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TWANG! How do you get into the boot/trunk when


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That's inspired lateral thinking.

Very, VERY clever.

"When I was a kid I used to pray every night for a new bicycle. Then I realised that the Lord doesn't work that way so I stole one and asked him to forgive me."

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Blimey! That is a new one.... So I take it there's nothing that needs to be ground off in the tailgate hinges next to the glass roof. Just regular nuts and bolts, etc. I will defintely have a look at that one.

EspritMiltonKeynes - ironically now lives in Edinburgh London (SE4)

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i've read about this problem many times.  i have a backup wire accessible from under the car.  can't tell you where for daily security reasons.  i'm sure you can figure it out for yourself.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Is this standard or custom?

Jason

Land Rover Discovery II & waiting on next Esprit

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Guest teigan
Is this standard or custom?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

it is a standard anti-lotus device. well actually it is two bits of wire wrapped and soldered into the latches. looks a right mess, but i'll eventually make it nice. the puller side has an ugly pulley glued inside the boot, but i'm gonna ditch that in favor of extending that end in a straight line into the cabin behind the existing plastic pull handle.

Edited by teigan
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Guest esprit geoff

Good luck James - plenty of options.

After reading about this problem some time ago, every time I open the latch I do it very carefully, worrying about it snapping!!! It feels so fragile.

Geoff.

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UPDATE!

Tested out the favoured 'fishing net' approach earlier today... it really looked as if it might work at one point. Taking the hinges off the tailgate hatch was the easy bit. 4 bolts, with washers top and bottom, I needed to remove the rear trim pannel in the cab in order to get at the bottoms of them as they were just spinning on the ratchet but got there in the end.

The problem as I found it was that there was so little clearance between the fibreglass body pannels that I could only lift the hatch a few centimetres up before they'd start grating against each other. And the addition of cloths just gives even less clearance! It was just about enough for me to get my 'probe' in, and I then spent the next 20 mins unsuccessfully fishing about trying to get it to latch onto the cables. It just seems near to impossible.

I didn't have 3 people having said that, but to be honest I don't see how it would it make it much easier. The fact remains that you have plenty of horizontal mobility but virtually no vertical. If anyone's ever tried to break into a house through the letterbox using bent coat-hanger etc, you'll know exactly what I mean....

the saga continues.... :(

EspritMiltonKeynes - ironically now lives in Edinburgh London (SE4)

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Sounds good to me, if you go this way then photos to kato!

I started taking them actually..... really looked like it was going to work. Don't know if he has a section for 'efforts in vain' though :(

EspritMiltonKeynes - ironically now lives in Edinburgh London (SE4)

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Thats a very good point Paul

Having a clear frame of reference can only hepl!

"When I was a kid I used to pray every night for a new bicycle. Then I realised that the Lord doesn't work that way so I stole one and asked him to forgive me."

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How could we prevent boot-cable failure?

Let's give this some thought now, and perhaps save each other some grief later. I'm willing to go to a lot of trouble now to prevent having to cut a hole in my car.

My ideas are below, but probably are no substitute for the practical wisdom of those who have worked through a snapped cable.

1. Grease the cable while it's still in one piece.

2. Replace the cable while it's still in one piece. I know bicycle cables are now available with permanent, teflon-based lubrication incorporated in the sheath. Not sure if available in sufficient length, however.

3. Combining the "remove the lever" approach with the "hidden secondary cable" one, it might be possible to route a redundant cable next to the old one, keeping it tucked behind the B pillar for use with pliers when the primary cable does fail.

4. Slight variation on #3 above: although my '89 has electrically-operated fuel flaps, I see in Section 12-02A of the Parts List that '88s had cable-operated flaps, with the release levers in the door sill. If the parts could be obtained, perhaps a secondary boot cable could be routed to the former fuel flap levers to provide an alternate release mechanism.

5. I know what you're thinking; solenoid-operated boot release? Won't work with a dead battery!

Yours,

Tom

'89 Esprit EFI

"If everything is under control, you're going too slow." - Mario Andretti

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Never tried undoing the boot. I suppose it would work but he fastest way is to take a hammer to the tail light and stick your hand and have a tug at the cable.

I had one person use a long pliers through the seat belt hole.

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Secondary cable - assuming there's space! (if tehre is, then great!)

Boot popper makes the most sense to me! What is the likelihood of the cable snapping AND having a dead battery? They are not related problems at all. In any case you could easily, permanently trail 'emergency jump leads' from the battery to an out of the way but externaly accessibly place. That way you could get power to it without actually giving anyone access or the ability to open the boot - because you would still need the coded keyfob to pop it :(

Last one is to do what Teigan has done and trail and emergency boot release cable to a hidden location. Downside of this being that should somone discover it, they can get access... but what is the actual likelihood of that? If it is concealed well enough and requires crawling about under the engine bay to find it, then someone who is THAT determined to mess with your car will do so anyway.

"When I was a kid I used to pray every night for a new bicycle. Then I realised that the Lord doesn't work that way so I stole one and asked him to forgive me."

------------------------------

ribbon200.gifG-Car Owner and Proud! ribbon200.gif

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Only problem with a remote boot popper is that you'll use it all the time, great i hear you say, so much more convinient.

"Bugger!!! the solenoid i fitted is knackered" (or fob/switch knackered) :(

"AAHHH!!!! I know i'll use that trusty old back up cable, WTF???? Who would have thought that the cable would have siezed solid, i'll pull a little harder, s**t now i've busted my release lever! Suppose thats what i get for being lazy and using a remote boot popper." :(

Sorry going a bit mad and talking to myself!!! :(

Best thing has to be 2 teflon coated bike cables, brake cables pref as the gear cables are thinner. Then modify your boot release lever to accept the 2 cables. No extra holes and an original looking finish. :)

Edited by Simon350S

Chunky Lover

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I think it IS possible to take paranoia *too* far!! :(

:)

"When I was a kid I used to pray every night for a new bicycle. Then I realised that the Lord doesn't work that way so I stole one and asked him to forgive me."

------------------------------

ribbon200.gifG-Car Owner and Proud! ribbon200.gif

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Easiest thing of all would be to replace your cable right away, if you've not already done it recently.

Only the inner should need replacing so just pull the old cable out and feed the new cable in. Lubricate the outer sheathing with copious ammounts of 2in1 oil fed down from the leaver end untill it starts to drip into your boot before you fit the new inner cable, put a rag down or someting so you dont damage your carpet. Then build in a regular lubrication routine into you annual servicing.

If you replace your cable every 3-4 years you should never have any problems again. :(

Edited by Simon350S

Chunky Lover

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Here's a snap of the hidden stuff - which you can't see. Under the carpety bit of stuff. Shows the elusive bolt and the beginning of the cable which is mounted to the cabin latch release.

timscar006web.jpg

Simon  (94 S4)      My Esprit will be for sale in late 2017

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Guest teigan

i like the bicycle cable idea. bicycle parts are far better engineered than automobile parts. even a single bicycle cable would have a longer duty cycle than the thicker stock cable.

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sure, but you'd need to buy one long enough, so go to a proper bicycle shop with cable on a spool.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Thanks B) it might be a good idea to change that cable as soon as possible :D

Check my blog and leave comments/suggestions Jussi's photography blog

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