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Jussi

Cylinder head

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I need fast answer,

We took the car to Jussi's place yesterday. Plan was to change those exhaust manifold gaskets. Jussi just called, he's been fixing the car whole afternoon. He can't take those bolts away from exhaust manifold.

He asked if it's possible to take the cylinder head away without removing the engine. As I have said earlier, there are some leaks on that cylinder head, it would be a wise decision to fix those at the same time.

Sorry haven't been on the forum on last weeks....been in very bad flu at home and after that been very busy.

Thanks for quick answers :smoke:

Jussi

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Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.

Freaking me out with the use of the 3rd person - but:

What leaks around the head are you meaning - head gasket or cam block to head leaks?

Iain

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Iain - Jussi is Jussi's mechanic friend, they have the same name so he's not going mad!

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Isn't he still trying to get back from Gt Yarmouth....Mat? :smoke:

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Back to Jussi's question.

Yes you can remove the head without removing the engine.

Remove the exhaust from the exhaust manifold.

Remove the cam towers (and belts )

Remove the inlet manifold.

Remove the coolant hoses attached to the head.

That should give enough room to get to the head nuts.

You may need to swing the engine slightly to clear the studs, but yuo probably don't need to remove/ loosen engine mounts to do this.

Andy

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From what I read, Jussi can't get the exhaust nuts off and now wants to just take the head and exhaust off in one piece (for better access to the exhaust bolts maybe). This happened to me recently.

If this is the case, I think the chassis cross member gets in the way of the exhaust manifold when you lift the head. Can you undo the engine mount in this case to move the engine slightly?

Iain

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Iain, that's exactly what I meant :smoke:

I think it's possinle to loosen engine to swing it a bit.

We will need the gaskets to the upper case, so this seems to be huge project again :smoke: I wil need some help to identify all those gaskets....

Yes it seems that those bolts are impossible to take out from the head :pizza:

But those leaks are also one problem, so Jussi's opinion is that we should fix those also, cause there are so much job anyway.

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I agree Jussi, seems like the job can slow down a bit now since you need a gasket kit anyway.

To get the exhaust manifold nuts off, try a little heat from a butane torch or soak them in penatrine for a few days once you get the head off.

Make sure you drain the coolant before taking the head off or 'sloosh' everywhere!

Iain

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Does anyone have a part number for that "gasket kit"? It would be a good idea to order it already (from S.J Sportscars) :smoke:

I think there aren't any problems to take out those exhaust manifold bolts, they are already loose and two of them have vanished.

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Sorry to hear Jussi !

As I can remember it's very hard work to Remove the exhaust from the exhaust manifold (esp. old type) !

I have no id

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Thanks Yasuo, but I want to drive my car THIS summer :P

Summer is almost here, and I have heard rumours that there's been on the road one V8 Esprit, near me B)

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hi jussi, i took my head off with the engine in the car, its in my thread in the restoration section, what i did.

drained all the oil, and used an oil syringe to remove excess from cam towers, centred everything and then undid alternator, then undid the cam tensioner and took the belt offremoved the inlet head also, basically as andy has said in his post. you will see lots of pictures in my thread if that helps you.

then took both towers off, when the towers were off i then undid the engine mount bolts and removed them, i used a pry bar to move the engine over about 2 inches with a jack supporting it underneath. i was then able to just lift the head with the manifold on straight out, i did have help at the time but it did come out.

also to get the manifold nuts off without removing the engine, take the side panels off, and the engine bay wrap panel out also. you can then get to the top nuts easily, the ones underneath are a little trickier, i got a blow torch and heated a spanner up and then bent it over about 90 dergrees, when cooled i got under the car and used that by way of feeling for the nuts to do mine the other week when i had to tighten them up, its good for undoing them also, as they undo you will find you can just lift the manifold up a small way and spin them with your fingers if the threads are good and clean, if not just keep using the spanner.

http://www.lotusespritforum.com/forums/ind...ost&p=69947

Edited by bigsi

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Thanks Simon :P

Any idea about those part numbers for that gasket kit? Is it different in mine, cause it's an USA-model?

Big thank you for your answers, hopefully we manage to fix the Lotus for summer.

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Our project progress has been slow :)

But, today we managed to take the turbo to the Turbo-service....Bad news are, that repair estimate is 650

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jussi with the good exchange rate it will be much much cheaper for you to send that to turbo technics here in the uk to be repaired and have the bearings upgraded. the euro is very good to the uk pound at the moment so you may find its almost half what you expect it would be.

give them a try, they are renowned at what they can do.

http://www.turbotechnics.com/docs/index.htm

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Don't asked where I have been for last year :o

Anyway....Lotus-project is going VERY fast at the moment B) We took the cylinder head out today and now I really know why there's been some leak!

img_0729.jpg

Some idiot had replaced cylinder head's stud bolts.....look what they have changed to:

img_0724.jpg

The first one is original....is it possible to order these? Cause we're taking the cylinder head to specialist tomorrow and he will fixed it, like new :D

Plastic on the right is some kind of cement...they tried to stop leaks with that thing, I guess....

And here's the main reason, why there's been leaking:

img_0722.jpg

They have drilled bigger holes on that upperhead :o

We discovered numbers from cylinder head gasket....are these part numbers? "12922 021" Can I order like this....or what if the specialist will grind the cylinder head, I will need in that case thicker gasket? I will order the whole cylinder head gasket kit, are there any other parts (gaskets) I should order? I have those exhaust gaskets already :wub:

Are these upper head bolts available?

img_0743.jpg

I really appreciate fast answers and really need your help my friends for next few weeks :devil: I promise, if I get the Lotus back on the road this summer, I will visit U.K this year :)

Turbo is fixed and it's like new :clap:

Thanks.

Jussi from warmer Finland

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Jussi

Keep your head skim to the minimum possible. 15thou is about the maximum recommended (and you dont know whats been done in the past...).

If they are the bolts that are securing the cam towers to the head, they are available at

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Thanks Steve :wub:

I think reason to thread the cam tower had been, that they had broken original stud bolts....And perhaps they wanted the car cheaply and fast to get fixed, so they cheated previous owner.

Long bolts on the picture are the ones that goes from cam tower to head, wow, they really cost much, I'm gonna ask, if the specialist could make new ones.

I'm not sure how hard it's order from PNM and Lotusbits to Finland and I have a bit of hurry at the moment :( I have been using SJSportscars and always got excellent service and fast.

My next uncertainty is glue on the engine, can anyone explain what are the products and all the places you should put the glue on?

Loctite 518 is the right one for cam towers, how about glue on the bolts?

Big thanks my friends B)

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Jussi

Be careful if you're trying to manufacture those bolts. I think the originals are designed to "stretch" by a fixed amount when torqued to correct factory settings. I'm sure you'd need to factor this in to any remanufactured parts.

Thoughts are with you, hope you can get across to the UK soon.

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Jussi

All you need is your Loctite 518 for the cam towers to the head. Just apply a small bead all the way around the perimeter of the cam tower (or the head). Obviously the bead must go around the outside of all the holes! Also use the 518 under the head of the flanged bolt that will secure the cracked hole (otherwise oil will run down the shaft of the bolt and leak out of the crack). Before you do any of this the head and towers must be clean enough to eat your dinner off! I personally would not worry about using non-standard fasteners, it seems to me that this is a very low stressed fairly non-critical joint. The key thing to remember is that its very easy to strip the threads, so err on the side of caution when tightening up!

The only other things I can think of are the 2 gaskets for the cam covers (which I always seal with standard silicone from any old DIY shop...).

Dont forget the 2 o-rings that seal the oil galeries between the head and the cam towers. Probably also worth changing the seals & o-rings for the camshaft and the caps at the end of the camshaft.

You will also need access to some shims to get your valve clearances correct. NB I always set the clearances with the head off the car, I find it much more convenient as you generally need to do it a few times to get it spot on.

cheers Steve.

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Thanks again....there were lots of information :wub:

Btw. what were the valve clearences? I'm sure we can get correct shims from this specialist.

There were no gaskets on cam towers, they were just glued.....so that's one more reason why they leaked.

Ooh, and one more thing, I have a Federal car, so there might be some differences to U.K-cars.

Jussi

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Jussi

Just to confirm the different parts we are talking about - The cylinder head, the cam towers (2) and the cam covers (2). There is no gasket between the cylinder head and the cam towers, just your 518. The gaskets are fitterd between the cam towers and the cam covers.

cheers Steve

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