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S3 Dash Panel


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Would anyone here have a dimensioned drawing for the S3 dash panel. As expected, mine's in a million pieces and it would be good to have one laser cut in solid Aluminum. But I need to provide the engineering shop with a properly dimensioned 3rd angle projection drawing.

I can do the drawing using Adobe Illustrator, but I need dimensions.

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On 14/04/2022 at 01:50, ekwan said:

Would anyone here have a dimensioned drawing for the S3 dash panel. As expected, mine's in a million pieces and it would be good to have one laser cut in solid Aluminum. But I need to provide the engineering shop with a properly dimensioned 3rd angle projection drawing.

I can do the drawing using Adobe Illustrator, but I need dimensions.

You're talking about the gauge panels? They are in three parts and the side pieces aren't flat. I can take some dimensions, but it's probably more work than you're thinking.

 

519133792_ScreenShot2022-04-15at4_26_29PM.png.d85738de2126b524943feb6a51f28e60.png

1997 Jeep XJ | 1983 Lotus Turbo Esprit

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 16/04/2022 at 04:27, DrieStone said:

You're talking about the gauge panels? They are in three parts and the side pieces aren't flat. I can take some dimensions, but it's probably more work than you're thinking.

 

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I am talking about the middle plastic piece on which the gauges are mounted. Mine's cracked in a few hundred places.

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The central instrument panel is featherweight plastic, utterly marginal. For an upgrade I decided to fashion a replacement out of 1/4" MDF board in 2 layers so as to leave the instrument faces in a recess, spraying it with wrinkle finish for what seems a smart look and no worries with structural integrity.

Cheers 

IMG_3060.JPG

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 03/05/2022 at 00:26, drdoom said:

The central instrument panel is featherweight plastic, utterly marginal. For an upgrade I decided to fashion a replacement out of 1/4" MDF board in 2 layers so as to leave the instrument faces in a recess, spraying it with wrinkle finish for what seems a smart look and no worries with structural integrity.

Cheers 

IMG_3060.JPG

I am looking at a 1-piece Aluminum laser cut item. Then sprayed matt black or wrinkled finish.

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  • 2 months later...

Continuing to the end, I had the dash CNC machined out of Aluminium plate. Heavier than the original item, of course, but should outlast the lifetime of the car. 

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Then I had it anodised in matt black, not a total match for the original crinkle finish.

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I decided to go LED lighting instead of messing about with the fibre optics pod and I choose to build a mini harness for the lighting  to make it easier for removal and reassembly the next time.

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There was a little more achining work to be done to adapt the LEDs to fit the bottom row indicator lights as well as the speedometer and tachometer. With the smaller meters, one could purchase green LED bulbs, thus labour saving. The looms were terminated with Delphi connectors.

Next...... I had a whole bunch of bolts, nuts and panel screws anodised to suit.

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This final result.......

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It all works. But note to self: Purchase all your LEDs from a single source or there will be slight variations in colour (especially from cheapo online retailers). The swaps will be easy from now on, so uniform lighting colour for the next time the dash comes out. Meanwhile, there are still other more pressing things to get on with.

 

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On 03/05/2022 at 00:26, drdoom said:

The central instrument panel is featherweight plastic, utterly marginal. For an upgrade I decided to fashion a replacement out of 1/4" MDF board in 2 layers so as to leave the instrument faces in a recess, spraying it with wrinkle finish for what seems a smart look and no worries with structural integrity.

Cheers 

IMG_3060.JPG

The RHS panel with lettering for the heater flaps etc, did you ever get that refreshed? I am wondering how to recreate the print etc.

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Hi Eric,

My approach for that was something of a workaround. Not wishing to re-create the lettering I chose instead to neatly mask off the graphics then spray over with the wrinkle finish black. Seems fairly likely to work out.

Cheers 

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If you want to be able to dim those LEDs over a full range, you can use an inexpensive pulse width modulation (PWM) control if you isolate the grounds.

 

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14 hours ago, snowrx said:

If you want to be able to dim those LEDs over a full range, you can use an inexpensive pulse width modulation (PWM) control if you isolate the grounds.

 

I did think of whipping up a PWM controller using either a NE555/556 but I have other priorities to get on with since this is a 5 year ongoing project and counting. That’s something for the future. 

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15 hours ago, snowrx said:

If you want to be able to dim those LEDs over a full range, you can use an inexpensive pulse width modulation (PWM) control if you isolate the grounds.

 

How does one isolate the grounds?

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On my '85 Turbo the black lamp grounds were gathered in the binnacle in a big splice . I just took the grounds for the instrument illumination bulbs and gave them a separate common splice to run to the PWM controller output. 

These controllers start at $3USD on Ebay, I couldn't build one for that. Two wires in, two wires out, I spent more time mounting the potentiometer and making a knob.

https://www.lotustalk.com/threads/pwm-dimmer-for-g-car-dash-leds.356713/#post-4679745

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LED bulbs I'd purchased from Classic Car LED, UK, would not respond to a dimmer purchased from a local electronic components vendor so I threw in the towel on the effort. Correctly done wiring notwithstanding.

Thanks

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image.png.57f6d6e128ebbae159f1e5f03e66d1b8.pngimage.png.57f6d6e128ebbae159f1e5f03e66d1b8.png

All the bulb holders were specifically machined to accept a simple LED with a small resistor wired in series. I cannot remember the resistor values I used (they are documented on my computer somewhere), the I selected the resistances for maximum brightness that I require. Adding a potentiometer, or using the original dash dimmer, would work.

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On 16/08/2022 at 07:54, drdoom said:

LED bulbs I'd purchased from Classic Car LED, UK, would not respond to a dimmer purchased from a local electronic components vendor so I threw in the towel on the effort. Correctly done wiring notwithstanding.

Thanks

Commercially available LED bulbs have a circuitry that maintains the same level of light output irrespective of voltage fluctuations, within a specific voltage range, of course. This is the reason, the cannot be used with dimmers.

Mine are just simple discrete LEDs with a resistor in series and readily lend themselves to dimming with just a simple rheostat. As a matter of fact, I have a simple 5V circuitry that replaces the fibre optic pod, and the dimmer is the original rheostat of the car.

Just now, ekwan said:

Commercially available LED bulbs have a circuitry that maintains the same level of light output irrespective of voltage fluctuations, within a specific voltage range, of course. This is the reason, the cannot be used with dimmers. Once the voltage "drops out of range", the bulb will simply switch off.

Mine are just simple discrete LEDs with a resistor in series and readily lend themselves to dimming with just a simple rheostat. As a matter of fact, I have a simple 5V circuitry that replaces the fibre optic pod, and the dimmer is the original rheostat of the car.

 

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