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Distributor 43D, removing baseplate in situ possible? - Engine/Ancilliaries - The Lotus Forums #ForTheOwners Jump to content

Distributor 43D, removing baseplate in situ possible?


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When the dizzy base plate (only two screws?) is unscrewed with distributor not removed, is there a problem when pulling it?

Anything falling apart behind that?

Anything else has to be out of the way before pulling the baseplate?

Has anybody exchanged the cable between Hall sensor and connector?

Can a new cable be soldered easily to the Hall sensor?

Standard cable or special for hot temperatures?

The cable coming from AB14 to the connector is already checked and has no cable break.




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Rolf, mate..pull the distributor and get it on the's only one 10mm nut holding the clamp to the block, and it just comes straight out..then you can get at things properly. Don't know about Hall effect sensors, mine has the Lumenition photo transitor and l.e.d and I have successfully changed the wires on that. May need some surgery to get at the connections and some epoxy to cover up the repairs..I used silicone sleeving over the wires as temperature protection. Good luck..oops, I mean "Hals un Beinbruch!"

Scientists investigate that which already is; Engineers create that which has never been." - Albert Einstein

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Hi Rolf

Yep, I've changed the 'tails' on my trigger. I Simply cut the old wires and soldered in new leads. The joint is inside the dizzy. Then to make the repair look professional I used heatshrink to cover the soldered joints. Simply used normal automotive cable. I did this a couple of years ago with no issues since. This is actually a fairly common fix on the saloons which have a vacuum module allowing the wires to flex and fracture internally.

What problem have you got so you need to do this? Ah I now see you are looking for a break in the cable. I assume you have checked the resistance across the trigger? (The allowable value is specified in the manual)



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Hi John, Thanks for the encouragement to pull the dizzy. Have never done, so its time to try something new. Was a bit nervous to get it back again. It was a hint from you from another topic, which pointed me in the direction of the connectors (already cleaned) to check when having problems in this area, think it is a cable break.

Steve, your hints are rounding off the picture. Have not checked the resitance there, but due to crazy velocity related ignition problems I assume it is the air flow from a special fresh air vent blowing across the top of the engine which is moving the cable with faster speed more and more. Disappears when slowing down. Will look for the value in the manual and check before pulling the dizzy.

Cheers, Rolf

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