stevefh Posted December 4, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2021 Hi Gary, what made me think of doing this is : the under chassis pipes are corroded, the reservoir pipes are sweating fluid and the rounded fixings. I will have another go at getting them off. What I really want to know is about the clearance as a last resort and whether the SJ pipes are stainless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevefh Posted December 4, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2021 Gary, what was the problem with the high pressure hose supplied by SJ ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chillidoggy Posted December 4, 2021 Report Share Posted December 4, 2021 Notwithstanding Sparky’s clearly tempting offer, have you tried a 1/4” ratchet with a wobble bar and hex head drive for the aft pump screw? As to whether you would have enough engine removal clearance, I can’t answer that one because I removed the pump from the bracket every time I took the engine out. Maybe you can post some photos up so we can all have a look at your problem? Quote Margate Exotics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevefh Posted December 4, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2021 Hi Ian, have more tools to try to remove the rear higher bolt but if I have to cut one hose/ pipe then I will cut at least two. Cannot use flame heat on the union as fuel pipe and tank close by so I have tried freeze spray but as yet hasn’t worked. Eventually I will resort to a stillson wrench and if no luck then cutting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chillidoggy Posted December 5, 2021 Report Share Posted December 5, 2021 I don't understand this. What exactly is in the way of the hex-head screw that is preventing you from undoing it? Like I said above, I use a 1/4" drive ratchet, long extension wobble bar, and a socket with a hex drive bit. If I can't quite make it, then I use a different length wobble bar. Once the heat shields are removed, you should be able to fit the hex bit into the screw head. If you can't physically turn it, stick a tube on the ratchet, and have another go. You might bugger the ratchet up, but that's a cheaper option than what I see you've posted above. Quote Margate Exotics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevefh Posted December 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2021 Hi Ian, due to the weather and being away for a few days I have not attempted to loosen the rear higher hex head screw but I know it’s on f.t. I have removed the heat shields and will have another go when it is dry. I have universal joints but not the wobble type but Christmas is coming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chillidoggy Posted December 9, 2021 Report Share Posted December 9, 2021 Now I'm confused: How on earth do you know how tight it is if you haven't attempted to remove it? The torque is 20NM on all the pump fastenings. See page 17, section HD of the Service Notes. Some general advice - if you're going to do your own work on an Esprit, be prepared to invest in all kinds of tools, and be prepared to modify/butcher some to make them fit the job as required. That includes grinding spanners, heating and bending. Yes, it's counter-intuitive to do that but in some cases it's a necessary evil. A flexible mini camera is also a good tool to have to help you see what the problem is before attempting to remove anything. Quote Margate Exotics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.