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Turbo insulation kit

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I know there have been numerous posts on this but I stumbled accross this recently.

My gut feel is that no other turbos run as hot as the Esprits (normally cherry red) on a good run, and would either melt or make this kit a fire hazzard.

The link to the site is

Personally I'll leave mine to the elements as I do not see how this can possibly improve performance.


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It's always been my concern it runs RED hot as well so dont wrap it - last thing I want in the engine bay is a Trumpton alert !!

The performance idea is that it retains the heat in the gas longer, the hotter the gas the faster it moves (less back pressure = more power)

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Some of the fabrics will stand the tempreture but they probably used normal thead to join and seam with, which will be destroyed by the heat making it fall apart. Have seen a few on some Jap imports and they get un-tidy with time...

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Once I was driving the car on a long trip under normal driving condtition and I was supprised to how hot the factory turbo was glowing.

I though I had a light in the engine bay somewhere as I was viewing the engine bay from the driving mirrow.

I must admit that all the silver heating reflection on the engine bay wall was making the reflection even more obvious.

Since then I have upgrade the factory turbo with a ball bearing unit and the glowing is not as much, I supose the turbo is running much cooler now.

Oh by the way I have installed a air pipe which is delivering air directly to the turbo.

Here are some pics for you.

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I think it would be interesting to combine some of the techniques I have seen, make the turbo heat shield with the stainless pot and then use a air duct going from the sidewall directly into the pot, cut some slits in the top of the pot that would direct the air out the top of the engine cover and out the back . . . you could even make the slits in the pot/turbo heat shield look decent . . . I have seen people cut words into them. this would in a sense direct the heat out the back more efficiently than how it is done today.

One interesting idea would be to buy a pot that had a high percentage of aluminum in it . . .or copper bottom, these are easy to find and would actually act as a heat sink to take away heat from the body of the turbo . . .

I have some of that fiberglass heat wrap sitting around that you are supposed to use on exhaust to keep the hot exhaust gas from expelling heat into the engine bay as well as temp up to increase velocity . . . I wonder if this would work the other way, if i wrap the intake, if it would keep the air coming in from absorbing heat?

Edited by CBrownstead
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I suggest you use a turbo blanket. I have one, they work great. You can place your hand directly on them at idle and not even burn yourself (don't try this after a fast run!).

If you search online, you can find the silver ones for $115.00; black is a little harder to come by. The silver ones will discolor over time, so I went with black. Be advised that they smoke for about an hour the first time you put them on. The first half inch of the ceramic insulation closest to the scroll will burn to ash, but from then on will just act as an insulator.

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  • 1 month later...

I know the Noble guys are using Turbo beanies with great success. I quite like the idea, but I wonder if down the line they could cause turbo housings to crack with retaining heat in for longer, I dont know I just think theres always a reason why these things are built the way they are.

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My friend put ceramic coating on his exhaust manifold (Esprit SE, sorta) and it did a great job of keeping the heat inside the pipes. You could put your hand near the manifold even after a track session, felt much cooler.

BUT... the extra heat went down stream, and soon cooked his turbo. The cast iron side of the turbine housing was cracked in multiple places, totally unusable...


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I also had mine ceramic coated, as well as the entire exhaust header system. It still glows red when pushed hard, but it stays gray/black after it cools, rather than turning to porous, red rust. The coating isn't very robust though. You can scratch it pretty easily. But once assembled, there's no reason for it to be touched.

I had it done at a local shop near Portland, OR for a few hundred bucks, when I rebuilt my motor.

It's said to keep the engine bay cooler, but without measurements, you could never tell. It still cooks pretty good in there...

I'd recommend ceramic coating of the turbo/exhaust system for anybody who removes or rebuilds their motor. It's not worth the hassle otherwise.

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