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Buddsy

B72 FOE Restoration Begins

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Well a few of you might already know that about a month or so ago I bought B72 FOE a Turbo Esprit from 1985. She was bought as a project car un-running and had been last used in 1994. I had promised my wife before a start working on the Lotus I would decorate the lounge first!!! I bought the car with some essential engine parts missing

Edited by Buddsy

 

"Belief is the enemy of knowing" - Crrow777

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Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.

well congrats on the purchase scott, now then..

first things first, get some liner clamps on, before you remove the engine. once the engine is out, strip it completely, take the bottom end off all the bearings seals etc.

once this is done give it a good steam clean, then why not upgrade the pistons to hc pistons, i know troy has a set for sale complete new boxed. then get the crankshaft checked over for spec, and then get correct bearings seals etc, before fitting new pistons have the liners de-glazed and de-carbonised then honed and then re-cleaned in a pressure steam engine block washer cabinet, the pople who do the honing should have one as standard for cleaning after doing the work.

with the bottom end rebuilt, and the new pistons in etc you can then get on with things at a much more relaxed rate. the above is the most important when rebuilding the engine, follow it as spec in the maual, it details the rebuild procedure in there also, if your stuck we are here to answer any questions.

simon

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Thanks for your advice Si. It is my intention to rebuild the bottom end as you have described. One question I am trying to get my head around is the liners, are they bonded (stuck) in with locktight etc? Is this why you are sugesting I use liner clamps before removing the engine? Also what is the advantage of using the HC spec pistons? Am I right in thinking they have the gudgen pin higher up towards the crown to make them stronger? Would this effect the compression rate? I guess that depends on the length of the con rod and the height the piston comes up in bore???

I know Im showing my ignorance but what can I say....if I dont know,I know many of you will lol :(


 

"Belief is the enemy of knowing" - Crrow777

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The HC setup uses Nikasil liners with the pistons, not sure how HC pistons (and I assume compression) would work out with LC liners. I'm guessing Troy will know. If it does alter the compression then larger carbs may be needed.

If you do go the whole way and conver to new liners as well, they really withstand the friction well. i don't know when my were replaced but the honing marks were still evident when I rebuilt mine.

Re liner clamps, you're best off getting them / making them (I'm sure that's more your way forward), as that way you will not upset the bore seals of the new liners when you're fitting the engine back together, even if you have to leave it for a while between fitting liners and gettingt he head on.

Andy

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Hi Buddsy,

It seems that engine removal is a mandatory skill for G owners...

I made a small list of notes, mainly for me when I put it back in the car, you might find them useful, particularly a couple of things right at the end of the page.

I note that you have the cooling mod fitted which is good, we may even have a posh silicone hose for that by the time you refit.

Best of luck

Ambrose

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hc pistons can be used fine in the older liners, theres no issue with doing that. i have still got my standard carbs on mine and no issues there either.

now then head gaskets, i spoke with great length with mr paul matty the otherday, and there is something you all should be aware of. if you have your head skimmed then you have to be aware of the liner lip at the top of the liners. when youthen goto fit your gasket after skimming there will be a difference, thats why there are new layered gaskets available that will come in varying degrees of thickness layers these take into account the head work and liner lip measurements prior to fitting. now these gaskets are not cheap but they are very good and come reccomended by paul as hes fitted them to many esprits of different models over the years.

when you have your crankshaft checked and the radi measured you can then work out against those as to the spec what bearing sizes/thicknesses you need, if a section of crank needs work then its material taken away you then need to compensate that area on the bearing meet point.

now then when you fit the seals there is a little sealant compound you can use to add a double seal there, im trying to find out the name, product code and sale point in the uk, its normally used on gt cars for racing and is very high temp and resistant to pretty much everything.

strip and rebuild your waterpump and oil pump you can get them cleaned up first in an ultrasonic cleaner this will remove all the crud that a normal wash wont, this can also be done with the bcarbs i can reference you to a guy who specialises in stripping down, cleaning rebuilding and balancing prior to return.

before you do send them off, take the top of them off and check the float towers to make sure they arent broken on one side, if they are he can fix them, let him know they are both intact before you send them also.

gearbox, well its up to you what you do with this as you wont know what shape its in until the cars running, but if you are going to work on this or have it looked at i would speak with harry martens about a rebuild kit, he can sell you a complete rebuild kit and get it done over here or send it to him and get it back like new, usually its the 2nd synchro that gets the most damage, he will sell you just a 2nd synchro kit if thats all you want to do.

blast the gearbox casing down and give it a good scrub, then you have a choice of what to do with it then piant or powder coat, mine is coming out soon as im getting a gearbox kit from harry in the new year so while its out i will get it powder coated at a place just 9 miles from me.

cam towers, clean the mating faces where they meet the head, be careful, get them checked for trueness also while the heads being checked over, with the head i would go for the bronze valve guides with the pitting inside that catch the oil in them, these area much better upgrade and guide and will out perform the stock ones. i have them in mine so does mike sekinger in his gt car and a few others.

in the back of your gearbox is the reverse light switch its bolted into the back on top of the rear plate, take this out check the terminals and put a meter accross the pins then push the plunger in and out a few times, if the reading is sporradic as closed bin it and replace, mine went for no reason other than its gone and at

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Thanks for all the info so far!! Looks like I got plenty of work to be getting on with. Can one man get this much work done in a life time lol

Ambrose thanks for the list detailing the steps for the engine removal, thats my main goal at the moment get the engine out.

ref cooling mod...I have it? I have seen people talking about it but have not been able to find out what it is?

Thannks again Buddsy


 

"Belief is the enemy of knowing" - Crrow777

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Thanks for that ambrose now I understand.

Ok Engine cranes?!! What model do any of you have is it any good big enough? Price where from etc etc. I been looking to buy one but I think I need one with at least 1300mm reach to be in a suitable place for lifting the engine


 

"Belief is the enemy of knowing" - Crrow777

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I've got one you can borrow for a few months if you want.

Yea? I had planned to buy one but I would mind the borrowing option if it wouldnt be too much hastle? Have you used it to remove your engine? From an Esprit I mean!! lol


 

"Belief is the enemy of knowing" - Crrow777

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Yea? I had planned to buy one but I would mind the borrowing option if it wouldnt be too much hastle? Have you used it to remove your engine? From an Esprit I mean!! lol

Yep, and a Landy, and a 406 3l engine into the back of a van.

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Buddsy,

If you end up wanting to buy one, merely for the toy collection then I can vouch for this one off ebay, worked fine for me and was delivered very quickly...

here

you even get a engine stand and load leveller thrown in.

Remember take off your bumper, I didnt and now Ive got a scratch/crack thanks to the crane slamming into it despite the cardboard buffer

Ambrose

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That Lifter looks a good deal. The engine leveler will definately come in handy, but I have to say that stand doesn't look to sturdy, with the single central bar accross the bottom. being a 2 t varient will allow you to extend the beam, like I did with mine, so you shouldn't have to take the bumper off because of lack of clearance. However tis a good idea just the same. My whole package cost nearer


The need for speed can be found with a Lotus

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Reason I started asking about engine cranes was I saw the size of Dazmans in his thread and thought "that looks a big bugger!" then I measured the distance from the rear bumper to the midldle of the engine and the one I was going to buy from Machine mart started looking to small.

Andy I will borrow yours if thats ok? I will buy and engine stand, I was thinking of getting the heavy duty stand from machine mart for


 

"Belief is the enemy of knowing" - Crrow777

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Reason I started asking about engine cranes was I saw the size of Dazmans in his thread and thought "that looks a big bugger!" then I measured the distance from the rear bumper to the midldle of the engine and the one I was going to buy from Machine mart started looking to small.

Andy I will borrow yours if thats ok? I will buy and engine stand, I was thinking of getting the heavy duty stand from machine mart for

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If we put the barn in the street it will give me abit more space to work in!!! :)

Andy does it fold up cpould I get it in my van? not the barn...


 

"Belief is the enemy of knowing" - Crrow777

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Ok so here are some picture I took last night of my dirty dirty engne!

Veiw of engine with brakes removed, view of engine looking dirty, heat sheild and engine mount....looking ok to me lol. And veiw of a bit I am trying to get off, the little cable under the clutch slave cyinder? I dont know what it is? is it the choke or throtle cable? Any hoo does anybody know how it removes? Engine end or other end, just as it looks if I undo the two lock nuts I dont think the head on the end will go through the hole...but could well be wrong!

OK so this morning I mounted my head up on my mill and skimmed the main face as it was suffering from a little water corrosion and there was evidence of the previous gasket blowing. So here is a picture of mthe head set read to be skimmed.

Being machined, luckily the head was flat and only needed 0.15mm to be skimmed to remove even the worst of the corrosion.

Looking all nice and flat...and shinney :devil:

Edited by Buddsy

 

"Belief is the enemy of knowing" - Crrow777

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Hi Budsy

That cable is the crossgate cable thing for gear selector mechanism. It will come off, mine was pretty rusty too, I'd advise getting exactly the right size spanners on it and not to mess with adustables. You can get the ring end of a spanner on the bit that faces you. In the end I went out and got a new spanner set which included sizes in the 19-24mm range.

That's one hell of a well equipped garage you have BTW

Ambrose

Edited by _ambrose_

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Thanks ambrose I thought it may be something to do with gear selection as when I gave it a wiggle gearstick seamed to wobble. I will get correct spanners and try to get it off.

Workshop is one of the perks of owning a toolmaking business....more and more Lotus part are apearing under my bench every day. Just bought the exhaust manifold in as I was going to give it a quick sand blast. I was pleased all the lugs were on as I have read where they crack etc. But I just noticed the hole that attached to the turbo manifold part have been drilled out so thats annother job too.... where and when will it all end. That said I am enjoying it all at the moment. Makes driving my Nreg 1.3 fiesta all ok!! B)


 

"Belief is the enemy of knowing" - Crrow777

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scott ring paul matty tell him how much you ahve taken off and he will give you a special multi layer gasker for the head, also you need to check your liner lip height, ask him how , he will explain, this way you get a correctly spaced gasket for the head. dont just buy a standard replacement!!!!!!! speak to paul first.

also while the heads off change the valve guides for the pitted bronze ones, much better upgrade from standard valve guides.

quick question: when you skimmed the head did you do zero the tooling you used? did you use the point pin if your machine has one to varify the the elevation of the head surface in various points to make sure it was level accross the surface? just wondering as most digi mills have thisfeature i was wondering if you did this on yours if it found any thickness discrepency overall accross the head itself?

Edited by bigsi

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Si

I did check to make sure the head was flat before machining, I was supprised how flat it was actually only bout a thou out of flat 0.025mm in any dirrection with is pretty bloody good for an old ally casting. Nice grade of ally to machine too, I dont know who cast them maybe AJ in Norwich? They do look a nice bit of casting work. I was supprised especially with the reputation Lotus has round here lol :D


 

"Belief is the enemy of knowing" - Crrow777

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