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capping rails and trim

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as promised i have been busy working on sections of the lotus , this includes rubbing back and preperation for high build priming and pre paint work.

1: here are the capping rails and air scoops from eitherside of the car, they needed doing as the paint was pitted, ahd micro blisters underneath them and were in a poor state now.






2: upon removing the capping rail i found that the capping rail trim was totally persihed and no ood, it crumbled away and snapped as i removed the rail, this has now been removed and new trim bought to replace it.






3:so with the necessary wet and dry paper cut to sections and left in water for an hour i was ready to begin., the first thing i tackled were the air scoops, i wrapped the paper around a pull block and began sanding not using pressure and letting the paper do the work.



i then moved to the capping rails and repeated the same process and it was quite surprised how many high spots there were in these.



a small section had to be dremeled to a fine channel and filled with fibrol , left to dry and then given some 2k to even the filling with then rubbed back.


it was also reinforced with fibrol on the rear.


4: here are the scoops with their first coats of high build on before wet sanding to lose the high spots again.


and here they are after thier first wet sand and the hig spots and edges shown


once taken back enough they are recoated again ready to be sanded once more.



and here is the capping rail with its first two coats of high build left to dry prior to wet sanding back.




Edited by bigsi

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Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.

I've got all that fun to come, I've nearly finished playing with the mechanics of the S3, so then it's onto the bodywork in preparation for a full re-spray.

Looking good BigSi.


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Si, thanks for posting this. I am now up to this stage with my Esprit and your photo diary is excellent.

Can you elaborate on product details, specs when you use them, even as simple info as the grades of wet and dry. [edit: oops I saw that now - '2K'. I mean other products :yes ]

Thanks even more,


Edited by iainskea

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ok, for sanding back the paint i used a 200 grit paper for stubborn sections and 240 for basic removal, going to 400 then 800 grits succesively. when i got to a good surface i then washed the whole thing, let it dry and then wiped it all down with a panel prep and then de-nibbed and ran a tack cloth over them. all the areas that had small pits or scratches etc had a light amount of tetrosyl 2k filler smeared into them then when dry i sanded them back with a 1000 grit paper.

once again i washed them down and when dry cleaned them with panel prep, after that i dusted them with high build primer and then gave them a few coats of primer then began wet sanding them back with an 800 grit, but no pressure to the paper i let it do all the work. same thing again cleaned down and wiped with panel prep and recoated again ready for another sanding tomorrow.

im a really really fussy bas***d when it comes to paint work and im not worried to take it all off and start again if need be, if its not right do it again.

i will detail all products and brands of paper etc as well for you.

Edited by bigsi

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i was hthem down with a ver ydilute soap water mix and then after they are bone dry i use a panel prep to do a degrease and clean. i will put several layers of apint on, then let it bake really well, then i will do a colour sand, wipe clean and then laquer then wet sand that before its all compounded and polished

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part 2:

today the scoops were dusted with a guide coat, this is when sanding back it will show highs and lows, and when its all gone the piece will be level.


after sanding there were only a few high spots left and these were reprimed and rubbed back again until the piece is covered after sanding.


the scoops were then cleaned and panel wiped ready for the first dust coat of primer, here you can see the first wet coat go on after the dust coat, note the speed and also that the piece to be painted remains in the whole of the spray fan as i move along it.


here are the scoops with primer on a home made stand




if you take your time and dont rush things you can get a very good finish when the base primer goes on.





the primer used over the high build is a tetrosyl primer the cap has an adjustable fan nozzle.


Edited by bigsi

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Stunning work as usual Si - very impressed! :)

Hmmm - do I remember you having an etch primer in a spray can?

About time I repainted some of the alloy castings on the induction side...


"... the Lotus Turbo (Esprit) owner will not only be comfortable in fast company, but will find, more often than not, that he has no company at all!" Road and Track magazine

1983 Turbo Esprit - Silver - 'Lottie' Featured in Classic and Sportscar Aug 2008 and Wheeler Dealers.

1999 Elise - Norfolk Mustard - 'Liz' Daily driver - 221,000 miles and counting!

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nope it was a specail primer that was clear with metallics inside it was a special primer for grp and plastics etc. yes it did have a dust of that as well sorry i forgot to add that bit! doh!

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part 3:

well today is a glorious day here adn the suns out full pelt and im cooking!

so it was a quick sand of the primed parts with some 2000 grit paper, a little water and just letting the paper glide over the surfaces, then washed, run over with a tack cloth and then panel prepped.

i then applied two dust coats of paint this allowed the paint to have something else to key to when i start tp put a full wet line on.



i then proceeded to apply the first wet coat




as you can see the preperation work has made this all the more better as the orange peel is less than it normally would be and will only take a few mins to lose when i colour sand them prior to laquering.




as you can see the paint took very well and the colour contrast is brilliant, the red certainly punches with the white base behind it.





the paint was custom made for me and canned, luckily for me the head of the can has a fan nozzle which made painting much easier and more gun like.

it meant a smooth wetline that could easily be picked up on the next pass.

i have now left this to dry for the next 48 hrs and i will then coloursand the pieces, after that i will clean and pre wipe then laquer and wet sand the laquer prior to polish.

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