scroogemcd Posted September 15, 2021 Report Share Posted September 15, 2021 Hi all, I´m currently tidying up my S2 and try to get rid of some of the problems it has. One are the winking headlights. The problem seems to be that the motors are turning on because of the inertia of the rotor. I´ve made a video of the disassembled motor: https://youtu.be/BlIoxpua03A First you can see it turning over and over again as it´s winking while supplied with 12v. Then I changed to 10v and it´s working as it should. In the car i put a little light bulb in series to the motors and it worked ok for the last couple years but now I´ve got the ambition to repair it instead of working around the issue. Does someone have an advice or a solution for me? Thinking at a DC DC converter as the last solution, but maybe someone has something better in mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lotus-62 Posted September 15, 2021 Report Share Posted September 15, 2021 don't know if you know this so a little information, sorry if you knows allready I have been playing with the same motor for some problems as well. the motor relay gets it power from the green wire (middle contact copper strip, if the relay is switched off (cam pushes the copper strip away) the power to the motor is interrupted but the motor will still spin a little bit, maybe just enough to turn over the cam? the motor relay must short cut the 2 motor wires so the motor stops directly. if you put less volts on the motor it turns slower so maybe just enough to keep within the cam position? basically the P contct from the relay connects to the plus from the motor, the open contact to battery plus and the closed contact to zero (second motor contact that is connected to neg.) hope you can follow my dutch english LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TAR Posted September 15, 2021 Report Share Posted September 15, 2021 I resolved this on an S2.2 Elite by tightening the armature, the nut on the cut shaft. That increased the resistance slightly and slowed the motor sufficiently for it not to run past the cam. I'm not sure if this is the right way to adjust it but they still work well. Quote It's getting there...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drdoom Posted September 15, 2021 Report Share Posted September 15, 2021 What I am hopeful of understanding in regard to the lamp motor operation, taking into account what is thought to be a correct diagram for S2 wiring, amounts to the following. There are 2 internal switches in each motor, one connecting to the Changeover relay via Blue/Green, the other to the Flash relay via Brown/Green and these switches make/break alternately via cams within the motor. When Headlamp switch provides power over Blue leads to the Changeover relay it operates to feed the motors through U/G through the made switches back to Headlamp Motor relays via Green. This operates the HM relays to connect motor feed ( Lilac to relay, from fuse block ) via R/G to motors through to earth. The operation of the Flash relay is similar though having feed power over L/U from the Headlamp switch only when that is "Off", so that activation from the Main Beam U/W engages the process with HM motor relays via the N/G. Please correct me if wrong in this. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scroogemcd Posted September 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2021 17 hours ago, lotus-62 said: don't know if you know this so a little information, sorry if you knows allready I have been playing with the same motor for some problems as well. the motor relay gets it power from the green wire (middle contact copper strip, if the relay is switched off (cam pushes the copper strip away) the power to the motor is interrupted but the motor will still spin a little bit, maybe just enough to turn over the cam? the motor relay must short cut the 2 motor wires so the motor stops directly. if you put less volts on the motor it turns slower so maybe just enough to keep within the cam position? basically the P contct from the relay connects to the plus from the motor, the open contact to battery plus and the closed contact to zero (second motor contact that is connected to neg.) hope you can follow my dutch english LOL That´s like it´s in my car. And yes, lower voltage, lower speed, everything allright. I hope you can follow my austrian english 😉 14 hours ago, TAR said: I resolved this on an S2.2 Elite by tightening the armature, the nut on the cut shaft. That increased the resistance slightly and slowed the motor sufficiently for it not to run past the cam. I'm not sure if this is the right way to adjust it but they still work well. Thanks a lot for this hint, I´ve had the motors numerous times in my hands and never recognized this screw 🙄 The Battery is a bit weak, so its not as fast as on the bench, but works perfect now. https://youtu.be/7NFrfs4_U7E 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lotus-62 Posted September 16, 2021 Report Share Posted September 16, 2021 thats another way too slow down the motor lol. looks good! where is Austria do you live? ( sometimes I travel to Austria just to eat schnitzel!) no just kidding, I go every second year to the austrian lotus club in Bad Aussee. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scroogemcd Posted September 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2021 Near Vienna Bad Aussee is a nice place to be... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowrx Posted September 17, 2021 Report Share Posted September 17, 2021 Don't know how similar the S2 is to the Turbo(S3?), but my winking has always gone away with a headlight motor relay replacement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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