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Clutch bleeding


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Hello everyone,

I'm starting to have a little difficulty engaging 1st gear. I'd say it does it 1 out of every 7 times. 3rd can be a problem downshifting at high speed.

I bleed the clutch by using one of those suctions pumps connected to the slave. I don't have the clutch depressed and I try not to use too much pressure in the pump ( don't want to suck air past master cylinder O-rings ) It's difficult to tell if there was air in the line because air gets sucked around slave bleed valve during the process. I also make sure the level in the reservoir doesn't get low.

Any ideas on how to do it right?

Thanks

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Just the same as you would the brakes on your car.

I tend to do mine using a one man bleed kit with the pipe and non return valve, or back to basics using 2 peeps, a pipe, a spanner and lots of "Up" and "Down" shouting :thumbup:

Not wanting to spread doom but it's as likely to be the clutches plates not moving freely up and down the spline as it is to be air in the clutch line.

Hey, can anyone smell fuel?????

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  • Gold FFM

Eric, is your rubber pipe over the hot lefthand exhaust pipe stil in good condition? Or get it thicker if you pressure up the system by stepping the clutch pedal. I'f replaced my pipe with a metall-brake pipe , and will ad a heatshield to. It can resist the heat from exhaust even better.

As a tool for bleeding i use a automatic pressured system with electric pump and reservour in it. It's not cheap, but im a mechanic and use it also on other cars. It realy a luxury life if you can bleed a hydraulic system by click on a switch... :whistle:

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to name the things if I see them, that's what I call integrity..

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spinner,

you have to pass a TON of fluid through the system to bleed it. I was amazed by how much fluid it took after i lost my slave. i used the "pump the clutch" method. probably took a half an hour, but when i was done i had less pedal effort than a honda. If your clutch is going, the pedal will get heavy. better to change that before you start mulching gears.

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  • Gold FFM
spinner,

you have to pass a TON of fluid through the system to bleed it. I was amazed by how much fluid it took after i lost my slave. i used the "pump the clutch" method. probably took a half an hour, but when i was done i had less pedal effort than a honda. If your clutch is going, the pedal will get heavy. better to change that before you start mulching gears.

OK it's your opinion,

it is common-if the system is empty ore a lot of air in it,you have to bleed. So what is the problem? Sure, are automatic system uses a steady flow. But if you change the fluid comletly or fill up a empty system it is a quick and easy one man job. And you can reuse the "drop out" fluid

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to name the things if I see them, that's what I call integrity..

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  • Gold FFM

It is offered from a local auto parts store. The delivered fillercab fits on the Esprit fluid reservoir('98 vesion) and it offers to use packages from single bottles to professional 5L tin-cans/containers. (Autoparts-shop is called "Auto-Tip", maybee a national one but it is also in the www?!)

By the way i think the system is a German/US Derivat version: "RodcraftPneumatic tools" GmbH-M

Edited by G

*********************************************************************

to name the things if I see them, that's what I call integrity..

*********************************************************************

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  • Gold FFM
bad advise to suggest re-using old fluid.

guess there is a big "missunderstud" case happen. If i build up a new brake system all pipes are empty, therefore it exist no "old" fluid. If you work on a newer car or system filled up short time in the past , with just a broken pipe the fluid cut bee also fresh and clean of water. Any problems if the fluid tester say H2O 0 percent, and the colour shows no weared up rubber parts and other dirt in it?!

And finaly, if your system needs a change of old and dirty fluid you can drain al pipes by open the lines and let it drop out. That means you start with a emty system at all.

*********************************************************************

to name the things if I see them, that's what I call integrity..

*********************************************************************

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The only slight down side from using "new" fluid that has passed through the pipes already (ignoring the miniscule traces of old fluid that would have been left), is the fact that it gets air mixed in with it. If the average home mechanic were to re-use it, the fluid would probably be re-used in a matter of mins, whereas , Gunter mentions a 5l container, so that fluid may settle for several hours / a day or so before being re-use and therefore the microscopic air bubbles would have moved out of the fluid.

In short, Gunter can, most home users shouldn't.

Andy

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Can you tell me what automatic pressured system you have? I'm intersting in buying one.

JoeyO

2001 V8

Motive power bleeder works great. The Black Label European bleeder comes with the correct

master cylinder cover in anodized aluminum. One quart of Castrol GT LMA just barely goes

far enough to do brakes and clutch and leave the reservoir full. Works the best if placed

higher than the reservoir. Bleeder bottles come in real handy also.

Link: http://www.motiveproducts.com/02bleeders.html

Edited by outtamyway
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  • 2 weeks later...
Motive power bleeder works great. The Black Label European bleeder comes with the correct

master cylinder cover in anodized aluminum. One quart of Castrol GT LMA just barely goes

far enough to do brakes and clutch and leave the reservoir full. Works the best if placed

higher than the reservoir. Bleeder bottles come in real handy also.

Link: http://www.motiveproducts.com/02bleeders.html

Pardon my ignorance. With this system are your pushing the fluid through from the reservoir? I've been told that this is a better way to do it than the suction kind.

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Yes, the motive bleeder pushes fluid through the cylinder - I used my motive on the clutch and still had to finish the job the old way pumping the pedal - the clutch is a pain to bleed period!

Paddle Faster, I hear Banjos!
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  • Gold FFM
Yes, the motive bleeder pushes fluid through the cylinder - I used my motive on the clutch and still had to finish the job the old way pumping the pedal - the clutch is a pain to bleed period!

..so , this means you have to stop bleeding for repressure the bleeder system by hand? This is why i chose a self pressured electronic system. But i think your system is good, it is not so heavy an easy transportable!

*********************************************************************

to name the things if I see them, that's what I call integrity..

*********************************************************************

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Hi All,

Please excuse my ignorance here ...

But the ONLY way to bleed the Esprit clutch system properly is to flush the whole system via power bleeder (= pressurized bleeder) with the slave removed from its location and put as high as possible ...

Usually around two litres DOT 4 flushed through will work.

Of course all the flushed DOT 4 should get thrown away after the procedure ...

BTW, the pump method wont work properly here.

Cheers

Marcus

Marcus

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FWIW (and your mileage may vary) - the motive (power/pressure bleeder) did a perfect job on my brakes, but still left air in the clutch system even after having a lot of fluid pushed through it. I always end up having someone pump the clutch pedal to get the last of the air out.

Paddle Faster, I hear Banjos!
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