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JPS # 044 body restoration. - Esprit 'Project & Restoration' Room - The Lotus Forums #ForTheOwners Jump to content


JPS # 044 body restoration.


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1 minute ago, CHANGES said:

SET UP and PLANNING.. 

Here we are at the start of the body restoration on JPS # 044 .. 

There is evidence it has had previous repair work, with a half rear quarter section put in ..  Unfortunately this has not been done that well and is very easy to see..   As we have said in previous threads , any impact repair on GRP has to be explored with consideration of how far the gel crack will travel .. The usual stress points along with the direct connected area will all crack .. 

In the case of # 044 this consideration was not taken into account and some time after the repair all the gel crack has exposed itself .. I am sure the person who did the original repair was not aware this would happen,  but as you will see from the photo's it is quite severe. 

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These cracks stop in a straight line exactly where the new section was butted up to  .. 

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I have marked the worst area's , but to be fair they are not that difficult to spot .   Stress cracks are very apparent in the seams of  the 'B' and 'A' posts , both sides , but more prominent on the N/S .. 

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The shell has also flexed on the o/s rear quarter with gel crack spreading all down that panel aswell . 

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We also have flex area's in the front compartment that will need addressing, 

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It also appears to have impact damage on the front that has not yet been repaired , but has split the front seam and caused extensive gel crack to the front panel . Both headlamp pods have seen better days and will need some creative reconstruction. 

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The only other main area to cover at this point is the roof..  It has been fitted with after market sunroof , which the customer wants removing and putting back to original .. There is also some gel crack in the usual spots. 

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I will cover all the other points as I go through the main shell , section by section . The panels will addressed later in the thread....    First job is to get that smashed screen and the old sunroof out ..    

Let the fun begin..   

 

 

This rings a bell 

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59 minutes ago, CHANGES said:

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Looks like something has taken a big bite out of that head lamp pod :shock: How did it get damaged like that there?!?!

Norfolk Mustard S4s #1 :)

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17 hours ago, Rudi K said:

Probably a good idea to get rid of the sun-roof – it did leak from time to time. My wife found some (grainy) photos of #44 from late 1983 or thereabouts. I'm sure Dave will rise to the challenge of putting this JPS back to form…

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Fantastic  to see those pictures - do you have any more info/pics ? Love the history bit 

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Hi Dave. Very interesting as always. The black profile section underneath the sunroof hole. Did you make that as well or is it a flexible sheet that can be encouraged to form the correct roof curvature from underneath?

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The "repair" of the damaged body rear 1/4 as revealed by DL seems to validate that most are of the opinion, " if it ain't metal it's got no strength ". Therefore one is free as a lark to plaster away over any joint with whatever muck seems handy. Driver's door on my S2 had been dealt with in much the same manner as I discovered when sanding away at excess putty on the inside, eventually realising I'd see daylight before sound GRP. Still have the souvenir cutout dangling from a hook in the garage, largely resin in composition. Technical know-how is so vital in proper auto maintenance, no matter what the car, and I fear it's becoming scarce!

Great stuff, as always Dave.

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8 hours ago, drdoom said:

The "repair" of the damaged body rear 1/4 as revealed by DL seems to validate that most are of the opinion, " if it ain't metal it's got no strength ". Therefore one is free as a lark to plaster away over any joint with whatever muck seems handy. D

This sadly is so common and as I said in the recent OOP's repair thread, once the paint is on the customer does not get to see what or how its been achieved  ..  Hopefully these threads will expose the short cuts made for profit and enable the owners to be more knowledgeable should they be unfortunate enough to need a repair . 

Acceptable methods will vary from one repair shop to another , which is why I always try to gather as many photo's for the customer whilst doing the job . They can then share the involvement and better understand what has been done and why ..     

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11 hours ago, Steve4012 said:

Hi Dave. Very interesting as always. The black profile section underneath the sunroof hole. Did you make that as well or is it a flexible sheet that can be encouraged to form the correct roof curvature from underneath?

This is something that is made for the particular job..  I used sheet steel cut to the shape of the hole but 60mm wider in all directions ..  I form rolled the edges which introduces a curvature close to what is needed.. I will never be exact, but dam close .. I then used the old sunroof clamping frame from the inside to add some rigidity, whilst at the same time it refined the curvature to match the roof section .   Because the curvature is so slight when applying any downward force the steel can flex or invert the curve if pressing hard enough in the centre..   To prevent this happening when applying the GRP layers, a centre support was also fitted .. None of the supports were under tension, but positioned in a way to stop any flex and movement when being worked on ..DSCN1028.JPG

The aim is to get as close to the same thickness of GRP as original , but more important is to maintain a uniform thickness over the complete panel .. Slightly thicker is preferable to thinner..     

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After the steel blank is removed, I am assuming a similar build up scheme on the inside?  1st layer is same size as hole, then progressively larger layers?

 

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19 hours ago, Erikl said:

After the steel blank is removed, I am assuming a similar build up scheme on the inside?  1st layer is same size as hole, then progressively larger layers?

 

 

No.  This will not be the case .   The purpose of grinding back a taper on the upper face is to replace the original thickness with as much overlap as possible for strength.. The two full layers are to create a uniform fully bonded surface .. This will need comprehensive flatting to get the smooth profile correct .. Once the flatting process and checking is done a final application of GRP will be applied with a tissue finish for refinement ..    If we did a build on the inside as the outside as you were assuming , it would massively increase the thickness and weight of the panel .  When the former is removed a light sanding will be done to smooth the joint area before fully assessing the situation .. I expect it will need no more than a layer of weave and possible a tissue layer to fully encase and bond the joint area .  I will cover this when we get to that stage ..       

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Tissue Layer.. Please show a pic when you get there.  Not familiar with the terminology. 

I am very curious because I have a large hole in the floor to repair and I am excited to use the same procedure (but with a large dash of amateur thrown in!)  Fortunately under the seat so not obvious.

Thanks for sharing what I am sure is decades worth of experience.  Fascinating.

 

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On 14/06/2021 at 22:26, Erikl said:

Tissue Layer.. Please show a pic when you get there.  Not familiar with the terminology. 

I am very curious because I have a large hole in the floor to repair and I am excited to use the same procedure (but with a large dash of amateur thrown in!)  Fortunately under the seat so not obvious.

Its just a Type of matting used .. Here is a pic of the 3 most common i use ..  left to right .. 450 chopped strand matting,  tissue matting , weave strip . All these are applied with the resin coat , The weave us put in stress or edging area's , 450 matt for general build and repairs , tissue is for a finishing coat,  it will all become clear as the thread progresses . 

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