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gavman

Removing rear 1/4 side windows - how please?

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Hi all, any tips on removing the two rear side windows? I like to take them off, clean off the peelant and then get them heavily tinted.

Or are there mobile window removal firms I could call?

Thanks for any advice.

Ta

Edited by gavman

Gavman

Lotus Esprit Turbo Chargecooler SE 1991

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88 Esprit NA, 89 Esprit Turbo SE, Evora, Evora S, Evora IPS, Evora S IPS, Evora S IPS SR, Evora 400, Elise S1, Elise S1 111s, Evora GT410 Sport

Evora NA

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Thanks for that, I am aware of this company and unfortunately too far away. Anyway I rather remove them myself or get a local firm to do it.


Gavman

Lotus Esprit Turbo Chargecooler SE 1991

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There is a guide in the service manual how to do it, have you got a copy?


88 Esprit NA, 89 Esprit Turbo SE, Evora, Evora S, Evora IPS, Evora S IPS, Evora S IPS SR, Evora 400, Elise S1, Elise S1 111s, Evora GT410 Sport

Evora NA

For forum issues, please contact the Moderators. I will aim to respond to emails/PM's Mon-Fri 9-6 GMT. 

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Thats a thought, no I do not have a service manual. I did buy one but still waiting for it to come from the USA. Have you got a scan of this instructions?

Thanks a ton!


Gavman

Lotus Esprit Turbo Chargecooler SE 1991

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someone on here has a website and it shows you how to remove the glass and tint them etc etc. only saw it the other day aswell, oh god i cant remember who it is. its a full picture by picture aswell.

and he fitted CF sides to the window aswell


OUR CURRENT COLLECITON :- MODIFIED LOTUS ESPRIT, FULL VEILSIDE SUPRA (BEAST 409.3bhp), NEW ADDITON TO THE TROOP, 1996 S CLASS MERC (FULLY PIMPED OUT, DUB EDITION)

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My website is down, and I did this when I didn't own a camera...

But here are the instructions

Tools and supplies needed

1)windshield removal knife (see picture)

2)guitar strings 039 nickel plated ribbed

3) wooden dowels 2x with hole drilled for guitar string diameter

4)Sika Flex polyurethane adhesive or other professional polyurethane windshield

adhesive. I got some from a local auto glass place (Elite Auto Glass).

http://www.sikaindustry.com/ind/ipd-autogl...toglass-agr.htm

5)Sika black primer 206 G+P. I got some from a local auto glass place

(Elite Auto

Glass).

http://www.sikaindustry.com/ind/ipd-autogl...ass-agr-217.htm

6)single edge razor blades, utility knife blades, and a handle for scraping

7)sharp pointy awl (poker)

8)sand paper

9)small and medium foam paint brushes

10)Drill & drill bits

11) Manual Rivet gun and aluminum rivets

12)heavy duty caulking gun (home Depot, the kind with the long

handles, not the bent

metal ones)

13)masking tape, fine line and normal

14) window tint, not too dark

15) Window tint application tools, squeegee, soapy water

So first of all you need to remove the 1/4 window. I have attached a

picture of a windshield removal tool. This tool is very handy and

makes it easy to control the amount of force that you apply so that

you don't slip and damage the car (which will happen with a normal

knife). I bought this at an industrial tool supply called Harbour

Freight.

This kind of knife can't reach all of the areas around the Esprit 1/4

window, so you'll also need a bunch of guitar strings (nickel, not

copper, with the ribbed texture) I think I bought 039"s??? You'll

also need a couple of short handle shaped dowels with a hole drilled

through each.

What I do is drill out the rivets of the ABS plastic trim pieces along

the leading edge of the 1/4 window. These ABS pieces break easy and

are around $55 each, so be careful. Try and slide a knife under the

plastic piece to cut the polyurethane glue that holds it in place.

There should be only three dabs, one near each rivet.

Once you get the ABS plastic piece off, I start by poking a hole

through the glue at the leading edge of the 1/4 window. I use a small

awl (poker). Once you break through into the hatch area of the car,

cut one end off of a guitar string and pass it through one of the

dowel handles. Take the free end and pass it through the hole that

you poked into the window glue. On the inside of the car, pass the

guitar string through the other handle, wrap it around the handle a

bunch of times and tape it to the handle. Start sawing up and around,

or down and around the 1/4 window. The window removal knife is

particularly helpful along the straight bottom edge of the window. Be

careful not to pull out with the knife or you'll break the glass.

Also be careful not to pull your inside hand toward the car or you'll

cut into the fiberglass. Keep you hand near the glass (on the

inside). The most difficult part is the rear corner of the glass, due

to the tight space available. Don't pull on the glass, it might

break, though it is pretty strong.

Once you remove the glass, you need to trim down the adhesive around

the window frame of the car. In my case I removed all traces of the

glue. You can leave a thin ribbon of the old adhesive to act as a

base for the new adhesive. I didn't do this, so I'm not sure how good

the bond strength is. I do know that the way that I did it was very

strong, it took me hours to remove the original glass, and 5 days to

remove when I glued it in my way (I wanted to make sure it was bonded

well).

For this next step you must have Sika 206 G+P black primer!!!!

http://www.sikaindustry.com/ind/ipd-autoglass-agr-217

I got mine from a local Elite Auto Glass store, they gave me a used can for free.

On the 1/4 window; using masking tape on the outside of the glass,

make a pattern of the black trim around the inside of the glass.

Since you wouldn't be doing all this if the black trim was still

perfectly intact, scrape off all the black trim with a razor blade.

The wide black ceramic frit along the leading edge of the window does

not come off!!! Though do not gouge it with the corner of the razor

blade!!!!! Also scrape off all of the window tint, and glue. And

orange oil based cleaner degreaser will help remove the adhesive.

Now if the car and the windshield are scraped free of black trim and

glue (you may leave that thin ribbon of polyurethane on the car) you

are ready to prime the 1/4 window. If you removed all the

polyurethane from the car, then you'll need to prime the bond area

with the Sika 206 G+P. Mask off all of the parts of the car that you

don't want to get a permanent black coating on. Using a foam brush,

wipe the primer onto the areas where the window glue will be. It

dries instantly.

Once you scrape off all the black on the glass, copy your tape outline

from the outside to the inside of the glass, so that you have masked

off all but where the black used to be. Pour a small amount of the

Sika primer 206 G+P into a small plastic cup. Stick the foam brush

into the primer and wipe it onto the window in one clean easy stroke.

You may want to practice by wiping it onto a newspaper first. The

primer goes on easy, and dries instantly. When dry it is like a

metallic glass coating. Try to do this in one stroke so that no brush

strokes appear. You can always scrape it off and try again. Try and

do this in a thin coat, because a thick line will cause problems with

the window tint film later.

When the black border is done, peel off the masking tape. You are now

ready to have the window tinted. You can either take it to a shop or

do it yourself. The original Lotus tint film slightly covered part of

the black border. In the meantime, keep dust from getting onto the

primed surfaces!!! If you do it yourself, a little hint is trim the

film on the other side of the glass, so that you don't cut the black

coating.

Now the window is ready to bond onto the car. Apply the polyurethane

adhesive with the caulking gun, to the outside edge of the 1/4 window.

One bead width will do, you don't need a double row. Make sure there

are no breaks in the adhesive ring. Pick up the glass and press it

onto the car. Press it all around, and space it evenly from the car

along the bottom edge. You can use a couple 4mm spacers (rubber) to

hold it up off of the car's body, though the viscosity of the adhesive

will usually do this. And you can tape the window to the body to keep

it from sliding down. Use your finger tip or rounded tool to smooth

any adhesive, that squishes out around the window, into a fillet like

you would while caulking a bathtub. You can add a little extra

adhesive around the perimeter, and smooth it to make sure there aren't

any voids.

Let it set, check on it for the first hour to make sure the window

hasn't slipped. I would let it cure over night, especially in a cold

garage. Normal drive away time for the Sika adhesives is around 1

hour, but I would let it cure overnight.

Now you'll need to re-rivet those ABS plastic pieces in place, use a

little of the adhesive to hold them in place and seal around the

rivets.


Travis

Vulcan Grey 89SE

My Lotus Photo and Projects Album

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Many thanks Travis! My gosh its more complicated than I thought but will give it a go.....


Gavman

Lotus Esprit Turbo Chargecooler SE 1991

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i have some pics on my site

also CF trim

click below on RedRocket

(when i did mine, i used the guide from http://www.unity1.co.uk/Lotus/index.html GREAT site.

where Travis' site covers everything mechanical, this site covers most everything else. Bless the strong Esprit community! what would we ever do without it?)

Edited by ragingfool35

chris

90SE

just because I don't CARE doesn't mean I don't UNDERDSTAND

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