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Getting black Elite back on the road


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The bearings are lubricated by diff oil - no need to grease.  Have you rebuilt the output shafts with new shrink-fit collars etc.. or bought exchange units?

Pete

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Hi Pete, I have bought all the parts to replace the bearings and seals. I was about to start reassembly when the grease question came up. My plan is: Press the new bearings on making sure I put the retaining plate on first (new seal). Then heat the collar in a small oven I use for reflow soldering. It should be able to get to the required 330 deg. I can measure the temperature with a thermocouple. I'll let the collar soak for an hour or so. Once hot press the collar on. Hopefully I won't drop the hot collar. I got 6 O-rings, one would hope I have worked out how to fit them before using that many. I have bought enough parts to do both sides, but I am waiting until I get the first one right before taking the other side apart.

How does that sound? What have I missed?

Lance.

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Yep - sounds like you're sorted.  I used a mapp gas blow lamp to heat mine up - let it get to dull red and it just dropped on;  held in place on the press until cool.  Does the manual say 330? - dull red is twice that!  I wouldn't want to get the collar half way on and find it was cooling too quickly!

I also put a small chamfer on the diff casting using a small diamond file to let the o-rings slide in more easily - mine had pretty sharp edges - I could se the o-ring getting cut.

Pete

 

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Ah, the manual actually says 363 C. Yes that's a long way off red. And yes I'd hate to get it half way on. That's why I'm doing one side at a time. Perhaps I'll just see how hot my oven will go.

Win, loose or draw I'll post some photos.

Lance.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well, I have lost the first leg. I got the collar up to 360C. But not for as long as I would have liked. The thermal fuse on my oven blew after about 20 minutes. The collar slipped easily over the splines, which it would not do cold, so I quickly pressed it down on the bearing. So far so good. I put the assembly back in the housing. Yes that O ring is a bit of fiddle. I thought I had pinched it so I back off a bit to check, it was fine, until I jiggled it and it fell off! About half an hour later I had it back in place. The problem appeared once the bolts were tight. The output shaft was locked solid. @^#%!^@&#*@!!!!!! I compared the old collar with the unused new one and the new one is about 1.2mm longer. Just enough to bind up on the housing. I am contacting the supplier for assistance.

Next time I'll use a flame to heat the collar and I'm sure I'll win the next leg, even if it comes down to penalties. At least I know the O ring went wasn't pinched and I'm certainly glad I decided to do one side at a time.

HeatCollar.JPG

FitCollar.JPG

CollarComp.JPG

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I don't think the length of the collar will make any difference - it just holds the bearing onto the shaft.  Have you checked the "nip" on the retaining plate?  it has to be just right - check the manual for dimensions.

Pete

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You're right Lance.  I just dug out my spare diff casing to remind myself of the internal diameter of the output tubes - they are much narrower than I'd remembered.  If the collar is too long it will hit the counterbore in the output tube.  Well spotted!

Pete

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