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Vacuum pump


x6gas

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I'm having problems with performance anc lack of turbo boost.

Appears that the EBPV is not opening so it looks like either the capusule is shagged or there is a problem with the vacuum pump (or the vacuum supply or the solenoid switching between the EBPV and the throttle jack.

Question: how much such should the vacuum pump such. With the input the the vacuum pump disconnected I'm getting a gentle sucking - just enough to feel when you put a fingertip over the hose and let it go... Is this normal?

Ian

Ian

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- just enough to feel when you put a fingertip over the hose and let it go...  Is this normal?

Ian

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

From that it sounds like your pump is knackered. When you put your finger over the pipe you should really feel it sucking, also the pump should stop automatically when a vacuum is reached.

Also most people disconnect the EBPV and just wire it in the open position.

Jez

Mean Green S4s

I think therefore I am - Descartes

I'm pink therefore I'm spam - Eric Idle

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Hmmm,

The pump is running, but doesn't seem to stop even if I put my finger over the sucky bit...

Does seem that there is some kind of vacuum issue so I am hoping that this is the problem rather than anything more sinister...

Course this might just be something in addition to what else is wrong!

:)

Ian

Ian

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Look here:

http://www.glcforum.com/ukesprit/forums/in...?showtopic=1311

Seems the SE and S4 have different arrangements. Carl has been all

over the thing now and might well be some help to you?

:)

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Thanks for that Paul - hadn't read the entire thread... BTW, my S4 is an early one and so has the same layout as your SE.

Ian

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I have a brand new which I sold to Carl last week. Turns out he doesn't need it after all as his pump's fuse had gone. It's still unopened and Carl can sedn you direct if your pump's knackered.

pm if you need it.

Dave Walters

ps I can try and get Carl to post it as early as tommorrow if you definately want it.

Edited by superdavelotus
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Thanks for that Paul - hadn't read the entire thread...  BTW, my S4 is an early one and so has the same layout as your SE.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

while on this topic is there a certain vaccum suction it should be measuring? anyone know the value?

i have mine off at the moment as im doing a service and changinge gear linkages, thought it might be worth checking and i have a gauge that will do the job.

dave

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Guest ibayliss

Does anybody know from where / what car the vacuum pump comes from originally.

Mine is a second hand one that is bound to fail soon so I would like a spare.

I have the old one with a siezed motor - is it practical to repair it?

Any help would be welcome.

Thanks in advance

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Ian,

It is GM part number 10098493 - available from http://www.gmpartsdirect.com for $155

Not sure what other GM vechicles this was used on. Hold on to your old one, apparently an active contributor to this list (I'll let him identify himself if he wants!) is a dab hand and re-conditioning them.

Ian

Edited by x6gas

Ian

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Hmmm,

The pump is running, but doesn't seem to stop even if I put my finger over the sucky bit...

Does seem that there is some kind of vacuum issue so I am hoping that this is the problem rather than anything more sinister...

Course this might just be something in addition to what else is wrong!

:)

Ian

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Ian,

I tried exactly the same test and I couldnt appear to get the pump to stop running either. In fact its still doing this now. But Im not bothered about it as the only thing the vacuum pump is now doing on my s4 is some how operating the heater flaps for the passenger cabin.

If I where you Id dump the TJ and EBPV pipes altogether. Ill probably start a new thread on this but I now want to remove not just the pipes (which are now gone :) ) but the actual TJ itself along with the solenoids. When I say remove the TJ and EBPV solenoids I just mean short the wires to hopefully fool the ECM. At the moment I've just got them rattling around where yours are at present.

P.s If anyone wants a brand new still in origonal lotus pack vacuum pump let "Super"Dave know asap as im about to put it on eBay.

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From that it sounds like your pump is knackered. When you put your finger over the pipe you should really feel it sucking, also the pump should stop automatically when a vacuum is reached.

Also most people disconnect the EBPV and just wire it in the open position.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

my pump seems really noisey.

is this normal?

when the ignition is on it cuts out after about 5 or 6 seconds. does that sound about right?

dave

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my pump seems really noisey.

is this normal?

when the ignition is on it cuts out after about 5 or 6 seconds. does that sound about right?

dave

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

With the rear deck open on mine I can just about hear the pump when I'm sat in the drivers seat, and I've got pretty good hearing.

If that's any help !

Jez

Mean Green S4s

I think therefore I am - Descartes

I'm pink therefore I'm spam - Eric Idle

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Noisy? - No that's not right. Should be so quiet that it will look like it is not working at all....

Oh no, my mistake, that's coz mine isn't working at all! :)

Yep, they're reknowned for being noisy. Cutting off after 5 seconds is also about right, I believe.

Ian

Ian

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5 seconds seems a bit quick.

Since finding all the vacuum leaks on mine from ignition on, it runs for at least 30 then cuts out, after that it cycles for a few seconds on then 30 seconds off and so on to keep the vacuum.

Jez

Mean Green S4s

I think therefore I am - Descartes

I'm pink therefore I'm spam - Eric Idle

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5 seconds seems a bit quick.

Since finding all the vacuum leaks on mine from ignition on, it runs for at least 30 then cuts out, after that it cycles for a few seconds on then 30 seconds off and so on to keep the vacuum.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

thanks for confirming ian.

can anyone else confirm approx what time it takes for it to cut out?

cheers

dave

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Hi all,

If your pump aren't switching off then either you have a bad air leak or your pump's valve/diaphram is knackered. Sooner rather then later, the pump will burn out as it's not designed to run for long periods.

It should run for a few seconds about every 10 seconds or so. If it's 5 then you have a minute air leak. My S4s ran every 5 seconds and it didn't worry me.

Also if you operate the heater flaps then it will buzz until it's brought the vacuum pressure back up.

I tested a pump and it sucks about 15 hg (is this ? of mercury), anyway you know what I mean.

I can fix pumps by making one good one from two broken ones. I need people old broken ones though. If the motor has burned out from one unit and the diaphram is split on another then I can build a working one.

It's a sealed unit and most people will likely to damage the unit trying to take it apart.

Carl, if yours is running constantly then ring me and we'll discuss.

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I've done some tests tonight. My pump is working perfectly. Turn the ignition on, put my finger tight over the end of the vacuum pump and after thirty seconds it goes off. I left it therefor a minute or two and it didnt come back on. removed my finger and the pump kicked in again. Cover the end and within about 5-10seconds it switched off again.

So great news for me, my pump is fine! :angry:

However, Plug in my vacuum hose to the pump and it never stops running. So I need to track down my leak. A job for the weekend I think but at least I can now begin testing for leaks knowing my pump is working correctly.

Thanks for all the help guys.

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I've done some tests tonight. My pump is working perfectly. Turn the ignition on, put my finger tight over the end of the vacuum pump and after thirty seconds it goes off. I left it therefor a minute or two and it didnt come back on. removed my finger and the pump kicked in again. Cover the end and within about 5-10seconds it switched off again.

So great news for me, my pump is fine!  :angry:

However, Plug in my vacuum hose to the pump and it never stops running. So I need to track down my leak. A job for the weekend I think but at least I can now begin testing for leaks knowing my pump is working correctly.

Thanks for all the help guys.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

carl

almoast certainly it will be the elbow joints. one goes onto the map sensor behind the right carpet panel were the ecu is and the other coming off the end of the fuel line. those two were completely buggered on mine. best to take the charge cooler off. you will probably find the plastic t-piece underneath that may be loose too. just tighten it up and bobs ya granny and all that!!!

just have a real good scour round. there is another elbow on the other end of the fuel line, opposite to the first one i sad, but that may be ok

dave

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carl

almoast certainly it will be the elbow joints. one goes onto the map sensor behind the right carpet panel were the ecu is and the other coming off the end of the fuel line. those two were completely buggered on mine. best to take the charge cooler off. you will probably find the plastic t-piece underneath that may be loose too. just tighten it up and bobs ya granny and all that!!!

just have a real good scour round. there is another elbow on the other end of the fuel line, opposite to the first one i sad, but that may be ok

dave

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Hi Dave,

Origonally my vacuum pump was connected to the TJ, EBPV and a line through to the heater flaps at the front of the car.

The pipe you are refering to does not connect to the vacuum pump although it does use the same type of pipe. Your right about the joints on this pipe though, I've already had to change them. :angry:

But back to the pump. I've since removed all pipe work connected to the TJ and EBPV leaving just the thin black pressure line that runs to the front of the car and this is connected now directly to the pump. I have already traced this cable as far as the cabin and it looks ok to that point. But Im fairly sure I have a leak at the joint from the vacuum pump to this thin pipe.

But, please correct me on any off this if Ive got it mixed up.

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