how the airflow now comes in from the bonnet vent and down through the half in / half out the car arrangement and the water drains in case the rain gets in. Also how the air is sucked up to prevent water ingress. 

The manifold box operates easily but the usual activator stalk has broken for one of the functions.

Foam is disintegrated inside the box and it needs the strip down that I’ve viewed on here from Fridge.

I may replace the water heated radiator with a modern electric fan run on a separate circuit from the battery but embed it into the existing manifold.

Space would be tight as the original fan is outside the air manifold, but I’m also thinking of not reinstalling the 2 face level vents an S2 had (one in the binnacle and one on the dash) and deleting the apertures for these, the dash area it frees up I can install other switches of the same type I need for other functions.

The vent system would then effectively be cold or hot blown down to feet or up to windscreen.

From memory filling the heating circuit takes some doing and I’m not sure this one has seen water for quite some time. I am not keen to be back into this part of the car ever again, so going to weigh everything up. A very basic electrical heating system appeals at the moment!

Still wondering why the body has been off the car in the past and what other things I might discover, been an enjoyable few hours making progress, but keep telling myself any idiot can take the thing apart......

 

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I've never had an issue filling the cooling system Jonathan.

Bad news on the fan. Amazed it fitted. Good find at the time, as it looks similar in operation. You can buy the fans for this type of system, but you'd probably have to make the mounting for it. I'll email you a photo of what I think it would have been.

The heater box itself looks OK.

Be careful removing the plenum, as these need to go back well, without leaking!

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Thanks Fridge! Got them and it now make sense.

Two fan system gone in favour of this single fan repair, but it’s a bit Heath Robinson, which is fair enough.

Been thinking since back from the garage, I could keep all the manifold gubbins safe for future potential use and run the combined heater element / fan in the manifolds place. I’d keep forced fresh air via this system through the old bulkhead area as they can run without the element active and just deliver unheated air to the cabin.

I’d loop the engine output back on itself or T the heater water into the radiator pipes if there’s any reason to ensure the water is colder on the way back in.

I’ll see if any original fans exist to restore as is in parallel but simplifying this down to one small 2Kg box and removing a lot of the original system (reversible) does appeal at the moment for the type of use I’m going to get from the car....

Couple of versions below, one requiring water and the other just electrical......

 

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I had terrible problems filling the coolant on both the S1 and Turbo. The Turbo kept boiling the coolant out. The reason was the thermostat wasn’t opening correctly. I found a new thermostat supplier and now its perfect.

The S1 has a different setup, but also kept boiling coolant out. It seemed almost impossible to get the air out. I had to jack it on its nose very high to sort the issue. The reason the S1 was so difficult is there is no air bleed on the radiator. I plan to install one. If you radiator hasn’t got an air bleed I would add one before getting too far along.

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Thanks for this.

I’m going to fit some basic in line bleed valves in a few locations, my thoughts if I do retain the water heating would be to put one of them under the dashboard as well!

I’ll also have one fitted to the radiator top when it goes for refurb, hopefully they can just duplicate the lower drain plug for this but once car assembled going to be hard to access.

 I recall on both previous Esprits running up to temp with the caps off and trying to squeeze airlocks out all around the engine. The SE had a charge cooler system that was 2 steel expansion tanks (early SE) and the charge cooler one looked full of lovely green coolant.

Upon removal, the lower pipe was so full of corrosion, no water was getting to the impeller and it had burned itself out. Pig of an exchange job, the bore of the pipes just not meant to accommodate 15 years of actual use!

I think I ran an open thermostat in both SE and S2 upon filling to at least get fluid round and when it cooled replaced with the real ones and tipped up again.

I was filling the S2 up quite frequently at one point due to a pump seep so would also disconnect the radiator fill hose on the engine and pour neat antifreeze in to try and top it up. Remarkable amount of fluid went in but the expansion tank always seemed to settle around 2/3 full after dumping some out. 
 

One mechanic mentioned the pumps were more like weak impellers in terms of volume they shift so I did consider fitting and electric one instead, this would need to be near the fuel pump to allow a head of water. I did have one of these on a V8 engined car and it was great at taking residual heat out of the system when the engine was off.

Body is now ready for lifting, just need to carefully remove the heater plenum, windscreen motor and the bonnet catches but this isn’t holding me up.

Loom is loose ready to carefully withdraw. I’m then stuck as I need to sort some storage to allow work to continue on the 2 separate parts of the car and getting 4 people round to my house seems to be mission impossible in early 2021!

On a positive note, found my 1/4 inch extender bar wedged into the steering knuckle that I thought I’d lost. Need to tap that out from the other side and body will hopefully just lift off!

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