Starting/sparking problems.

[Angus553]

Hello Everybody      Have currently got starting problems, It currently wont start and when cranking with the ht lead and spark plug to earth it doesnt spark at all or does 1 spark on the initial turn of the key and then nothing. 

Eventually got it started with a push start in gear and drove home.(not sure how as had no spark....but it worked!!)

Since then  the rotor arm trigger wheel coil and leads and spark plugs (distributor cap new and working fine without anything appearing to be worn out)  have been changed over but still the same symptoms.  It appears as though it sparks on position 2 but not position 3, where it just spins around?? some while back the spark to earth on the  accuspark electronic ignition found a path to earth where the old and new wires joined together but this was fixed but now getting the same symptoms. My thoughts are that the electronic ignition is now not working or it could be some kind of problem with the ignition barrel/switch??

If anyone has any thoughts please let me know

Thanks  Angus

 

[EXCEL V8]

To test your ignition barrel theory you could disconnect the white/red wire from the starter and the white/pink wire from the coil and look for 12v at each in both positions of the key.

Pete

[Angus553]

Hi Excel v8  Have done as you suggested although my white/pink wire is white from the barrel to the coil.(via the fuse box.)  Tested on the left hand side of coil where the white wire was and get 13.1 v on pos 2 and 12.9 on pos 3 with slight fluctuations. Does this mean the ignition is ok then? just for good measure the key has started to stick in pos 3 occasionally !!

[EXCEL V8]

Maybe the contacts are slightly pitted in the ignition barrel, but that shows that when the ignition is in the "crank" position (3) power is still getting to the coil.  Might be worth doing the same test at the coil while the car is actually cranking - see what the voltage is.

Pete

[Angus553]

Whilst cranking the voltage is around 10.5v. With the white wire disconnected im still getting 1 spark and also with the red wire disconnected as well. The red wires are the additional ones for the electronic set up.

Edited August 6 by Angus553

[Escape]

No spark when cranking can be due to the voltage drop when the starter motor spins. Especially if the coil is old and not performing as it should. Once running the alternator will guarantee a higher voltage, which would explain why the push start worked.

To eliminate the ignition, I'd put a new feed to the coil, directly from the +12V post, just for testing. Do make sure it's easy to remove to shut the engine off again.

[jonwat]

16 hours ago, Escape said:

I'd put a new feed to the coil, directly from the +12V post

Be careful if it's fitted with a 6 volt coil, you don't want to burn it out 

[Angus553]

Hi Escape and Jonwat 

 have connected a 12v feed from the battery to the left side of coil with other wires still attached, Its an accuspark 12v coil and the same symptoms occur,as in 1   spark or no spark at all.  With the new feed should it spin without turning the key? as it didnt unless the key was turned. Have fitted 2 accuspark coils both look in good condition and the result is the same. If the ignition is ok then by elimibation it has to be electronic ignition for which Ive got replacements for but a PITA to fit having done it twice previously, or the distributor(hopefully not) assuming all  replaced parts work properly of course.

[jonwat]

26 minutes ago, Angus553 said:

the ignition is ok then by elimibation it has to be electronic ignition

Sounds like it is 

[Angus553]

Thanks for all your help. Eventually came down to the inevitable conclusion it was an intermittently faulty electronic ignition. Swapped it over and hey presto ...lots of spark again.

Had to remove the carbs this time to get access so have ordered a few parts whilst its off the car to give it the once over until next time.