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Jonathan

Spiral wire bound air intake pipe things

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Mines got a split in the airbox to turbo pipe.

Nasty thing is the pipe is conical 80mm at one end and 60mm (I think) at the other so it's very hard to find.

Anyone know of a supplier - tried the official route and almost fell over backwards at the cost of such a thing (3 figures) - anyone replaced theirs on the cheap ?


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Yes that is a critical part. Do not replace it with clothes dryer flexi pipe or anything not designed for the job. The Turbo makes quite a bit of suction and will easily collapse other "reinforced" ducting.


Travis

Vulcan Grey 89SE

My Lotus Photo and Projects Album

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I just saw Forgemotorsport.com has some nice looking reinforced silicone intake pipes for specific applications (Audi, Subaru, Mitsubishi). They list straight sections, of various diameters too for building your own setup, but I'm not sure if they are the reinforced variety-probably not I guess. Also, Dermot replaced his stock tube with larger diameter one as I recall. There must be stuff out there somewhere.

Trevor

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I replaced mine with the 89mm stuff from Forre Motorsport. It's very reinforced so you won't need to worry about it collapsing. The only 2 problems are that it's not that cheap -


Pete '79 S2

LEW Miss September 2009

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I thought SJ did these? As I also need to get one


Amateurs built the Ark

Professionals built the Titanic

"I haven't ridden in cars pulled by cows before" "Bullocks, Mr.Belcher" "No, I haven't, honestly"

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They do...and they cost a fortune. I tried to find a suitable substitute some years ago and failed miserably, ended up biting the bullet. Even then the new one is far too long....it's the tapering bit and the need to stop it collapsing under full suck (I should be so lucky!) that causes the problem.


Scientists investigate that which already is; Engineers create that which has never been." - Albert Einstein

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If anyone finds a solution please post, I did look into it a while back but with no luck.


Amateurs built the Ark

Professionals built the Titanic

"I haven't ridden in cars pulled by cows before" "Bullocks, Mr.Belcher" "No, I haven't, honestly"

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Hi guys,

get in touch with demon tweeks and buy a straight piece to fit onto the tubo,[the will advise right type] then also buy a piece of straight to fit air box, also obtain from same place spun ally reducer to join together, job done low cost.

P.S. you will have to buy a meter of each length of pipe which is way more than you need, so if you all get together one purchase of pipe should do at least two motors.

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Dave, that sounds like a plan!!! Would you have the part numbers/sizes to hand, perchance?


Scientists investigate that which already is; Engineers create that which has never been." - Albert Einstein

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This is great lads !!! This is what the forums all about. Any photos of these alternative ducting ideas? If it looks in keeping with the car I might go for it. Still would prefer a 85mm / 60mm conical tube though, about 500mm long. Tomorrow I'll take some pictures of my mates Turbo Esprit and his ducting that looks newer, and far stronger. My tired piece of kit looks original, and showing it's age at 26yrs old.

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Mine looks MUCH sturdier than that one of yours Jon, I have no idea of supplier, my original looks like yours but the replacement came as part of a lot of bits I bought of ebay... It is a lot better though


Chunky Lover

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is this one good enough by any chance ?

http://www.indertechnoflex.com/tubage/kopex.htm

..think, on the other hand -you can't go stronger than this :Phttp://www.panaflex-mv.com/car-e.pdf


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to name the things if I see them, that's what I call integrity..

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Can a Carbon one be done?

The engine wobbles an awful lot and the airbox is fixed and non wobbly..... I fear a lot of wobbling and breakage, if a flexi joint was used it would need to be big...

The movement really is quite a bit.....


Chunky Lover

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other example of stuff that could do the job:

http://www.indertechnoflex.com/gaine/sapa.htm


*********************************************************************

to name the things if I see them, that's what I call integrity..

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Gunter, I think anything metallic would fracture, I think we need to understand there is A LOT of movement of the enging when its running, not a little a Massive amount of constant vibration and wobbling, and thats with good 'new' mounts!


Chunky Lover

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Simon,

Believe you are correct in some fashion. I will have to video the movement of the whole system under operating conditions. With the correct flex joints I think a CF solution is possible. Also would decrease the air intake turbulence coming into the compressor. Gives me something to engineer whilst sitting in the airport. Will also calculate the amount of needed intake area in accordance with the original.

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Hi guys

This is not rocket science but you need to take in certain design perameters, flexable spiral wound ducting not to stretched will prevent colapse under suction. Tempreture range should be taken into account depending on how you use your motor. The max diameter of pipe close to the turbo the better, stops the scavaging and alows the turbo to work freely {MORE POWER} Dermot's artical covered this very well and unless you need to keep your car standard this should be considered. At this point it must be stated that Dermot's conversion looks easy but due to space restrictions is actually not a five minute job. There are however very simular and slightly smaller and easier to fit air filter systems than Dermot's, which will enhance your perfomance , after all the standard air filter was designed for a Triumph dolly / TR7 , and they ran on SU's and could not fight their way out of a paper bag !!!. Free air flow = power.

John asked for parts details;

Demon tweeks motorsport cat 2010 {red} Page 318 ........ Tel; 01978 664466

063BLK 1 mtr £16.93 63mm

089BLK 1 mtr £20.02 89mm

AH89/63 1 off £21.50

The pipe is available in temp range from -50 to + 200 *c or -80 to +310*c Also in insulated form , Prices vary.

Hope this is of help .

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My air intake hose had been rubbing against the boot wall so there was a hole in it.

As the metal spiral was okay (ie not snapped) I stripped it of all the old outer silver material and any loose bits, then carefully wrapped a self adhesive heat shield tape around the whole pipe.

I got it off a supplier on EBay.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/THERMAL-VELOCITY-REFLECTIVE-HEAT-SHIELD-TAPE-WRAP-/260611130154?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3cada2432a

The tape is 40mm wide x 10 metres long, basically fibreglass with bonded aluminised heatshield outer.

It looks good and is tough, with temp resistance far higher than the engine compartment can deliver.

It cost only about £15.

You can also buy the material in 1m x 1m pieces for about £44.

I used the same tape to make a heatshield for my new gearchange cables where they go over the gearbox nearest to the hot turbo.

I think the idea of a carbon fibre pipe sounds nice but is impractical due to the rigid brittleness of CF and the movement of the engine

Hope this helps

Alan

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That sounds like a nice cheap solution Alan, but have you considered internal breakdown of the adhesive when in contact with the oil mist from crank case breather, it may be the first time you are aware of this could be when bits vanish into your turbo spinning at 100,000 rpm. !!!!!! not good and a cheap d.i.y. fix costs big bucks. Sometimes it is best to use products designed by the motor industry for the job. Even if it costs a bit more.

Dave

Edited by CHANGES

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I have two vehicles that have intake tubes and boxes made with Carbon Fiber. They both utilise silicone couplers to allow for engine movement.

I have seen on several other exotics similar setups with the turbo intake. Appears to me that it is just a matter of sizing correctly and making a form. Technologies and materials have changed quite a bit. I look at how things are done on my other motorcars and look to see if they can be applied to the Esprit.

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