mpjg Posted November 3, 2021 Report Share Posted November 3, 2021 I am looking for a bit of help with the clutch on the 1988 esprit, i have searched the forum for help but havent seen any ( probably missed it ). A few weeks ago the slave cylinder popped a seal so had to be changed. It has been a saga trying to get everything changed over. The slave cylinder that was fitted was a totally different one ( seemed to be one off a land rover defender ) so had to get the original spec push rod which i was hoping would solve the problem. Fitted the new master cyclinder, slave and large bore pipe and now the car doesnt want to select reverse without crunching. I have checked the settings on the fork adjustment and the rod on the master cyclinder to what the service manual says but stll no joy. Had a try again last night, thought it could maybe be not bled properly. Finally got it to work fine in reverse and then wouldnt enetertain the thought of going back into reverse. Parts : PNM large bore braided pipe Willwood 0.625 master cylinder Side mounted slave cylinder Am i missing something obvious? Thanks in advance Marc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarBuff Posted November 3, 2021 Report Share Posted November 3, 2021 It is worth mentioning that your car has a Renault transmission, not the Citroen one fitted to North American cars. Quote Atwell Haines '88 Esprit Succasunna, NJ USA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpjg Posted November 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2021 11 minutes ago, CarBuff said: It is worth mentioning that your car has a Renault transmission, not the Citroen one fitted to North American cars. Yeh my mistake it has the renault transmission Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gold FFM Sparky Posted November 3, 2021 Gold FFM Report Share Posted November 3, 2021 If your pedal is adjusted properly, it's almost certain to be air in the system. The best way to bleed one of these is to remove it from the mounting flange and keep it vertical with bleed nipple at the top. 1 Quote British Fart to Florida, Nude to New York, Dunce to Denmark, Numpty to Newfoundland. And Shitfaced Silly Sod to Sweden. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpjg Posted November 4, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2021 16 hours ago, Sparky said: If your pedal is adjusted properly, it's almost certain to be air in the system. The best way to bleed one of these is to remove it from the mounting flange and keep it vertical with bleed nipple at the top. I will give bleeding it that way a try Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexw Posted November 4, 2021 Report Share Posted November 4, 2021 I've had some success bleeding slave cylinders by pushing the rod back into the slave while opening the bleeder. As in - not bleeding using the pedal at all. Good luck! 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrDangerUS Posted November 7, 2021 Report Share Posted November 7, 2021 Alex, You need 0.70 MC with 1,4" stroke and 0.43cuin volume. The 0.625 has only 1,25" stroke, which is not enough to disengage the clutch! Perhaps this thread will help: https://www.lotustalk.com/threads/s4s-clutch-adjustment.321074/ 1 Quote MrDangerUS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpjg Posted November 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2021 On 07/11/2021 at 14:28, MrDangerUS said: Alex, You need 0.70 MC with 1,4" stroke and 0.43cuin volume. The 0.625 has only 1,25" stroke, which is not enough to disengage the clutch! Perhaps this thread will help: https://www.lotustalk.com/threads/s4s-clutch-adjustment.321074/ That sounds like it could be the problem. Tried bleeding the clutch again last night with no joy still. Will get a 0.70 master cylinder ordered. Never thought it would be the wrong master cylinder with it being a 1988 but to be honest this car seems a mix and match of everything so doesnt suprise me totally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post mpjg Posted December 16, 2021 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted December 16, 2021 Just want to say thank you to everyone that helped, can is back to running like a dream and getting used 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NG5 Posted January 11 Report Share Posted January 11 I have a 1990 SE that has been suffering red hose syndrome so I've just got all the bits to change to braided hose. But when cold I've always thought there was possibly a bit of drag on the clutch, even with it properly adjusted and pedal as depressed as possible. But this thread has made me think. The S4 cars according to the parts lists have EXACTLY the same clutch mechanism as the SE (Clutch, bearing, arm, slave cylinder etc) with the exception of the master cylinder and pedal. The SE's master cylinder is 5/8" bore, the S4's 0.7", it's not obvious what is different about the pedal. Does anyone know if there is any reason why I can't use a 0.7" master cylinder? Will it totally screw things up? It would be nice to be able to operate the clutch with less pedal movement even if it was a bit heavier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonwat Posted January 11 Report Share Posted January 11 37 minutes ago, NG5 said: there was possibly a bit of drag on the clutch, even with it properly adjusted and pedal as depressed as possible Even when perfectly adjusted the Esprit clutch was always notorious for dragging requiring you to select first before whipping it back & into reverse in order to get a crunch free selection. 1 Quote Cheers, John W http://jonwatkins.co.uk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slewthy Posted January 12 Report Share Posted January 12 Just changed my clutch components over - same issue. Still slightly crunchy in reverse. Remember the clutch pedal has more than 1 place you can attach the master also! 1 Quote "Intellectuals solve problems; geniuses prevent them." Albert Einstein Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LotuStuart Posted January 12 Report Share Posted January 12 On 16/12/2021 at 15:12, mpjg said: Just want to say thank you to everyone that helped, can is back to running like a dream and getting used What fixed it in the end? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NG5 Posted February 2 Report Share Posted February 2 On 11/01/2022 at 21:32, NG5 said: Does anyone know if there is any reason why I can't use a 0.7" master cylinder? Will it totally screw things up? No one? Has nobody tried fitting a 0.7" master cylinder to an SE? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpjg Posted March 2 Author Report Share Posted March 2 On 12/01/2022 at 14:03, LotuStuart said: What fixed it in the end? Hi, sorry i just noticed this. Changed the master cylinder to the 0.70 version and it worked first time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.