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The restoration of S1 234G


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2 hours ago, omegaman said:

Ok the S2 sender has a Value of 254 ohms when empty and 18 ohms when in the full position. Top of float to base of sender distance is 14cm when empty and 2cm when full. 

Its not perfect as it shows a small amount of fuel when empty but its fine if you're aware of that. 

Thanks for doing that :) It raises a number of questions...

1. What voltage are you running the gauge off? I was under the impression the gauges have a 10V regulator to feed them all but I could be wrong as I've never really looked.
2. The S1 sender is 345 Ohms when empty and 50 Ohms when full so it should be possible to add a bit of resistance in series with the S2 sender to see if that improves it a bit?
3. The S1 sender is about 215mm in length but the sender you have looks as though you can just lengthen the arm quite easily so that's not an issue.
4. Is the sender you have one of these as it's the only one SJ sells for the S2 by the looks of it... https://www.sjsportscars.com/parts-and-accessories/A079N6029F.htm

Thanks, Paul.

Edited by Paul Coleman

Lotus Esprit [meaning] a 1:1 scale Airfix kit with a propensity to catch fire

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The S1 gauge design doesn't need a regulator as the coil balance the same regardless. I tried at various voltages.

Yes I think it can be "Tweaked" a little with the addition of a resistor, I'll try it out and let you know. 

Yep that is the one from SJ , this is the same one but a few quid cheaper 🙂https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/smiths-top-mount-fuel-level-sensor-tb9011-cb-fs-top

 

I guess the biggest problem is the fitting in the top of the S1 tank is different.

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Wow nice work! I find it hard enough to work on my cars in the barn with a 2 post lift....always amazed by what people can achieve in a regular garage. 

All in all it doesn't look too bad, like you say though......a lot of money to put right.  I was pleasantly surprised by the state of all the metalwork on my Californian car, even the brake calipers look like new on the rear. 

 

I've never seen a Cam cover like that on an Esprit before, 

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The big problem I can see from all the pictures you have posted is the body work...

The car will obviously need taking down to the gel coat and all the fibreglass repaired and rust dealt with. This will be very time consuming and if farmed out, will cost a lot.

If you are going to do it yourself, you will need to know what you are doing and if you do, it will take months to complete (that’s assuming you are working full time on it).

While doing all this you will not be working on the mechanicals. I have done the complete bodywork for my S3 Esprit and Elite and it is a time consuming skill. But having said that very very rewarding...

 

 

 

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18 hours ago, omegaman said:

I've never seen a Cam cover like that on an Esprit before, 

No, me either. Apparently it's from an Excel so that will be coming off!

Lotus Esprit [meaning] a 1:1 scale Airfix kit with a propensity to catch fire

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Another piece of the jigsaw arrived today and means I can cross another item off the list. This is an early style vertical radiator which I'm pretty sure is correct for my car but I need to double check it against the radiator housing at the weekend to make sure...
https://i.ibb.co/QFSrZBn/100-1546.jpg

The only things I still haven't found now are the single headlamp lift mechanism and this bonnet catch...
https://i.ibb.co/KsHfpLV/100-1464.jpg

If you can help with either then please let me know.

Total spend so far £17,023.59

Lotus Esprit [meaning] a 1:1 scale Airfix kit with a propensity to catch fire

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15 minutes ago, philleech said:

I cant believe you found a set of Wolfraces... Ive been looking for nearly 20 years now!

Phil

You're not looking had enough Phil. They are about.

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11 hours ago, philleech said:

I cant believe you found a set of Wolfraces... Ive been looking for nearly 20 years now!

Phil

They're not easy to find and when you do find a set they can be expensive. I think your car had Speedlines on it from the factory and I think Dave Welhams did too? I quite like the look of the Speedlines so I would have been tempted to buy this set on eBay if I couldn't have found the Wolfrace ones... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LOTUS-ESPRIT-COMEMERATIVE-MODEL-FULL-SET-OF-ALLOYS/254120252215?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

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The Postman brought a pair of sunvisors today, thanks Dave :) They're off a later car but the frames didn't change as far as I'm aware so when they're stripped and recovered they will look the part.

100-1547.jpg

Another item crossed off the list.

 

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Again, I'm a long way off of needing one of these but whilst I saw it I thought I might as well buy it. I've gone for a red version of this stainless steel braided hose so that people can keep telling me I need to change it :)

100-1565.jpg

So that's a bit more of the kid's inheritance I've wasted.

I have a shopping list which I keep adding to that at some point I will place with SJ Sportscars. It's currently at about £8,000 but as the engine is a bit of an unknown at this point I will probably leave any engine bits off the list for now.

 

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Lotus Esprit [meaning] a 1:1 scale Airfix kit with a propensity to catch fire

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Bugger... just realised it's got the wrong PCD :( The S1 is only 100m and this one is about 107mm... so the hunt is still on...

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Would you blank and drill to the correct PCD if it’s a spare? Was considering any correct size Wolfrace wheels myself just modified for the correct PCD then powder coated chrome effect if it’s economical versus original Esprit wheels.

Another question to help me as you are ahead and have done this before.......

When you build the rolling chassis back up, do you do so with spring compressors to get correct setting and tighten the suspension joints with bushes to the final torque before body fitment or leave the nuts loose and just torque up once the body and other bits are back on and the correct weight is more or less applied?

Will you need spring compressors to get the suspension apart once the body is lifted off or is enough tension released to just undo the springs? My roofer is very busy this time of year........

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6 hours ago, JonSE said:

Would you blank and drill to the correct PCD if it’s a spare? Was considering any correct size Wolfrace wheels myself just modified for the correct PCD then powder coated chrome effect if it’s economical versus original Esprit wheels.

Another question to help me as you are ahead and have done this before.......

When you build the rolling chassis back up, do you do so with spring compressors to get correct setting and tighten the suspension joints with bushes to the final torque before body fitment or leave the nuts loose and just torque up once the body and other bits are back on and the correct weight is more or less applied?

Will you need spring compressors to get the suspension apart once the body is lifted off or is enough tension released to just undo the springs? My roofer is very busy this time of year........

I did think about re-drilling them but I would rather look for the correct wheel if I can find one.

As David has mentioned certain nuts need to be torqued with the required weight in the car (listed in the workshop manual). Spring compressors are a must - I always wince when I'm using them :)

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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

This update is for @JonSE as he will have to deal with this at some point.

I only work part-time doing 3 days a week but I still don't seem to have the time to work on this car. Instead, I seem to have become an Electrician for both my kids rewiring bits of their houses and when I'm not doing that I'm decorating at my Son's. I plan on retiring fully in the summer but if I'm going to become a full-time handyman for my kids I might just stay at work hahaha

Anyway, I have nicknamed this car 'the mongrel' as it had so many missing pieces and I think that suits it rather nicely! I haven't made a massive amount of progress but I have taken a mould off of the spare roof section I got with this car...

100-1600.jpg

It was a bit of a ropey panel as it had a few star cracks but fortunately they're towards the sides of the panel. The idea is to eventually turn the shell upside down and then clamp this panel to the roof and fill the sunroof in from the inside rather than cut a section out of the roof I got with it and graft that in...

100-1587.jpg

That way it will be easier to get the shape exactly right and I've made the external roof mould relatively thin so it has a bit of flex in it...

 100-1588.jpg

I also borrowed a pair of moulds for the front lower quarters and I've made a pair of new panels from them...

100-1582.jpg

These were a right pig to get out but they gave in in the end...

100-1590.jpg

These are going to be needed to repair the front where some Philistine had hacked it to fit an S2 spoiler...

100-1591.jpg

So I will have to trim down the repair panels and then glass them in. Here I was just fitting them to the outside of the shell to see how much had been butchered and with the light from above it becomes obvious...

100-1595.jpg

By the time they're shaped, fitted and primed nobody will ever know - unless they read this thread of course...

100-1597.jpg

This will be a lot easier to deal with when the shell is inverted but before I do that I need to spend a million hours getting rid of all the old paint. This car has had a really thick layer of polyester (by the looks of it) and then colour over the top. You can see here on the top of the front wing just how thick the paint is...

100-1574.jpg

So that will be fun stripping that. POR used to do a paint stripper that wouldn't attack gelcoat but they were banned from selling it by the health & safety brigade :(

Edited by Paul Coleman
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