New to this Forum and new to Lotus ownership

[CarBuff]

On a car that old, I'd be surprised if it really has a parasitic draw when off, though I DO know that sometimes alternator diodes cause a draw on old cars.

 

Have you checked battery connections and the electrolyte in the battery?

 

+++++++

 

Your picture looks like a vent tube for the Citroen transmission. Should be one on each side.  Picture of ours is when we replaced the old tubing.

 

If your trans fluid is overfilled by 1/2 liter as is recommended, they WILL sweat fluid. BUT they should not create an apparent leak that is HIGHER than the tube exit.

 

Is your drip on the left or right side of the trans? I bet on the left. Could be cam tower seals (perished O-rings, easy fix) or a leak where the turbo oil return meets the oil pan.

 

Continue to look UP.

[BayouBill]

Atwell, the tube I'm talking about is on the Left side.

[CarBuff]

7 hours ago, BayouBill said:

Atwell, the tube I'm talking about is on the Left side.

There is supposed to be a vent tube on EACH side, as I said.

[BayouBill]

I didn't see that. I'll look again.

[BayouBill]

Trip Update: 

I've been driving the 87 around town and it seems to run better every time I drive it.

Sunday bight I drove it 60 miles to meet friends at a restaurant. On the way I noticed the Volt gauge was reading almost 15 VDC and the needle seemed to increase/decrease with RPMs. I spoke to Forum member Atwell and he confirmed what I was thinking, Voltage Regulator. I spent most of today removing the Alternator (man what a PITA 😒 Welcome to Esprit fun)

After a lot if cussing and bloody knuckles I finally succeeded. Atwell suggested I replace it with a Bosch AL49X alternator so I went to several parts stores(no luck) they said they could order it but that would take too long as I'm planning to leave for home Wednesday morning Several other part stores closed early due to Presidents Holiday so tomorrow i plan to canvas the area.

I dropped the special metal part that attaches to the adjustable arm and I can't find it. I looked for an hour. Not sure what I can do about this issue.

Alternator not working and missing key part 🤒

Maybe there is a silver lining? I lost that too ...

 

[BayouBill]

This  is the part I can't find

[Painterdave]

Check that bit is not sitting in or around the cam belt, I think 14.2 is ok for charging just put side lights on my drop down a bit

[Greg | ValetPro]

Hello and Welcome.

 

Great story, and Im sure these cars will be very sentimental to you.  

 

as your looking for find out more of the cars you might be interested in the Certificate of Provenance https://shop.thelotusforums.com/products/lotus-certificate-of-provenance

Might be worth looking in to.

[BayouBill]

Thanks Greg, I saw that when I first joined this Forum.

 

[BayouBill]

Update on my trip to AZ:

I finally found the special adapter piece for the alternator. 

Early this morning I received the Bosch alternator but it didn't come with a pully ☹ so I removed the pully assy from the Valeo and tried to fit it onto the Bosch but the woodruff key is a different size. Took everything to a local machine shop (Mr. Cs) the owner Lyle is a nice guy. He told me to go down the street to the foreign car machine shop and they should have the correct key size. I went to T&Ts machine shop and they had one. Went back to Lyle's and he mounted to pully assy for me. I asked him if he had an 80mm bolt to replace the stock one cause the Bosch requires a longer bolt that goes thru the adjustable arm. He sad no but he can work something out for me. He cut off the stock bolt from the special adapter and drilled/tapped it, found an all thread the correct length, screwed the bolt into the adapter and put lock tight to secure (see pic)  I didn't ask him to 'clock' the alternator cause I thought, I'll just make longer power/control cables.

Got back to the car and proceeded to install the Bosch. Ran into several difficulties but overcame them all but it took me several hours. I'm finding out how difficult it is working on the parts at the front of the engine when the engine is mid-mounted. My Pantera is mid-engine but I haven't installed the engine yet so this is my first time. Well, I'm no longer a virgin 😏

Before I installed the altered adapter bolt I noticed the power connection on the alternator was hitting the intake😳 so I had to pull off the alternator again and take it to Mr Cs to have him clock it. That process went smoothly so I returned to the car and continued with the install. Things were going fairly well until I attempted to install the revised adapter bolt (it's longer than stock so much so there's not enough room to insert it from the front (hits the firewall). So I pondered for a minute then decided to unscrew the bolt from the adapter, install the bolt from the rear then thread the adapter onto the bolt from the front and tighten it up. That process took a while but finally I succeeded 👍

I reassembled everything I took off to do this job (Intake plenums, fuel rail assy, filter box, etc) BTW, I can't believe how difficult it is to reattach the big rubber piece under the filter box. That thing fought me for an hour.

So now I start the car and it goes into a 'fast idle' situation. I'm thinking 'how can that be' so I spent the next 2 hours checking/rechecking everything but couldn't resolve the issue.

I removed the intake plenums to see if trash or something maybe got stuck in the throttle bodies but couldn't find anything obvious.

I went to bed very frustrated and I'll bet back to it in the AM.

Any ideas what's causing the fast idle issue? 

B4 I started the alternator swap the car was running great for 4 days. All gauges looked perfect(except for the Volt gauge) but swapping the alternator would fix that. Now I have this new issue and it's driving me crazy 😵

Edited February 25, 2022 by BayouBill

[BayouBill]

BTW, Atwell is assisting me on the phone and I really appreciate his help .

[BayouBill]

When I say Fast Idle I mean the idle shoots up to 4,500 RPMs

[Escape]

If it's revving that high, it sounds like the throttles aren't closing fully or you have a massive air leak. I'd start by checking the throttle cable isn't stuk somewhere and the valves are closing all the way. Of that checks out, look for an air leak that is bypassing the throttles.

[CarBuff]

4 hours ago, Escape said:

If it's revving that high, it sounds like the throttles aren't closing fully or you have a massive air leak. I'd start by checking the throttle cable isn't stuck somewhere and the [throttle body] valves are closing all the way. Of that checks out, look for an air leak that is bypassing the throttles.

Yup, we mentioned the above possibilities.

 

No word yet on whether backing off on the idle screw results in a reduction in RPM.

 

A disconnected or bad connection at the High Temperature Switch #6 would only result in a ~1500 - 2000 RPM high idle.

#13 ACU Idle Up Solenoid should not have been touched, it is on the other side of the RH engine wall.

Next: try disconnecting the blue plug at the cold start injector #31.

 

The last we talked, using Lotus Tool #2 (mirror on a stick) to inspect the vacuum connections to # 29 Thermal Ignition Valve and the dizzy is warranted.

 

[BayouBill]

After much troubleshooting (and patience) Atwell (and suggestions from others on this Forum) succeeded in helping me get my car running smoothly again. His suggestions were thorough, well thought out and during this process I'm learning a lot about this marque.

One of the first things I discovered is just how tough it is to perform basic maintenance on a mi-engine vehicle 😵 and when I get my Pantera on the road I'll have two mid-engine vehicles to maintain (I must be nuts)

The second thing I learned (not mid-engine related) is again, some basic maintenance can be VERY time consuming (i.e. after removing the air filter box to assist in replacing the alternator I had a heck of a time reinstalling the big rubber hose at the bottom of the air box. Even with Atwell's instructions/suggestions it took me way too long to reinstall. Maybe someone can tell me an easy way to do this job ...

Soon I'm planning to leave on my 1,500 mile trip back to Louisiana from AZ. The car seems to be running fine but I'm still on a steep learning curve so I hope I don't experience any serious break downs along the way.

 

 

 

 

[CarBuff]

5 hours ago, BayouBill said:

Maybe someone can tell me an easy way to do this job ...

Didn't I mention having surgery to include a second elbow in both forearms? 😁

[LotusLeftLotusRight]

Nothing constructive to add, but just want to wish you well with the drive home. Also great to see another TLFer helping you out (Atwell). Bon voyage! NB: photos of the Pantera please!

[Escape]

Good to hear you got it sorted! What was the problem?

Have a good trip and keep us posted! It will certainly be an adventure, but one I'm envious off. I feel like I'm playing it safe to often these days...

Filip

[CarBuff]

@BayouBillgot the new tires (tyres) installed today.  I had to remind him of the recommended pressures. Tire store wanted him to run all the tires at 35 PSI. 🤪🙄

 

He hasn't yet figured out the reason for his runaway cold idle...but the engine runs OK with the cold idle control (high temp sensor) disabled so he's going to run it that way.  (With a wire disconnected from that sensor, cold idle is inhibited)

 

Otherwise the car is running OK. His dash gauge says that the new alternator is charging over 15VDC, but when double-checked with a voltmeter, turns out that the actual voltage is 14.5 which is proper.  Drops to around actual 13 when running a while, so that isn't a concern.

 

Last night it didn't take him long at all to re-install the air filter box. Proof of the saying:

• First time is to LEARN
• Second time is to PRACTICE
• Third time is to GET IT RIGHT

😇

Wish him well on the trip home.  If it runs for 50 miles, it will be OK for 1500.  We have driven our Esprit to meets that far away several times.

[BayouBill]

Road Trip Update:  1,500 miles from AZ to LA

I left AZ at 7am Sunday morning. My plan was to drive from Kingman AZ to Amarillo, TX the first leg of the trip(12hrs, about half way to LA) and finish the second leg to LA on Monday(12hrs).

Driving out of the mountains (at first) the car seemed to run a little sluggish. I thought "is something else wrong, did I misadjust something during the alternator replacement?" No duh, After few miles the car woke up and drove great so these cars have to warm up good before it's ready to stretch it's legs. The couple of times I drove it around AZ before the trip, just by happenstance, the car sat idling for a few minutes before I took off but Sunday morning I was so excited to get home I cranked it and took off without warming it up. 

OK, simple thing, Live and learn.

Observations on the fist 12 hours with an Esprit: The car ran Awesome! Even going up steep mountain roads, the car pulled nicely and was a dream on the curvy mountain roads. These cars are not meant to be driven lazily, cruising on a Sunday afternoon. No, they are purpose built and you have to drive it on purpose. It requires your full attention but the pay off is FUN.

The seats are comfortable for long road trips, I never felt fatigued. At speed, this thing wants to fly. The harder you push it the more it likes it. My average speed was around 95mph. At times traffic slowed me down to the speed limit 😒 but may times I was running over 100mph and the car was quiet, smooth but very responsive. Just a pleasure to drive.

It's amazing the reactions you get from people. Some pull up along side of you and give you a smile and a thumbs-up. Some ride along side of you looking at the car and taking pictures. Some try to play games with you trying to get you to race them but I don't fall for that and after a few minutes I down shift and they disappear in my rear view mirror. When I stopped for gas people came over and said they saw me on the side of the road broke down and was wondering what happened. Getting gas I get the usual "Is it a Ferrari, Lambo, Pantera, etc. I tell them it's a Lotus and some say "Who makes Lotus?" 😏

Now for the stressful part:

Things are going about as smooth as possible when, about 120 miles from Albuquerque, NM I crossed an overpass and the bridge/road surface had a substantial drop in the pavement causing a jarring bump then I notice the car acted like someone turned the key off. No Power, so I coast to a stop off the shoulder of the Interstate. I knew it, things were going too smoothly. 

After it stop I turn the key on and the gauges react normally so I try to start the engine and it cranks but dies immediately. This happened a couple of times so I move on to troubleshooting the problem.

At first I'm thinking maybe the alternator is over charging and evaporating the electrolyte from the battery causing a failure. So I get out and start unpacking my (Rubik's Cube) packing job. I've got stuff strewn out all over the side of the Interstate. Get my DVOM and check the battery but all is well. So I contact my (phone a Lotus Forum friend) Atwell, and he instructs me in taking off panels in the trunk area, checking relays, etc. Then we move to the engine bay and I remove the rear bulkhead panel where the coil and more relays are located and start checking the relays when I notice my friend installed a micro bat switch and it's just hanging out of the relay panel and I'm wondering what's this for? I decide to perform a little test. I notice it's a 3 position switch so I leave it where I found it(in the center position) and try to crank the car. Same result so I move the switch to the left and try to stat the car (Bam) it starts up, sputters but runs. I quickly deduce my friend installed a fuel pump cut off switch (probably for a couple of reasons (Emergency fuel cut off or anti-theft protection) This also makes sense why the two screws holding the bulk head panel was held in place by two large chrome allen head screws and they were only had tight. When my friend was taking road trips, before he went to bed, he could go to the parking lot and quickly remove the two thumb screws, flip the switch and put the panel back on.  Quick and efficient.

 This is what likely happened: When I hit that rough bump it jarred the car hard and the switch, that wasn't tied down good, was thrown against the access door causing the switch to flip the the off position(shutting down the fuel pump) that's why during my initial road side test the car cranked but instantly shut down(no fuel) I proceed to tape the switch so it can't move around. Now, you have to purposely want to turn off the switch. It won't happen by accident. 

I take a big sigh of relief and start loading 100 pounds of stuff into a 50 pound container and hit the road again. Looking back on the experience I was only delayed for one and a half hours but it seemed like 10 hours because of the stress. The car ran great all the way to Amarillo, TX. Spent the knight and now it's Monday morning and I'm starting the last leg of my road trip.

I'm getting a 'Crash Course' in Lotus mechanics and custom (un-documented features) my friend installed on the car. Don't get me wrong, I like the fact that it has this fuel cut off switch but finding about it this way was a little un-nerving ...

A few general observations: The car needs a few things

1) Some type of interior lights for night time driving (Map lights, cabin lights, etc)

2) Cup holders

3) The cigar lighter phone charger doesn't stay inserted firmly and stops charging, I don't notice, and I wind up with a dead phone so I plan to install a USB charger near the console. 

I also have a host of little annoying things to fix - At 100mph I get a loud wind noise whistle coming from the passenger door. Maybe new door rubbers will solve that issue. At high speeds the drivers door, near the door handle also has wind noise. The removable sunroof latch on the drivers side doesn't want to stay latched firmly in place so after a while it rattles. The suspension at the rear left of the car squeaks and it bugs me. 

Bottom Line: My first road trip in the car isn't over and I'm already planning my next one. 

In closing I'd like to Thanks Atwell again. It's so reassuring to have someone to call to help you brain storm thru issues. He's been a big help. I've found the folks on this forum to be very helpful. Maybe I'll see some of you at a Lotus Meet in the future ...

 

 

 

 

[ChrisJ]

Sounds like a great trip so far. Glad to read that you solved the problem. Can't wait for the photos 

In my MY82 there is a built in cut out switch for if you have a rear end shunt or similar - I guess this might pop off with the jolt that you had. Here's mine. I don't know if you will have this as well.

In my MY82, there is an interior cabin light behind on the bulkhead in the centre of the car - it's a three way light. Middle is off, Up/Down (one is permanently on, the other way is on a dimmer with the door closing). I bought a cup holder the stuck on the windscreen with a suction cup, but it only lasted about 6 months before it broke. I use a power bank sitting between the door and the seat to charge my phone when using it as a sat nav, never had an issue.

Wind noise from the door - there is a solution for this, I think @top-plumber has fitted it to his car.

[CarBuff]

@BayouBillknew about the factory fuel cutoff switch (contained in the 'coil box' on HCi cars), the one he described was an 'extra addition'. There is an LED on the instrument binnacle lid, too.

 

Yeah fix for wind noise (assuming the main door seals are OK) is to fit the Stevens weatherstrip around the upper door frames.

 

Bill had one other issue midway through yesterday's trip. Bolts on plenum had backed out.  He could HEAR the turbo spinning!  LOL

[BayouBill]

Something weird happened today:
I re-installed the drivers door micro switches (I removed these when I was traveling back from AZ) the issue was the door buzzer would not stop buzzing until I removed/unplugged these switches.

After the switches were installed I noticed a dash light was on and it's labeled "Clifford".
With this light on the car does not start.

I looked thru the forum but didn't find much about this light. Possibly something to do with a security system?
Stock or Aftermarket?

I removed the dash panel and there is a black and a red wire the attach to this light.
I tried to trace the wires back but they head into a spaghettis bunch of wires under the dash.

I unplugged one of the wires, the light went out but car still wont start.

Symptom: Starter works like normal but engine doesn't fire ...

Everything was working OK until I reinstalled the door switches so it must be related somehow?

Further investigation indicates Clifford is an alarm system usually installed by the dealer.

Can somebody PM me the details on bypassing the Clifford alarm system? 

Edited March 9, 2022 by BayouBill

[BayouBill]

I found the problem: When I looked under the dash I saw a toggle switch located exactly where I was trying to fish the door switch's back to their normal position.

I guess you can flip that toggle switch and the car won't start so it's basic theft protection.