Guest fvesprit Posted September 29, 2007 Report Share Posted September 29, 2007 (edited) Problem solved - temp gauge indicates high per IR. Edited March 4, 2008 by fvesprit Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iainskea 30 Posted September 29, 2007 Report Share Posted September 29, 2007 Thermostat sounds most likely, and easiest / cheapest to check. I had a faulty temp gauge - reading hot, when the engine wasn't hot at all. You can check the engine with a thermocouple lead to certain multimeters, or with one of those infrared guns at several points to confirm the actual running temp. Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
USAndretti42 311 Posted October 7, 2007 Report Share Posted October 7, 2007 Before you start taking things apart, make sure your petrol gauge isn't going up at the same time as the water temperature. That would be the sign of a faulty voltage stabiliser. Nearly caused me heart failure when it happened to me because the fuel gauge is hidden by the steering wheel so I didn't notice it moving in sympathy at first. If the car has been running fine and this suddenly happened, I would definitely check that first (especially as you can do it without opening the engine cover :laughing: ). Quote S4 Elan, Elan +2S, Federal-spec, World Championship Edition S2 Esprit #42, S1 Elise, Excel SE Link to post Share on other sites
WayneB 2 Posted October 8, 2007 Report Share Posted October 8, 2007 Chris, If you intend to exploit the high level of performance the Turbo Esprit produces, I would strongly advise you to at least remove and have the radiator flushed / flow checked to ensure it will supply the level of cooling it was designed too My 24 year old car (1983 Turbo Esprit with 54,000 kms ) developed a small rad leak when I first got it and I pulled the rad and took it to a rad shop to have it soldered , but was quite shocked to find that when it was flow tested the core was over a third blocked with hard calcium deposits. It was recored for $200 and the car now runs cool even when its thrashed, so it made sense to me to have it done before it causes any engine damage due to overheating. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AJay 1 Posted October 9, 2007 Report Share Posted October 9, 2007 Hi chris Definitely don't run too long if it is reaching 105. the S3 turbo dances with detonation when running perfect, if you run at 105 and run at full boost you will get detonation. Of course it could be the voltage stabiliser as mentioned or it could be the sender itself. (both of these have caused me problems) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stagowner 0 Posted October 9, 2007 Report Share Posted October 9, 2007 Hi chris My 85 turbo did exactly the same, ran at normal temp, until it got on the motorway and at high revs the gauge climbed towards the red, turned out was radiator, fitted a new 3 core - never gets hot nick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest fvesprit Posted November 18, 2007 Report Share Posted November 18, 2007 (edited) Edited March 3, 2008 by fvesprit Quote Link to post Share on other sites
matk 17 Posted November 19, 2007 Report Share Posted November 19, 2007 I'm wondering if you have an airlock now after the work you've caried out. Find a steep slope and park the car nose down. Alternatively jack it up at the rear. Idle the engine till the fans come on and then check for water level. If it cools with airflow, and the fans come on OK, then seems to me rad and thermostat are fine. Quote Regards Mat Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Troy Halliday Posted November 19, 2007 Report Share Posted November 19, 2007 Have you checked to see if the pipes at the rad are getting hot. If you have replaced most of the components and beld/burped the water system. The it could be possible that your water pump is on it's way out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Brandt 0 Posted November 23, 2007 Report Share Posted November 23, 2007 Do any of you guys know what should the flow rate specification for the turbo? I quess it would be something like liters per minute at a specified pressure. The other thing I was wondering about, is how many degrees should the water temperature drop, if one measured the inlet and outlet temperature. There must be many varibles, but surely there must be a rought average? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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