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Hi. Investigating a clink I get which I suspect to be a loose wooden bulkhead (Bolts that attaché to chassis). The sound deadening material is a bit shot. What are people using as a replacement? Thanks

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Many folks have 'upgraded' to the V8 type bulkhead fixings, which dig in to the plywood and don't allow the movement that creates the clunk.   SJ Sportscars sell them, possibly others.

Mine is painted plywood on the engine side.

Can I add to the above that the recommended 3 to 4mm reduction in the sleeve length usually falls below the thickness of the bulkhead plywood. As the wood is liable to further shrinking, there is a ch

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Many folks have 'upgraded' to the V8 type bulkhead fixings, which dig in to the plywood and don't allow the movement that creates the clunk.

 

SJ Sportscars sell them, possibly others.

 

https://www.sjsportscars.com/parts-and-accessories/A082A4351F.htm

A082A4351F.jpg

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Atwell Haines

'88 Esprit

Succasunna, NJ USA

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Thanks carbuff. Will keep that in mind. I got the large panel out tonight and found the 4 bolts (2 either side) bolted through the sound deadening material. Surely that cant be right?  Cant post a photo from my phone unfortunately. 
Also what is directly behind the wooden bulkhead?  Is it direct into the engine bay. Surely wood is not direct into the engine bay. Maybe a panel of fibre glass first?

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Thanks Thomas.  I didnt realise that.  I found last night a bit of decay behind the drivers seat.  Other side is a s good as new.  Certainly wont be tackling it immediately as I have just too much on at the moment.  What I did find though is the for mounting bolts that bolt through to the chassis bolted through the sound deadening material as per previous post.

How it was found.PNG

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My bolts were also bolted through the sound deadening on my S3 - mine is a very early S3  (the first one off the line) - so when I sorted this out, I cut a letter box flap in the deadening so the bolts and washers were against the wood. I also used much large washers to try and prevent them loosening off. Of course they did but it took a while (approx 6 years) - I have recently re-tightened but I will do the later car mod highlighted above at some point... 

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Thanks guys.  Just need to book my little helper (Son) to get on the other side of the bolts.  Doesnt look too bad a job.  Interestingly I also found this bolt loose.  The washer could be spun.  This is not getting replaced with stainless.  Im sure isnt helping the clonking either.

Anyone got any experience of replacing the wood?

 

IMG_2169.JPG

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Yes, those bolts are an unsightly mess. Replacing with stainless is a good idea to smarten it up. Though the "washer" is made from alloy, so only LM grease if any used at all, otherwise damp may set off a reaction. 

Be careful not to undo the other bolts at the same time, otherwise the whole assembly will come loose and fall into the well in the body shell below the fuel tank. You should be able to replace the lower one on its own.

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Hello Phil,

Somewhere in these threads, perhaps over on my restoration thread < 78070100S . . > you may find notes and photos on the effort to patch in replacement ply after having cut out the rot. I can be quite the belt and braces sort when addressing such things and preferred that approach over cutting out and replacing the bulkhead sections entirely. Given the time spent laminating and fairing in GRP reinforcement and new ply sections I'm unsure whether it was wiser to go that way rather than with neat re & re of the panels in their entirety.

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179600716_Screenshot2020-11-27at10_40_05AM.thumb.png.e73186661a0cbd6816577e27c91f79e5.pngCan I add to the above that the recommended 3 to 4mm reduction in the sleeve length usually falls below the thickness of the bulkhead plywood. As the wood is liable to further shrinking, there is a chance (with vibration) the securing nuts could work loose. I replaced mine with self-locking nuts, so it would be a simple matter of nipping them up slightly should the dreaded rattle return in future.

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20 hours ago, Fridge said:

Yes, those bolts are an unsightly mess. Replacing with stainless is a good idea to smarten it up. Though the "washer" is made from alloy, so only LM grease if any used at all, otherwise damp may set off a reaction. 

Be careful not to undo the other bolts at the same time, otherwise the whole assembly will come loose and fall into the well in the body shell below the fuel tank. You should be able to replace the lower one on its own.

Thanks guys.  

drdoom - Ill hunt out your thread.  I think I would be tempted to just go for it and do the whole panel.  Want to look into it more before considering tackling it and will have to survive at least one more summer due to my time.

Fridge - Tell me more about LM grease and your damp concerns.  I dont know about this.  I have SS washer and bolt.  Only the bolt thread would be greased so in theory will not touch the fiberglass if thats what you are getting at.  Tell me more.

Thanks

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On 24/11/2020 at 21:44, CarBuff said:

Many folks have 'upgraded' to the V8 type bulkhead fixings, which dig in to the plywood and don't allow the movement that creates the clunk.

 

SJ Sportscars sell them, possibly others.

 

https://www.sjsportscars.com/parts-and-accessories/A082A4351F.htm

A082A4351F.jpg

I have discovered my '84 Turbo does not have any tubes as described in documents available on other sites, although that is based on a V8.  Cant even find the bolts in the parts manual.  Did these 84 cars have tubes or not?  Just wondering if someones fiddled with this before.   

 

Thanks

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I think it is only the later Stephens cars which have the tubes. It is seen as a worthwhile upgrade from what the G cars came with originally. It is on my (long) list...

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