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TWANG! How do you get into the boot/trunk when


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Hi James

Sorry to hear of your problem with boot cable,there have been posts on here before about this may be worth doing a search. It seems not to be an easy fix, I think I remember talk of drilling holes behind number plate to get to the latch but good luck I hope you get it sorted.

Ray

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This has happened to a number of people. The last resort is the drilling a hand sized hole in the right hand side behind the number plate, or alternatively some people have removed the boot floor by removing the screws. I'm sure someone has pics of all this on a website somewhere - just can't remember.

Simon  (94 S4)      My Esprit will be for sale in late 2017

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Two way's of getting the hatch open!

http://www.lotusespritworld.com/EMaintenance/HatchCable.html

Would be great if you could take plenty of pictures and do a guide for LEW when you replace the cable. Would help others in the future.

kato

lew_small.gif

http://www.lotusespritworld.com' target='_blank'>

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OMG that is insane !

I've heard they are a pig to do on the Elise but drilling 2 whacking holes in the back of the GRP ?!?!

Gonna have a look at this tonight - sure there is another way to get this off, if not I am going to rig up a fail safe mechanism.

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James

I have been thinking about your problem, and after looking at mine and without taking mine apart. I would think the cabal would tend to break at the operating lever end where it attaches. If you drill a hole about 1/2 inch in the plastic cover that you show in your pic and where the hole is now I think it me be possible with some luck to pull on the broken end of the cable with some long nose pliers get some one to press down on tail gate to take tension of the caches then after you have done it just replace the plastic cover if you want or just leave it because its covered by the lever any way.

Just a thought hope it helps

Ray

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Guest teigan

i've read about this problem many times. i have a backup wire accessible from under the car. can't tell you where for daily security reasons. i'm sure you can figure it out for yourself.

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That's brilliant guys.

Looks like I'll be drilling holes at the start of next week and I will take plenty of photos Kato, especially of the threading through and patching-up (which seem to be the only stage Steven Burridge missed in his shoot).

The removing the boot floor idea sounds good but having had a think about my scenario it may not work... I've got my tourneo cover in the boot at the moment, its tightly packed in a secure bag which is fastened. It forms a solid ball of approx 50cm diameter when like this and doesn't have a lot of 'give' in it. I reckon that when it comes to 'pushing up' the floor the tourneo bag will jam-up against the tailgate and prevent the floor from moving upwards... and what with the rusted on nuts, and the legendary 15yr hardened Lotus black sticky mess (adhesive) I think I might be better off going with the drilling holes method.

So until then I'm bootless :) I'll see most of you down at the Oxford meet tomorrow, but I'm afriad I won't be able to show anyone the engine.... which is probably a good thingat the moment! :)

Edited by EspritMiltonKeynes

EspritMiltonKeynes - ironically now lives in Edinburgh London (SE4)

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Hi - same thing happened to me before Christmas - it is a bugger and I was lucky, but I managed to get mine open without having to drill out the grp... It is worth a try:

If you undo all of the bolts from the boot floor, you can push it up from behind the exhaust silence enough to get a hand in and squeeze the latches open.

Shame I hadn't seen this post before the Oxford meet, I would have sought you out and talked you through it, but if you need photos / advice then give me a shout...

Best of luck with it, Ian

Ian

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How removable is the (now disconnected) cable release lever?

"When I was a kid I used to pray every night for a new bicycle. Then I realised that the Lord doesn't work that way so I stole one and asked him to forgive me."

------------------------------

ribbon200.gifG-Car Owner and Proud! ribbon200.gif

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Not sure yet, got some drill bits and saws out this morning. Walked up to the rear end of the esprit like the grim-reaper to the slaughter - and then ran back to the house in fit of despair to cries of "No, no, no, I can't do it! Please forgive me! "

Needless to say the neighbours all think I've lost the plot :P

Gonna just not use it for a bit... maybe another job for the specialist. Roll it in with a big service or something. (And I've got plenty of those looming).

EspritMiltonKeynes - ironically now lives in Edinburgh London (SE4)

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Nooooooo ! Don't do it :P

From what it looks like the lever assembly can be removed from the bulkhead. I have the day off tomorrow/today I'm doing some work on mine so lemme have a look. If it can be done you might be able to grind off the fixing from the lever pivot to the bulkhead, remove the trim and get at the cable that way.

From your picture, under the pivot at the top you can clearly see the silver pin holding the lever onto the pivot. Directly below that is a weld - if you can dremel that off (slowly, slowly cus the heat will build up on the metal as you grind and melt the plastic trim - use water to cool it periodicly) the lever will come off and the thread holding the trim will fall off too which should allow you to withdraw the plastic trim and lever out giving you larger access to the end of the cable - you should then be able to pull the cable manually.

Either that or punch a largr hole into the plastic trim.

Its worth a go, this is exactly what I would do before even thinking of taking it out on the GRP. If all goes wrong these parts are easily replacable - if you need a new thread made up or re-welded lemme know cus I can do that at work.

Edited by Jono
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Awfully decent of you Jono but I'm fairly tied up tomorrow otherwiase I'd drive round to you... I see what you mean, so I take it from what you're saying that the lever pivot is actually welded from behind to something on the bulkhead? It's not possible just to prize the whole thing off with a knife then? How did they build these things in the first place?

EspritMiltonKeynes - ironically now lives in Edinburgh London (SE4)

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Hahaha

...and have a really annoying rattle from the back end of the rivet rattling around in your bulkhead :P :P

(Sorry for being so utterly un-constructive!)

"When I was a kid I used to pray every night for a new bicycle. Then I realised that the Lord doesn't work that way so I stole one and asked him to forgive me."

------------------------------

ribbon200.gifG-Car Owner and Proud! ribbon200.gif

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Have a look at the attachment :

(60) is obviously the lever,

(61) is the part that you can see with the weld on it in your photo

(65) is what holds it on.

Normally to get at it you'd take the nut (65) off but you cant get at that unless you open the rear hatch (not very helpful eh?) So what I reakon is by gently grinding part (61) where the thread is welded on that should drop the thread off. The thread, washer and bolt should fall off inside the rear half of the car allowing you to take the lever and pivot assemly off. Then it looks like a case of just prising the plastic trim off and that should (key word = should) expose a larger hole for you to get at that cable.

If not then you can always enlarge it with a drill and use a tool to find the cable, like a magnetic grabber or similar (I have some useful stuff here like that if you need it) - just seems the more attractive alternative to me.

post-136-1124877228.jpg

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Buy a new one!

A LOT cheaper than repairing your GRP!

"When I was a kid I used to pray every night for a new bicycle. Then I realised that the Lord doesn't work that way so I stole one and asked him to forgive me."

------------------------------

ribbon200.gifG-Car Owner and Proud! ribbon200.gif

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Hmmm.

Before you do all of this, then I strongly urge you to have a go at getting in through the boot floor. Even if you end up having to grind the bolts off, it is a darn site easier and cheaper to get a dozen m5 nuts and bolts than the hatch release mechanism.

I also would not be at all surprised if it doesn't help even if you do manage to get hold of the cable. On my car, one of the latches opened before the cable snapped and I was able to carefull prize the hatch open enough to go fishing for the cable with a coat hanger. The trouble was that it didn't help! The reason that the cable broke in the first place was because it was mangled and the only way I could release the latch was to squeeze it with some mole grips. That meant going in through floor or drilling a hole behind the number plate...

Try the boot floor! I was lucky that the bolts undid easily, but it took me an hour to get in this way and most of that was trying to get my hand up and through the boot floor and the mole grips on the latch mechanism.

PM me if you want my e-mail / phone number and I'd be happy to talk you through it / send photos!

Ian

Ian

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Buy a new one!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Ya, or send it to me and I'll re-weld it / make a new one - will take me 10mins to restore it.

The part can only cost a few quid anyways, all it is is a bit of 5/6mm studding, C bracket with a small hole drilled through it.

Boot floor is also worth a try, at least you have some options before doing teh un-thinkable !

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Blimey, personally if I couldn't think of anything else other than cutting the car, I'd cut through the boot floor to give me an access hatch to the boot, open it, then repair the boot floor. It's in a location where it won't need painting or anywhere near the kind of filling and matching that you'd need if you drilled the bodywork. As someone else suggested you could probably grind off the bolts that hold the boot floor down and just push the rear edge up, it's quite a flexible panel on my SE.

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Had the same problem about 3 months ago. I took out my roof and disconnected the hatch on he front side. Then i put a piece of cloth between the rear end and the body and lifted the hatch at the top side (you'll have to be with 3 persons) After that i had enough space to get onder the hatch to pull the right cable with a long hook. (had to restyle a fishing net) it worked well but was a terrible job. After that it i could lift the hatch on 3 sides. It was open in an instant. No holes !

total time 2 hours and a lot of luck but worth the try

researche is something i do when i don't know what the hell i'm doing

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Had the same problem about 3 months ago. I took out my roof and disconnected the hatch on he front side. Then i put a piece of cloth between the rear end and the body and lifted the hatch at the top side (you'll have to be with 3 persons) After that i had enough space to get onder the hatch to pull the right cable with a long hook. (had to restyle a fishing net) it worked well but was a terrible job. After that it i could lift the hatch on 3 sides. It was open in an instant. No holes !

total time 2 hours and a lot of luck but worth the try

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

THATS a new one!!!!

Sounds good to me, if you go this way then photos to kato! :)

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