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Glyn Harper

S4 window weather stips

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Hiya.

Any chance someone could do me a small favour and measure and give me the measurements for fitting the weather strip to the outside of the door?

This is for the S4 type door I'm after.

Ideally, just a measurement for the overall length of the metal strip, and where the metal strip starts on the door. (ie, 20mm from the back edge, or whatever).

Just transferring my old ones from my older 88 doors to my new S4 doors.... and all is not well :)(

Also, anyone ever replaced the rubber bit? I need to change my one as it's cut in the wrong place. I've got some new strip on it's way, but i'm not sure what the process it for getting the metal bits apart so I can fit the stuff.

Cheers,

Glyn.

Edited by Glyn Harper

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Guest Troy Halliday

The metal bits are attached through the rubber and GRP of the door with fixed studs on the metal strip and M3 nylocs. They are a bugger to get to and make sure you use plenty of WD40 or similar or it will mean rewelding on some studs (yep been there).

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My M3 nuts are loose, the issue I have is seperating the two metal strips that trap the rubber, so I can change the rubber strip.

They seem to have some studs with something squashed over them.. or something..

New complete units are a small fortune which is why I'm trying to get away with just the rubber. Only

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you're a star Peter.. really appreciate that!!

I've currently got mine fitted totally wrong.. no surprise there then! Does explain why the rubbers don't seem to line up :)

I fitted mine last night about an inch further in as it didn't look right at the front.

I don't suppose you could do one last favour and take a snap of the front could you?

Cheers.

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Any chance some one has manufactured a weather sheild that actually seals, the pictures are just like mine, doesn't seal around the frame bits.

I was going to try cuting around the frame, see if I can get it to seal better.

Roger :D


Life is like a sewer, what you get out of it, depends on what you put into it. (Tom Leahrer)

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This is why I'm having to change mine. For some reason my new doors line up slightly differently than my old ones, so the weather strip rubber doesn't line up with the frame. I did put some little cuts in the rubber to allow it to seal better, and now I know you can get a new rubber for

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Hi Glyn

I'm thinking replace my Weatherstrip rubber (Esprit 88) too, where you bought the weatherstrip ?

Y.Hotta

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Hi,

Found this thread, so I as I'm doing my weather strips thought I would show you my progress. I repaired mine because the metal retaining strips holding the rubber had rotted away, so I've made new ones from plastic, the rubber strips are ok and still have some life in them yet.

Passenger door stripped

Frame04.jpg

rusted away metal strip and seal

Frame02.jpg

Passenger door rebuilt with new painted strip

Frame07.jpg

Drivers door stripped last weekend

Frame08.jpg

Rail getting dismantled with new plastic strips

Frame09.jpg

Plastic strip shaped and ready to fit, with metal rail stripped ready to paint

Frame10.jpg

The metail rail was painted satin black today and will be assembled again later this week.

Owen

Edited by OwenGT3

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Great pics Owen, any chance of few, a bit of help, advice, experience on getting the windows out. I'm about to do this one, my passenger window has packed up and I thought I'd redo the weather strips at the same time, as well as relays for the motors, tidy up the frames and all that.

Roger.


Life is like a sewer, what you get out of it, depends on what you put into it. (Tom Leahrer)

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Hi,

after the first door, I found it easier to remove the window motor first before removing the window frame, gives you more room to move in the door once it's out. Once the motor is out and you have undone all the bolts retaining the frame, just pull up. It will require some fiddling, I found the front frame section to be the worse one for tightness, but used a crow-bar to move the frame beyond the bolt slots.

Tape the drop glass into the frame right up with duck tape or something as you remove it, also this is the best way when installing, the first door I fitted the glass after the frame was fitted and it was really tight getting it in the frame. The seal rail is just held on with small 5.5mm nuts, mine where all hand tight and could easily be undone with a socket and extension.

I've done all mine now, but the drivers door rubber didn't return as well as the passenger door to flat, so I will perhaps replace them next year, I was really only replacing the rusted metal sections, but next year I might be taking the car off the road to take the engine out and completely overhaul and refurbish a lot of stuff, so next year I will replace the rubbers, I hear SJ do replacement rubber seals.

The best thing is don't rush it, take your time building the door up and it will go together easily, they are not as bad as they seem. I fixed the check-strap on the drivers door, the spring steel was broken, so I just removed it and fitted some spacers on the strap, it works just as well now as it did before. One thing I did do in my doors is fit a load more sound deadening, Lotus just don't fit enough, my doors sound so much more solid now shutting, and as the deadening is only foam board it's hardly any extra weight.

Owen

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