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Before getting bodywork ready for a re-spray I was wondering if it is best to use normal car body fillers or should I use some thing specially made for fiberglass?

For larger chip I guess I should use fiberglass?

Any info would be most welcomed

Buddsy :thumbsup:

 

"Belief is the enemy of knowing" - Crrow777

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:thumbsup: HI Buddsy,

as Mike Wilkins says in his book... Isopon P40 for big gap and hole and Isopon P38 for the finishing touch.

If you need to have a smooth finish on your repair after laying new GRP, it will be good to use a finishing veil of fibreglass.(very very thin) and a little resin on it, then you can use the P38 filler on it for the perfection.

I'm starting the bodywork on my car and I have read some books about it and I have take a lot of infos from fiberglass specialist.

When the body is ready for the paint the only choice you have to achieve a perfect work is the Polyester spray filler (2/3/4 coats) and then primer and body colour.

The problem for DIY is that the Poly spray filler contains Isocyanato and can be sprayed only by professional because it's very dangerous for your health.

If you have a respirator maske this will be not a problem.(especially on open air)

The poly filler must be sanded ALWAYS DRY with a maske.

Hope this helps and put some pics of the working progress!

Ciao :thumbsup:

Edited by USAndretti42
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Thanks for the info ghe67, what was the book you were refering to? I just searched amazon for Mike Wilkins and I got nothing on cars or bodywork? I would be interested in finding good books on fiberglass body work.

:thumbsup:

 

"Belief is the enemy of knowing" - Crrow777

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Thanks for the info ghe67, what was the book you were refering to? I just searched amazon for Mike Wilkins and I got nothing on cars or bodywork? I would be interested in finding good books on fiberglass body work.

:thumbsup:

The book is: How to Restore Fiberglass Bodywork (Osprey Restoration Guide, 3) by Miles Wilkins (Hardcover - Feb 1985)

I have bought it on ebay some months ago and now is unavailable.

Take a look on ebay, sometimes it is on sale.

There was another two copies some days ago but are very rare and wanted.

If you are in trouble to find it, let me know, I will make a full copy to send you. :thumbsup:

Ciao.

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Guest Troy Halliday

Not sure how much you have dealt with fibrglass repairs but please bear in mind that star crack and cracks in the gelcoat must be ground back and repaired properly. Just filling over these will not work, well not for long.

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Thanks Troy

I am keen to do a good job so am starting gathering all this information :rofl:

Not sure how much you have dealt with fibrglass repairs but please bear in mind that star crack and cracks in the gelcoat must be ground back and repaired properly. Just filling over these will not work, well not for long.

 

"Belief is the enemy of knowing" - Crrow777

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  • 4 weeks later...

If your car is a metallic finish, the top layers are indeed a clear lacquer..this is, as you've found, prone to lifting off the main colour layers. The business of moisture ingress into glassfibre is usually due to osmosis, and gives rise to bubbles in the gel coat which, when opened, exude foul smelling liquid goo stuff. Yuk. Haven't seen it on my Esprit, but my boat was riddled with it and I spent a merry 40 hours over 4 days removing all the gel coat with a hot air gun and a scraper, before allowing the hull to dry out and finally recovering with glasscloth and epoxy. A lovely task!! Glad the boat was only 22' long. As for trying to repair your existing paintwork, I would think it's impossible...new paint is the way to go. I stripped the whole shell back to the gel coat and refinished it with ICI Belco cellulose paint...but you can't do that any more, Big Brother has decided cellulose is a no-no; unless you can get some on the basis of having a collector's car which used cellulose when new. So now we're all exposed to isocyanates and their health hazards...whatever you do, don't expose yourself to that stuff, make sure you use the correct apparatus. I was buying rubbing compound from an automotive paint suppliers once, and they opened a can of isocyanate based paint...that was enough to give a guy in the queue breathing difficulties as he had been sensitized to it by previous exposure..it's the same sort of thing as epoxy resins which are also hazardous.

Scientists investigate that which already is; Engineers create that which has never been." - Albert Einstein

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Thanks Molemot

My car is not a metalic ist is calypso red, and the lacquer type stuff looks to be above the paint? Could this be old wax or something? I will get some pics done and maybe somebody will know?

 

"Belief is the enemy of knowing" - Crrow777

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. I stripped the whole shell back to the gel coat and refinished it with ICI Belco cellulose paint...but you can't do that any more, Big Brother has decided cellulose is a no-no; unless you can get some on the basis of having a collector's car which used cellulose when new. So now we're all exposed to isocyanates and their health hazards...

I was under the impression that 2-pack has also been banned and the only paint now available is water based which requires a lot of expensive drying equipment? If you can find a company which still has supplies of cellulose and 2-pack you can still buy it until their stocks have been exhausted though.

Paul.

Lotus Esprit [meaning] a 1:1 scale Airfix kit with a propensity to catch fire

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I can't remember what I used but it's none of those mentioned BUT don't forget that body filler is meant to be just a very thin veneer for cosmetic reasons only not structural!! So as long as it sticks and is only a few mm thick I doubt it's that crucial, particularly when it's stuck on rough fibreglass (as opposed to smooth metal).

Paul.

Lotus Esprit [meaning] a 1:1 scale Airfix kit with a propensity to catch fire

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if you have cracks or spidering in the fibreglass you channel it out or v into it slightly, then fill with finre filler, sand it back, then you apply your standard bondo or high build filler, sand that back till all is nice and level, after that i dust on some high build tetrosyl primer, then wet and dry it back, when smooth and cleaned with pre paint i dust with paint, then start building the layers up, i put at least 8 layers of good covering paint on, leave for 24 hrs to completely dry then begin wet sanding.

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