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TWANG! How do you get into the boot/trunk when


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UPDATE!

.... If anyone's ever tried to break into a house through the letterbox using bent coat-hanger etc, you'll know exactly what I mean....

I recall a gynaecologist who wanted a major career change, or sea change as we say in oz. Wanted to become a mechanic. She was perplexed though, with her final assessment mark. Asked the teacher why he gave her 150%.

"Well," he said "the way you took the engine apart was excellent, very methodical, laid out all the components in an orderly fashion, kept things clean so I gave you 50%. When you rebuilt the engine it was perfect, didn't have to redo anything and it started first go so I gave you another 50%. Then I gave you a bonus of 50% because you did it all through the exhaust pipe."

DanR

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I recall a gynaecologist who wanted a major career change, or sea change as we say in oz. Wanted to become a mechanic. She was perplexed though, with her final assessment mark. Asked the teacher why he gave her 150%.

"Well," he said "the way you took the engine apart was excellent, very methodical, laid out all the components in an orderly fashion, kept things clean so I gave you 50%. When you rebuilt the engine it was perfect, didn't have to redo anything and it started first go so I gave you another 50%. Then I gave you a bonus of 50% because you did it all through the exhaust pipe."

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

hahaha.... well at the rate I'm going at I'll never make a gynaecologist. If anything I'll be drilling extra holes!

Had another go with the fishing net today.... no luck.

Also tried dremmelling off the welded bracket as suggested earlier but no luck., just metal fillings everywhere and a slightly chaffed handle ;) .

Then tried pinching the end of the cable with needle-nosed pliers but they're just pushing the cable fibres further and further back into the car.

Then I tried a few other things.... :D

Then I went down the gym.

EspritMiltonKeynes - ironically now lives in Edinburgh London (SE4)

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Ok if you have to drill a hole instead of going through the number plate, remove the muffler and go through the floor. Easy to fix/hide/plate and you won't feel as bad as going through the body.

DanR

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I think it IS possible to take paranoia *too* far!! :)

:)

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Paranoia doesn't mean they're not really after you. Right?

Tom

89 Esprit Turbo EFI

"If everything is under control, you're going too slow." - Mario Andretti

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you're going to love this guys. inspired by the brilliant posts for this topic, i replaced my stock cable with a presheathed bicycle cable. it worked great the first 20 or so times, but the far end of the cable housing somehow came loose from its mooring and now i can't get the far latch open. i had removed my backup cable to properly install the bicycle cable, so i'm stuck with my boot half locked, and no failsafes. i tried using a fishing rod and noose to grab the latch, but i can't get enough leverage on the latch even though i'm able to loop around it. i'm determined to sort this tonight. i'll probably end up removing the cant rails and unbolting the nonlatch end as someone suggested. is it a multiperson job to unlatch once those bolts are off?

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you're going to love this guys. inspired by the brilliant posts for this topic, i replaced my stock cable with a presheathed bicycle cable.  it worked great the first 20 or so times, but the far end of the cable housing somehow came loose from its mooring and now i can't get the far latch open.  i had removed my backup cable to properly install the bicycle cable, so i'm stuck with my boot half locked, and no failsafes.  i tried using a fishing rod and noose to grab the latch, but i can't get enough leverage on the latch even though i'm able to loop around it.  i'm determined to sort this tonight.  i'll probably end up removing the cant rails and unbolting the nonlatch end as someone suggested.  is it a multiperson job to unlatch once those bolts are off?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

No way! How unlucky are you? ;)

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well i tried removing the top end of the boot, but i couldn't get to the bolts thanks to the siderails, and i couldn't remove those rails for some screws blocked by the window frames. i'll start another topic in the giugiaro section as there is enough pathos to spread around.

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cant sugget anything different for getting the tailgate open but

was having thought on the lernative/hidden lever method.

Any thoughts on runing a backup toggle through or down next to the water hatch drain pipes. One either side to pull on if cable sticks etc.

Would just need a pivoted L bracket at top then have cable go to toggle through boot floor.

I would prefer having a second method at each pin rather than just trying to replace standard method.

Although having this as the backup and then also replacing cable with elec solonoids could be handy and nice. I like more buttons to pus ;) . Definetly need a manual release, as with anti theft etc, my car can run the battery down in 3 weeks if I forget to plug in the trickle charger..

Another item to add to winter work...

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Right!!!! :D

I figured i'd fit a real simple, quick and nothing fussy Failsafe cable!

I went to my local cycle shop and bought two derailier cables:

derailier-cables.JPG

The intention was too drill a 2mm hole in the moving part of each

latch, thread the cable through and then route somewhere under the

car at a good enough angle to be able to pull the latch. The logic is

sound but the passenger side latch needs pulling towards the light

cluster (thats bolted on from the inside), and the Driver side latch

needs to be pulled towards the fuel filler (yes, thats where i was

gonna hide the end of that one).

Pictured is the passenger latch. Green bit stays still, Red bit moves:

(see the little bolt that hold the cable end)

lh-side.JPG

Pictured is the drivers latch. Green bit stays still, Red bit moves:

rh-side.JPG

Truth is, they need quite a good pull, so the cable would HAVE to be routed

out at an angle that allows this, and more importantly, you would have to then

(forever and ever) insure it was always free and unhindered. I had visions of

routing them to one easy location and that pulling from there would be ok, but

the more i looked at it, the 'failsafe' would require constant care that i was not

prepared to offer.

:(

Then i noticed the locator pins had slotted ends! What if you could make a small

hole (20mm!) in the floor each side and get a long screwdriver through to unscrew

the whole pin? (by the way, i find no humour in the first picture)...

locator.JPG

The plan would be to drill a hole in line with the pin like this:

latch-hole.JPG

Now, i thought i'd cracked it here!, but when i tried to unscrew them (even

with the lock nut loose) they were not moving, no way, ever, sorry mate.

:(

I decided today. if it were me, i'd go through the lights or behind

the number plate plynth.

:)

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Really interesting stuff Paul.... Amazing Diagrams :D , very impressive. :)

Yeah - that cable does need quite a lot of force to release the boot catches. You don't realise just how much force you need without a pivot until you try tugging it without one. It was a nice idea though!

I've got my lights on order at the moment but they could take a week to get here. In the interim its just gonna be short little journeys.

Dunno what the best policy is on backup systems atm, I do favour the mechanical approach (still works with loss of power, etc.) But the solenoid ideas are pretty smart and nifty too. B)

EspritMiltonKeynes - ironically now lives in Edinburgh London (SE4)

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Camera? What do you mean?  :D

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

He means this thread:

http://www.glcforum.com/ukesprit/forums/in...?showtopic=1360

Teigan is thinking like keyhole surgery, a man of talent. By the time he's finished no doubt he will have installed a model sailing ship with sails,rigging & everything!

(all carefully installed through a bottle neck sized opening).

:)

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Camera? What do you mean?  :D

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

a vidcam will give you realtime feedback on where your tool is. the inexpensive computer webcams operate in low light conditions, so a little l.e.d. torch dropped in will give you plenty to look at. that's how i got to the latch, unfortunately i was at the wrong angle. you are not. give it a try.

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Interesting stuff Paul.

As some of you know, the hatch cable broke on my X180 last year and I got it open again by unbolting the boot floor. In my car, the cable was fouling the passenger side latch and I needed mole grips to spring the latch - no secondary cable was going to do the job.

So I was taking the boot floor out of my S4 last night as a prelude to doing another job and it was pretty clear that I would have been struggling had the cable broken on this car. I could still have dremelled / ground off the bolts as there is actually quite a lot of room under there, especially with my sports exhaust but it would be even easier if you remove the zorst altogether.

Anyway, in case the boot cable ever did break, my plan was to ditch the old rawnut / screw arrangement in favour of nuts and bolts with the nuts bonded to the inside of the boot. I'm not sure if I can find an adhesive strong enough to handle the torque ahould it ever get rusty though...

This would also mean that getting the boot floor out becomes harder, so I was thinking about cutting a slot in the end of the bolts so that they could still be unscrewed - any comments?

There has to be a better way than cutting holes in your car...

Edited by x6gas

Ian

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By the way James, do I take it that you plan on smashing your lights and going in that way? If so, be sure you can get past the interior cover - it's probably easy enough to do, but could be a late frustration... not sure how similar our cars are, but let me know if you want photos / details of what you might need to do...

If you do go in this route, would you mind taking some photos and letting me know how it goes. I want to put a summary of the various methods (hole behind the number plate / boot floor / removing the hatch / smashing the lights) on my website if you are interested...

Cheers and good luck, Ian

Ian

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okay. everything's puss 'n boots again. i ground off the assorted nuts and squirreled in through the floor. got my arm stuck and was trapped for hours. i asked a 12 year old girl to run for help, but she just made fun of me and stole my shoes. ever have one of those days?

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i didn't look very threatening wearing a car, so my honor would have been safe. not that there is much honor in being shoeless and shouting, "i'm gonna tell on you". luckily i was prone, or i'd have lost the trousers too.

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i didn't look very threatening wearing a car, so my honor would have been safe.  not that there is much honor in being shoeless and shouting, "i'm gonna tell on you".  luckily i was prone, or i'd have lost the trousers too.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Yes. the lack of trousers would deffo made the situation worse...

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Reminds me of the young kid who got his tongue frozen to the insides of a freezer (trying to lick some spilt icecream up). Luckily the phone was next to the fridge, but everytime he rang the emergency services they just hung up thinking it was some weirdo wasting their time. Must admit - would be pretty difficult trying to talk with your tongue stretched right out.

Back to the subject.

I was looking at my son's RC Car and noticed the split pin thingys (don't know what they're called). If we removed all the nuts and drilled a hole through the bolt and stuck in these pins with some washers, it might be a tight enough fit so as not to cause vibration of the boot floor.

timscar014.jpg

But once again it does not solve the problem as it stands.

I'm still partial to going through the boot floor - least amount of permanent damage.

Simon  (94 S4)      My Esprit will be for sale in late 2017

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