Do I have a crap oil filter?

[mr50bmg]

A bit miffed tonight to discover that after my very expensive servicing ($3000), the oil filter is not a Lotus one. Odd, because my mechanic has used Lotus filters on my car during previous servicing.

My concern is whether this filter has the anti-drainback valve.

Anyway, this filter is dark blue with orange lettering - I can't read the lettering too well using my inspection mirror. Basically, I can make out what appears to be a lower case "cloa--" or "clos--" or maybe "cios--" or even possibly "cros--". Don't know how many letters there are and if the last visible one is an "a" or an "s". There can't be that many dark blue filters with lower case orange lettering. I don't think it's Crosland, as they use upper case.

In addition to Lotuses, he also works on Jags, but I've google searched all sorts of filters and filter images and just can't find this one.

If anyone knows what it is, let me know. I'll see if I can call the mechanic tomorrow morning and find out.

Thanks,

-Dave

Edited August 18, 2005 by mr50bmg

[Evil_Dr_Fish]

Hmmm Im pretty sure that over here a standard Ford one goes straight on ours for a little over a fiver or we can pay the equivalent of $75 for a Lotus one!

Supposedly they're JUST as good but the Lotus one makes people happier! Also better when coming to seeling it as buyers view it as being no expense spared!

[DanR]

Hmmm Im pretty sure that over here a standard Ford one goes straight on ours for a little over a fiver or we can pay the equivalent of $75 for a Lotus one!

Supposedly they're JUST as good but the Lotus one makes people happier! Also better when coming to seeling it as buyers view it as being no expense spared!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I'd also been wondering where the value was in paying about 10x's more for a Lotus filter over a quality generic filter. Cut a few open and found the Lotus has a tube that extends up from the thread for about half the depth of the filter. Its purpose is to act as a dam. Stops oil, held in the filter, from draining out through the central hole which supplies the oil galleries, over extended periods of idleness. This would also be influenced by the clearances on the bearings etc.

All the filters I opened, have an anti-drainback seal, which is little more that a one way rubber washer covering the outer ring of holes. Easy to see when purchasing a filter. Any leakage there will be through the oil pump and back into the sump. What the others didn't have was that tube partway up the inside of the Lotus filter. So maybe that expensive Lotus filter is worth paying for after all.

But...when you think about it, it doesn't really matter unless the filter is mounted upside down. That is with the thread on the bottom. Any filter, regardless of that tube, when mounted sideways, as ours are, will eventually drain its oil over time. No more than half though if the anti-drainback part is doing its job. The consequence of a partially drained filter being the oil pump will need an extra few revolutions to refill it before pressurizing the galleries. A good reason to never rev the engine when starting.

I'd suggest it's more important to source a generic filter that has a quality membrane capable of filtering out the finest particles. Oh, and as a cross reference, filters for early Saabs will also fit the Stevens models. I'm not sure if they fit the Guigiaro ones though. Finally, the ideal position would be for the filter to be mounted vertically with the thread at the top. No chance then of any oil draining out.

All the filters I cut open, had a pressure relief valve. A safety device for people who never change their filter, so oil can still pass through despite the filter having become clogged. I'll check this weekend if I still have those cut-up filters and post some photos.

Edited August 18, 2005 by DanR1201

[Splashout]

Surely you have the invoice from the garage should it not be listed on there?

[PVK 596Y]

Hmmm Im pretty sure that over here a standard Ford one goes straight on ours for a little over a fiver or we can pay the equivalent of $75 for a Lotus one!

Supposedly they're JUST as good but the Lotus one makes people happier! Also better when coming to seeling it as buyers view it as being no expense spared!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Blimey, where are you buying your filters? The last genuine Lotus one I bought was around a tenner IIRC from Motorway Sports (RIP). That was over a year ago though.

Paul.

[dglotusltd]

Interesting...

I was considering adding an assembly to remote the filter on my S1 to make it easy to change frequently. But I have been considering the mounting orientation.

Short of mounting it horizontally just like the normal engine mount, would it be better to mount it vertically with the threads up? That would keep it full at all times and ensure oil to the galleries shortly after startup.

Opinions?

DomG

[WayneB]

Buggered if I know what kind of filter your man has installed

The Lotus filter(or Crossland) is cheap insurance compared to the price of an engine rebuild

Never ceases to amaze me how cheap some owners are

[Guest teigan]

I use a Mobil 1 oil filter. it doesn't have the same design as the stock filter, but there are provisions for all the drainage and pressure issues cited. i don't mind paying more for a good filter, but $75 + shipping is robbery.

[mr50bmg]

Ok... finally confirmed it is a Crossland from JAE and has the anti-drainback tube.

As for the remote filter idea - that sounds attractive. Yes, I would think you would want to mount it with the threads up.

-Dave

[Evil_Dr_Fish]

Well would you believe it?!

I think Mr Angus has been reading your thread Dave...

In their talk on Sunday the gents from Lotus mentioned the drainback tube htings etc and said they have them literally because the type of filter Lotus picked up HAPPENED to have them!

..and that indeed, as they are mounted horizontally, it does nothing!

[DanR]

An older topic but here's a photo of the Lotus filter compared to a generic one and the smaller one is off the Calibra AWD Turbo. It actually will fit the Lotus engine but doesn't have the pressure relief valve. Probably because the manufacturer anticipates owners are more likely to maintain regular servicing. All have the anti-drain back valve.

Edited June 6, 2006 by DanR1201

[Tony K]

I use a filter by Mann. They are good quality. The actual filter for the 907 is a fairly common size, to the point that I could walk into any "Autozone" or "Advance Auto Parts" and pick up a Ford Motorcraft (PF3, I think?) for $3. I don't remember so much any more, but the 907 filter may or may not be the same as what is used on some Fiat/Lancia twin cam engines.

Mann filters are regular fixtures in Porsche and Mercedes cars, and whenever I have seen someone cut filters apart, the Mann always is obviously of better construction.

When I start the S1s from cold, I often count how many seconds it takes to build oil pressure. My thought-out assumption here is that if the filter has drained out, that will add to the amount of time it takes for oil pressure to build.

The red car has a Mann filter and the white car has a Coopers. The red car, after sitting a few days, shows oil pressure on the gauge after only about five seconds, whereas the white car takes about 8 seconds. I wonder how much, if any, of that time difference has to do with the filter. I will try to isolate it from other variables in the coming months. Here are some other variables:

- The red car has a never-rebuilt engine out of a 1980 Eclat with around 26k-27k miles. The white car has a freshly rebuilt (850 miles) original Esprit S1 engine. I don't know whether the 1980 Eclat engine has the cross-drilled crankshaft or not; I have heard that Elites/Eclats did not have that, but I also heard that all 907s after 1978 or 1979 had cross-drilled crankshafts. So I don't know if 1) cross-drilled crank or not affects the time to build oil pressure, and 2) if both engines have cross-drilled crank or only one.

- The red car has Valvoline VR-1 20W50 in it. I don't know what the white car has, but I am sure it is not a straight 50 or 60; if anything other than 15w- or 20w50, it has something thinner, like 10w40 or 30. First oil change in the white car is coming soon, so this variable will be eliminated.

- The white car may have air in the tube going to the oil pressure gauge sending unit; the needle flickers a tiny bit a couple of times before finally going up (S1s have a 8" long tube going to a sending unit mounted to the frame, and the gauge itself is electronic). I will "bleed" this line when I do the oil change.

So some time later this summer, I expect to have everything the same on the two cars, so I can see if different oil filters allow different amounts of oil to drain out, and if that affects the amount of time the engine runs without oil pressure at startup.

I think the 907 is a great engine, except for various oiling issues. Usually when I hear about someone needing a rebuild, it is oil related. There is the occasional head gasket, cam belt breakage, or high-rpm piston/rod failure, but it seems to me that 4 out of 5 times, the engine starves of oil in one way or another before something else can happen.

Your thoughts?

[Tony K]

This post is just because of a glitch on the board; It says "Last post by DanR1201", but I am only seeing my big long post as the last post. Did Dan post a reply I am not seeing, or is the board not recognizing my post as the last post?

- T

Edit: now it's okay . . .

Edited June 6, 2006 by Tony K