free hit
counters
Drive Shaft Roll pins - fix in place? - Gearchange/Gearbox/Clutch - The Lotus Forums Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
kyliesmith.com

Drive Shaft Roll pins - fix in place?

Recommended Posts

After gleaming that we survived doing this task of replacing seals pins etc for our first time, my heart sank as I seen that dreaded spot of gear box oil on the floor again last weekend GGrrrr!! :ph34r: So thinking the worst it was coming out of the dust seals, closer inspection shows its only infact coming out of the left side roll pins.

If I push the car so the shaft pin is directly upright can I clean the top part up and push some more sealant down in there, then do other side ?? Or am I looking through rose tinted glasses :lol: If I punch out the pins again I am going to have to drain the box oil first or it will trickle out right?


350.gifNo.23

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.

Your aproach of one side at a time should work. Make sure you clean it really well as any trace of oil will prevent the adhering to the metal. I suggest uing some brake & clutch cleaner which is a very effective de-greaser which dries in a few seconds.

Andy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm sure I mentioned the pins leaking on a previous post..

If you punch them out you will need to drop the oil from the gearbox first.

As Andy says, you should be ok doing one at a time as long as you degrease properly first, and allow the silicone time to dry properly. A day at least I'd say.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As Jim points out, those pins should not be in contact with oil. As long as the o-rings inside are tight and intact. Other point is as follows: use some silicone (or other equivalent gearbox-oil resistant sealing) on the tooth profile of the shaft connections. As this is the place in witch the oil comes along if the o-rings inside fail.

(Remember Marcus words: is all improvisation that comes from my side, not recommended for real Lotus lovers.) But you should just think about... :lol:


*********************************************************************

to name the things if I see them, that's what I call integrity..

*********************************************************************

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks guys, yeah we did change the O-ring seals as well. But this may be the cause of our problem. When we went to grab the new OEM O-rings to put them in for the life of me I couldnt remember where I left them. I took them out of their bag and they kind of went walk about the house with me and I ended having to take the old orings up to the local automotive shop and they matched me up some. Got home put the orings in car all finished then whent upstairs to check my email and the bloody OEM O-rings were by the computer for some reason :lol: Bugger!. I am thinking the replacement orings wernt infact the correct size. But its strange only one is leaking so far.

Well Ill clean up the roll pin and poke some more sealant in there as suggested. I know its not the correct way to fix this but for now it will just have to do.


350.gifNo.23

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did you put the pins in back to back with regards to the split ?

The should be 180 degrees opposed which helps keep the oil in too.

What you could do which is really sneaky is put some silicone up the holes and then use a cable tie to make sure it is kept in place.

You probably have a small bit of dirt on a seal somewhere which is causing the leak.


facebook = [email protected]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Took my car to a well known Lotus dealer in Surrey yesterday for a quote on this very problem- leaking shaft seals. Haven't seen the quote yet- would generally reckon to do this sort of thing myself but I still have a warranty from last year which I hope covers it.

Anyway, after a bit of persuasion they let me walk under the hoist- I was surprised to find that the rubber pads of the four point hoist were positioned on top the jacking points! Not sure whether any of them have been bent but it seems strange that the correct procedure is to support the whole car's weight from four pop riveted brackets that are entirely on the glass fibre shell and not the chassis.

I await the quote...

BG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

it is true, there are regularly four points in the body shell (those riveted angle blades) and three on the chassis (frame [rear lower cross member/ and both sides of the T-frame in front)


*********************************************************************

to name the things if I see them, that's what I call integrity..

*********************************************************************

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So do people generally accept that if they take their Esprit to a normal garage the jack points are going to get flattened sooner or later?

When I raise the car at home I will use the chassis points as you say Gunter. Presumably that

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Kylie,

IIRC the manual says to fill the roll pin holes in the output shafts and the U/J holder, assemble then hammer in the roll pins. Finally sealing the ends of the roll pins with RTV.

As mentioned, its virtually impossible to get anything to stick properly if there is the slightest trace of TAF-X anywhere!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bob, those riveted blades in the body are mainly shaped for the [ordinary GM/Opel]-jack that comes with the car. In case of an flat tire on the motorway it is really bad to reach the front section of the steel-frame.


*********************************************************************

to name the things if I see them, that's what I call integrity..

*********************************************************************

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well....how long have you got. The rough notes for the little tome I plan to write about my adventures in a StHelens landscape loaded with snazzy cars like mine ! Every last one with a goddamn drive shaft leak. I should be grateful I suppose, that mine was not quite the deluge it has been. Three goes they had at fixing this. new seal, new mastic and then new pins. STILL leasking !!! Our garage is so full of oily puddles that looks like an SR-71 barn (and with the sports exhaust, it damn well sounds like one as well !!!!!

Edited by toyroom

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bab, jacking the car there is perfectly OK - I try and get supports on the chassis when working but jack on the front body points and the rear chassis hoop under the gearbox.

I reckon some of you have wrong size O rings - if you're leaking out of the roll pins (you have to make sure that is the real reason) then oil is getting past the O ring seal.

As I say bung it up and use a jubilee clip or ziptie to hold the sealant in place/cram it in the hole, if I had a persistant problem I would take the O-ring out, buy another genuine part and compare them. Clean the inside and the driveshaft like a bugger - get all the dirt off possible - wet the seal with transmission oil and re-fit it. If I leaks then Id say the seal was not seating correcty and you might have to go up a size to take the slack up.


facebook = [email protected]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
As I say bung it up and use a jubilee clip or ziptie to hold the sealant in place/cram it in the hole

Little tip, degrease the surface and wrap a couple of layers of self-amalgamating tape over them.

Another is that O-rings do not like being slid over splined shafts. Wrap some thin plastic sheet around the splines and slide the O-ring over that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

:D I have a new angle on this ! It kind of makes some sense too. The factory reckon that my leak may be due to some degree of wear on the driveshaft itself, thus leading to the seal not quite being tight on the shaft. Not heard that on before but may try a new shaft. Can the O ring of which you speak be replaced in a similar manner to the seal ?

:) By the way, what country am I from, I don't recognize that flag at all !!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the O-ring is behind the outer part of the drive shaft[inside the gearbox]. The part with the splines on inside. Put the o-ring on the drive shaft ends that came out of the differential (or more exact -that is part of the differential) , it has the splines on outside. It helps also if you clean those splines (make them oil-free) and use some silicone [adhesive] sealing compound to block the oil from passing along the splines [in case the o-ring does fail]. If you measure the original position of the Sealing rings it is possible to calculate a repositioning of the new ones one millimeter next to the old position. This helps to save the rubber lip from scratching on an uneven used/ scratched surface of the old sealing lip position...


*********************************************************************

to name the things if I see them, that's what I call integrity..

*********************************************************************

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's interesting Gunter, do you mean position the seals slightly out of their normal positon so as the act on a new bit of the shaft? How would you know that the seal was still exactly lined up 90 degrees to the shaft? Packing pieces perhaps..

Cheers

B

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

you can fabricate an tool on a lathe with an different deepness to the original. Or just measure the distance between sealbase and the gearbox/seal-housing with an calliper on three points across... . I think if you do it carefully it is good enough this way.


*********************************************************************

to name the things if I see them, that's what I call integrity..

*********************************************************************

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...