free hit
counters
Engine removal - Engine/Ancilliaries - The Lotus Forums Jump to content


Recommended Posts


Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.
  • Replies 18
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

Just to follow up, (long winded post coming up) I've pulled and replaced S4 and S4s engines several times and here are a few pointers off the top of my head. Some of these items have already been ment

It depends if you want to take the gearbox out or not.

If you want to take both out then do it as one big unit.

Advice is simple, have an engine crane that can lift quite high, and a balance bar to go with it.

Take off as many ancillaries before the removal as you reasonably can.

Get some friends round to help, even if they don't know Esprits they can help hold, pull, push etc at the right moment.

If they're mechanically adept then that's even better.

Andy

And take digital photos at various points to note cable / pipe routing etc

Edited by andydclements
Link to post
Share on other sites

Its not to hard to remove the engine, but as Andy says you need a pretty high engine hoist because in order to get the engine & gearbox to clear the car it has to be lifted up quite a ways. Also, getting the roll pins out of the half shafts can be a bit of a pain make sure you have a properly sized punch to push them out!

- Graham

Link to post
Share on other sites
Do I need to be under the car for removal?

Only for some bits,such as removing the engine mount bolts, holding the gearbox mount bolt heads, removing some pipes.

Were, how is the best way to get rid of all of the fluids?

Engine oil, drain as normal, but have some plastic sheets and cable ties to secure all 4 ends when you remove the oil cooler lines.

water/ coolant - let it go and replace, possibly via the rad bleed point at first, but then move to the front bottom rad pipe behind the RHS wheel.

Gearbox oil, drain as normal- that way it doesn't come out when you remove the drive shafts.

Andy

Link to post
Share on other sites

When i remove the driveshafts,do i take the hubcarrier from the upper and lowerlink.

Or can i disconnect them just from the gearbox side by removing the rollpins from the joint?

Does that give me enough space to take the joint off ?

In that way i still have a rolling car other wise,I have to place the car on struts.

Gertjan

Link to post
Share on other sites

It's your choice.

Do you want to remove the drive shafts while lifting the engine or before lifting.

While lifting- simply remove pins and pull from transaxle as you lift.

Before (I normally do this), remove pins and remove upper link from hub carrier and struggle to get enough movement. Alternatively, remove upper and lower, then have fun putting the damper back on. Then re-assemble to move car about.

Andy

Link to post
Share on other sites

Not to be facetious here but if you are needing to ask questions as to how to drain the fluids and whether you need to get under the car or not, I would humbly suggest that you reconsider whether your skill level is up to par with the task you are undertaking.

1995 S4s

Link to post
Share on other sites

I removed and reinstalled mine the year before last, with gearbox attached. Not something I'd done before, but why not dive in at the deep end.

I followed the service notes to the letter and made sure that everything I needed (tools, helpful extra people to help) was to hand.

Its quite nerve wracking seeing your powertrain dangling over the rear transom as you lift it out. But very satisfying.

One thing of note is that as the assembly was moved around, I still found fluids leaking from places that I thought were drained, so cloths to mop up would be handy.

Also clearing the rear deck out of the way was essential (either by removal or having it held vertical).

But being steady, methodical, careful and following the book of words worked well.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Better to ask, it's just (as Jim rightly questions) some people shouldn't attempt this sort of job, some are capable, but unfamiliar, and none of us answering such posts know which category anybody falls into. The former are just going to get upset with everybody, dis-heartened, and potentially cost themselves lots of money, that's why I support Jim asking the question he did.

The main thing to consider about how to take the drive shafts off is, you've got to get them on again the same way. So I'd suggest you at least consider the send method for the re-assembly. Alternatively, just remember to get the drive shafts to the right rotation when you're dropping the lump back in, The shaft has the hole in a peak at one point and a trough 180degrees opposed to it, can you image re-fitting the engine then realising you need to lift it partially out again just to turn a drive shaft through 180 degrees?

Andy

Link to post
Share on other sites
Thank you andy.tiny,

This are comments that i can do something with.

s.a. comments i can get every where.

Gertjan

Gertjan,

If your comment is directed at my post then I apologize because it was in no way intended to be smartass. If you have the Service Notes (and it sounds like you don't), the engine removal procedure is clearly documented there.

If you don't have the Service Notes and Parts List, you need them and I would highly suggest that you get them as it will save you a lot of headaches if you intend to put the engine back in and have it running properly.

Why are you pulling the engine as I don't believe you have stated that?

Cheers,

Jim

1995 S4s

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just to follow up, (long winded post coming up) I've pulled and replaced S4 and S4s engines several times and here are a few pointers off the top of my head. Some of these items have already been mentioned above and I'm not sure what your experience level is so some of this may seem elementary to you:

For best access remove the wing and rear hatch (boot lid). Remove the lid by disconnecting the struts and removing two 10mm bolts from each hinge right/left. (use a helper, the lid isn't heavy just bulky)Match mark the hinge on the lid before removal to aid in re-aligning it on re-installation. You will also have to disconnect the stop light wiring in the wing if you have that and the rear window defrost wire. If you dont' wish to remove the lid, you can also just disconnect the struts and tie the lid up to something overhead, but I prefer to remove it.

Label all wiring connectors, coolant hoses, vacuum/pressure lines as you remove them. I use masking tape and permanent marker. Once the engine is out you can wrap the whole engine wiring harness in a plastic bag to protect it from water, etc.

It is not necessary to completely remove any ancillaries (a/c comp, power steering pump, alternator, exhaust manifold, turbo etc.) to remove the engine and they are much easier to get to on an engine stand. The only thing I remove is the airbox and chargecooler tank so you can get to the throttle cable and injector wiring. I pull the entire engine/tranny in one lump and re-install the same way.

If you have any need to remove the oil cooler lines from adapter (sandwich plate under the oil filter) then do so before you remove it from the engine as they are usually very tight and the piece is hard to hold if not on the block. If you don't have to disconnect the lines then just remove the entire assembly from the oil pump/auxiliary housing.

Unless you have replaced your fuel tanks recently, be sure to pull those and replace or re-condition them while the engine is out as it will never be easier. They are a royal pain to get out with the engine in place. Every tank I've pulled from a 94-95 has been rusted and either leaking or not far from it. Also replace the lotus carpet foam (which soak up water)under the tanks with upgraded closed cell foam. There is a drain plug in the bottom of the right side tank which is accessed through a hole in the body under the car.

Replace or rebuild everything you can afford to do with the engine out as again, it will never be easier. Particularly the water pump, alternator, chargecooler pump, oil pump, a/c compressor, clutch, flywheel, release bearing, spigot bearing, etc.

Replace hoses with long life silicone hoses if you can. Not sure what's available in Europe but JAE has the complete sets in the US.

Tighten the bulkhead to body bolts while the engine is out. See the procedure in the LEW tech section.

On the driveshafts, here's how I like to do it. Drive out the roll pins (retaining pins) from the top using suitable punches. With the rear wheels off the ground on jack stands or a lift, release the upper link from the chassis and have a helper stand on the wheel to push the hub down. You can also carefully use a pry bar between the tranny housing and driveshaft to separate it. **Upon removal be sure to match mark the roll pin holes on the driveshaft and output shaft from the tranny as they only line up correctly one way and it's possible to install the pins 180 degrees out and have a big problem when they jam in the hole. I use a Dremel tool to mark the pieces.

Another way to remove the driveshafts is again with the wheels off the ground, to disconnect the lower link from the chassis end (not the damper end) and using a floor jack under the hub, raise the wheel enough to pull the driveshaft loose.

Either way, tie the driveshafts up out of the way after the engine is out and reconnect the links and you can then roll the car around if need be.

Personally I would not try to remove the engine and disconnect the driveshafts at the same time. There are plenty of other things you'll need to be watching as the engine comes out to make sure you don't damage anything and there is not a lot of clearance to get it out.

As for pulling the engine, I use a 3" nylon towing strap and loop under the engine near the front and under the tranny.

Good luck! :)

1994LotusS4019.jpg

Edited by lotus4s
  • Like 1

1995 S4s

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Jim,

Just what I needed.

I already started dismanteling and also came to the conclusion that what Andy and you stated for removing the driveshafts is better than my idea of removing them when lifting.

Gertjan

Link to post
Share on other sites
For best access remove the wing and rear hatch (boot lid). Remove the lid by disconnecting the struts and removing two 10mm bolts from each hinge right/left. (use a helper, the lid isn't heavy just bulky)

Just a note, on an SE the hatch is very heavy.

Visit Sanj's Lotus Esprit Turbo SE pages

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...