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Jonathan

Anyone done the water pump ?

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Rad = Gone pop.

Starter motor = dead, nearly shorted out.

Now I see a puddle of green liquid and lo, it's coming from the sodding pump !!!

(OK who ever has the voodoo doll of my car PLEASE STOP breaking bits on it !!)

Just wondered what the damage is on this, seems weird this and the rad have both gone at the same time...

I have put a new cap on the header tank but it's still 15KPA and it's working as the expansion bottle has been filling up.

Would the wrong anti-freeze do something like this ?

Just a bit worried this is the start of something nasty, ya see a few probs eminating from the same issue and the questions come asking.


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Has the anti-freeze always been the same type? I know that mixing the different types can cause problems and seeing that they contain rust inhibitors and lubricants that could possibly be your culprit?


88 Esprit NA, 89 Esprit Turbo SE, Evora, Evora S, Evora IPS, Evora S IPS, Evora S IPS SR, Evora 400, Elise S1, Elise S1 111s, Evora GT410 Sport

Evora NA

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Troy says do you want to send him a PM with more in depth details and he'll have a looksee when he's finished destroying my wheel nuts tomorrow..........


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See this is the reason why I'm fussy about what goes in the car.

The stuff I use is mono-ethanwhatsit glycol (as per the destructions) and at the recomended concerntration - it's BLUE.

This was changed with the cam belt and is bright green (seems a bit viscous as well) - odds are it's fine but when something like this goes wrong you have to start looking at whats changed. Can't see the cap has caused any issues as it's definatly operated to control the pressure and rated similarly. I would have thought the place that done the coolant would have known better to use anything but the right stuff as well.

I'm also aware that mixing can cause more problems so as you can understand I'm not exactly as happy as larry to find my cooling system springing leaks all over the place !

Tell Troy thanks but I'm not sure what else I can do at the moment, thinking about it just piddles me off at present.

Edited by Jonathan

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Havent a clue - I could call the place up that did the job but they'll just say the 'right stuff' so unless I am wrong I have no way of really telling.

This is why I like to do the fluids myself becuase I know what's gone in.


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I think the waterpumps have a limited life anyway. There's a spring-loaded carbon seal on the shaft that has probably failed.

Even with inhibitors etc after several years the spring's probably kaput. Is this the car that had the corroded pipe fittings a couple of years ago?


DanR

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Hehe this is like live chat !

If you're talking about the header tank tubes, yes - I punched them out and used stainless ones instead as the PLONKER who had the car before must have kept it along side the titanic ! The corrosion on them was crazy - likly hood is I am picking up problems Mr Rustisface left behind.

I guess at least this is all happening now and not 1/2 way up the country at silly MPH waiting for everyhting to go kabooom.

Just wonder if it's more beneficial to have the engine out and do the whole job properly, I'll get around to it when I get a spare 5 minutes :respect:


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http://vulcangrey.lotuscolorado.com/galler...mName=waterpump

http://vulcangrey.lotuscolorado.com/galler...umName=radiator

Yes the pumps tend to go ~50-60,000miles. It's probably the internal carbon seal, though it may also be the seal against the block. You can rebuild the pump, just replacing the seal parts and bearing if you wish. And replacing it all with the engine in place is possible.

The main thing to remember is heat the pump in an oven to press the bearing in and out, or you can crack the pump housing.

When the seal goes, the pump weeps out of one of 2 weep holes.

There are also several hoses in that area that can leak, or get pinholes, or burst. Replace them now. I replaced every hose in my car for ~$120 buying all the hoses on this list from the local auto parts places.

http://vulcangrey.lotuscolorado.com/lotushoses.xls

Only one hose from the chassis to the WP is Lotus specific.

Lotus removed the WP face gasket from the manual, but some still use it to help seal the pump. In my case the liquid gasket wasn't enough, so I will use the paper gasket along with wellseal this next time.

And as you said, it's bad to mix different types of coolant as they will counteract eachother's anti corrosion properties. They can also coagulate and cause other problems. ALso I got rid of all the steel hose interconnects in the system and in the chargecooler system.


Travis

Vulcan Grey 89SE

My Lotus Photo and Projects Album

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If those pipes were badly corroded I'd be betting your spring for the carbon seal is broken from rust.

You can do the change without taking the engine out. If any of the bolts feel seized then you may have to remove the engine rather than risk snapping them. There's also one bolt that is virtually impossible to access. replace it with a socket head bolt when you're re-assembling everything.

Hey if you do take out the engine, make those chassis brackets from the engine mounting plates to the body too. I'm sure you will like them.


DanR

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Been there...done that....Just fixed my water pump 2 weeks ago on my 91SE, while in the car (38k miles). Definately very do-able, but still a bear of a job (I want to kill the lotus engineer who decided to put a ledge on the firewall)....took about 2-2.5 full days (and this was with the help of a Lotus expert who done this job 2-3 times). The actual rebuild of the water pump was only 2 hours of this.

My Tips:

There are two different types of water pump bearings, make sure you have both on hand. Also the square pully on the water pump will break as you replace the bearings, so have that on hand. My impellor had some rust on it, but it wasn't bad. Since your replacing the water pump, you might as well replace the timing belt, hoses, thermostat as well belts. When putting on the belts, we found most of them had to be turned on. JAE parts says they have had better luck with a water pump gasket instead of just hylomar itself.

Make sure you secure the timing gears...even with a half dozen ties on the gears, they still managed to move and we had to retime the engine from the flywheel. (which took some time to get perfect).

I also took the opportunity to switch coolants - from the nasty green stuff to a low phospate, long life Zerex G05/Mercedes Benz Coolant. It's a HOAT techology coolant that unlike phosphate free Dexcool won't sludge up. Red Toyota coolant looks like a good choice, but harder to get.

Good Luck and May the Force be with you!

-Chandra

91SE (w/new water pump, timing belt, ignition coils)

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On my car the liquid sealant had gone ( 94MY). Steffen at R&B told me that it is a common thing. The liquid seal seems to dissolve way before the radial gaskets seem to give-in...

just an observation. :)


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Jon,

The Evans NPG-R is a waterless coolant, but just like you I can never remember the name of what the actual type is.

I have used it in conjunction w/ an electric waterpump, and the stock waterpump completely removed. In its place is merely a block-off plate w/ a hose attachment.

I wanted to use waterless stuff, thinking that corrosion would be nil w/o water. So far in 3+ years I've noticed no problems.

Look it up online, it may be worthwhile.

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Eventually won't even dist H2O allow rust & corrosion to form and perhaps even promote electrolysis?

One thing to be said for H2O is that it transfers heat better than standard run of the mill coolants.

Go ahead....take a look @ the Evans website....I know ya want to! <_<

BTW: I have no affiliation w/ Evans!

Edited by Esprit Aviation

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Eventually won't even dist H2O allow rust & corrosion to form and perhaps even promote electrolysis?

One thing to be said for H2O is that it transfers heat better than standard run of the mill coolants.

Go ahead....take a look @ the Evans website....I know ya want to! <_<

BTW: I have no affiliation w/ Evans!

If the coolant/water mix is the correct ratio of 25-50% and it is changed often enough, then there won't be corrosion. The coolant is there to prevent corrosion, lubricate the waterpump, and prevent freezing. The water absorbs the heat (well, better than the coolant).


Travis

Vulcan Grey 89SE

My Lotus Photo and Projects Album

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