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Sheered off bolt - urgent help pls

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URGENT Help pls I am in trouble with the other half. Was trying to undo the top bolt on the Slave cylinder to remove the rusty supporting bracket for painting. However the top bolt was really seized solid. Got more CRC and worked it into the thread with every turn letting it seep in and managed to get it half way out. At this point I probably should have stopped but figured well its almost out im doing good. The bottom was easy. Anyway it sheered off :animier: and from what I can tell the thread is still keeping it all sealed and locked in place with no movement, I have done the bottom one up tight again. There are no nuts at the rear and when fully done up you can see the bolt coming through the hole on other side. SO what's the best way to remove the sheered off bolt, anyone experienced something similar? I have to get this out. Problem is I am also not sure whether its secure enough for me to engage the clutch in this state?

First pic you can just see the bolt in there.

sheerednutslavecylinder.jpg

sheeredoffboltslavecylinder.jpg

Edited by kyliesmith.com

350.gifNo.23

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hell. looks like you may have to drill it out and re-tap. our you may be able to use an extractor which will drill into it and loosen it, go slowley

all the best


It's Oogies turn to boogie

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Yeah I thought we may have to do that, I think also the slave cylinder hole side is not threaded? to hold in place so not a good idea depressing clutch. God I am sooo pised off right now!!!

Edited by kyliesmith.com

350.gifNo.23

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Hi Kylie,

how's it going? That's an easy fix. The slave cylinder is bolted to an elbow shaped housing. This is where you should have unbolted from bellhousing first. This is held on by 3 bolts with 13mm sockets. remove this and the whole assembly with slave cylinder will come off. you need to do this in order to make sure the pushrod locates on the clutch fork properly.

To disconnect the slave from the hose, use a temporary hose clamp so the fluid doesn't weap and create air bubbles in your system. The hose is held to slave by a simple circlip which is a bit like an R clip. this can sometimes by corroded and need penetrating oil.

Once you have take the whole assembly off you can take to a workbench and work on it properly. If you drench the seized bolt with penetrating oil and if there enough to grip something on the end, there may be a chance you can get it off.

If not, the other options are to weld a nut to the end of the snapped bolt or simply drill the bolt out. Start with a pilot hole first then gradually go to a bigger drill size.

It's funny, I was only replacing my slave cylinder the day before yesterday. I know what you mean about snapping a bolt. My top bolt felt like it was going to do the same! I sprayed the whole area with penetrating oil first and left for a while. I even bled it myself using an easy bleeding system. I didn't think worked but I managed to do it!

Hope this helps,

Dave Walters

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Dave thanks for coming to the rescue, I feel much releived with these options. I was looking at the parts manual and can see the three bolts. Im just having a coffee and hope to tackle this shortly this IS great news. :animier:

Apart from this I am really well and been driving the car most weekends and thoroughly enjoying it. I get my rear wing clear coated next week and more pics to post soon, so far it looks ace! As you can see I am on the slow process of trying make it tidy again so all the brackets, nuts and fittings are getting a work over. So much to do, but really enjoying it. Sometimes we have to go backwards a long way to go forwards a tiny way ay, nothing is ever easy :D

I want to also replace that T-section water connecting hose you can see in the pics that one end attaches to the header tank, does yr look like this? Cant beleive these fittings arent proper stainless or something that dosent rust. Theres a tiny water seep which appears to be coming from a weakend hose where the clamp has dug in. Water loss is next to none but still have to replace this rusty part and hose as I cant help but look at it all the time and keep checking the water levels.

Edited by kyliesmith.com

350.gifNo.23

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Should be able to unbolt the bottom and remove the slave cylinder(without taking it with the piece), then remove the piece from the bellhousing. I'd weld a nut onto the remaining threads, the heat will help break free the new welded bolt. I had to do this to one of the studs on the discharge of the turbo. Worked like a charm.

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Thanks Paul tried weilding a piece on but keep sheering off. But Great news its out and getting all cleaned up, ill get that bracket cleaned up if it kills me :animier: My sense of humour and Simons is MUCH better and now just having some lunch. We got it out on the work bench and drilled it with a 4mm, then 6, 7 and tapped with a 8mm. Put new bolts and washers on ready to go.

Sanded of the bracket and painted some rust converter ready for painting when dry.

Rustybracketgettingsanded.jpg

newboltsslavecylinder.jpg

Certainly did not think I would be looking at my clutch this weekend. Well least I now know its a proper AP Racing one with the stamp on the side. :D

APRacingEnglandstampedonclutch.jpg


350.gifNo.23

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I have discovered so many times that the "oh crap" moment is the worst. Then you start to figure it out.... cuss and swear a bit... and then you step back and look at what you have offered up blood and sweat to the car gods to make better. And 'whatever' is better. And there is not a greater feeling you can have!

Cameron


"If you feel that you are in total control of the car, well, your just not driving fast enough". Jimmy Clark

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Hi Kylie,

Iam glad you are OK and Simon too!

Greats news you got sorted. I had a similar experience the other day. I was getting a bit of clutch judder and always knew my slave cylinder needed replacing. Two years ago, the pushrod snapped because it's made of plastic. Anyway Pete at PNm quickly turned up an aluminium pushrod as a temporary measure but said that the culinder was scored and would only last a short while.

I thought there may be a possibility that clutch fluid could have been passing the pushrod which also doubles up as the piston and into the clutch area thus contaminating the clutch. Long shot I know but I thought that I would take the slave cylinder off with hose intact, have a quick look and put back. Ten minute job and no need to bleed... ...eh, no. As I pulled the slave cylinder out the pushrod slid forward which meant that it had sucked air into the system. I didn't realise this until I had put everything back and tried the clutch pedal.

Lucky I had a replacement slave cylinder, which I had been putting off only because I had to bleed the system. Turns out I would have to change it now. I managed to bleed it myself enough to drive and I took round to you know who to bleed to properly with two people.

I hadn't planned to replace my slave cylinder that day. Spent an hour with brake cleaner, cleaning the gearbox area and back of engine, seeing as I had the boot floor out.

Dave

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Cameron :D couldnt agree more - I call it character building !

Dave gosh what a pain getting that one right. I am pretty sure the push rod didnt move none the less we can bleed the system between us.

All back together and for now the most bling part in there till I eventually get to the rest :animier:

Thanks for all your help on this and am now out of the poo! See my other thread what else we have been up to today :)

Finishedbracketjune08.jpg

Edited by kyliesmith.com

350.gifNo.23

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"......I call it character building ! ....." :lol:

Simon must be an happy man. I wish i could also find an girl with such an attitude !

It's always interesting to see that those cars are all so similar in many trouble-points.. . The time for the next T


*********************************************************************

to name the things if I see them, that's what I call integrity..

*********************************************************************

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Good to hear it's all back together again.

Dave's comments were characteristically helpful.

Judicious application of heat is one approach. Differential expansion of an aluminium alloy housing over a steel bolt can provide just the required release to allow extraction. Of course, insulation of surrounding fittings has to be provided. Small blow-lamps with concentrated flames out of narrow nozzles help.

Anyway, I think I know how you felt; I've been there on several occasions as well.

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Thanks fellas, I have had the car only for 6 months from the UK so its a big road to getting the whole car glittering again. Ill get there. When ever theres an apportunity to remove the box and or replace clutch that whole rear will get stripped and re painted, for now just do round two of degreasing.. All the hose fasteners will get replaced real soon which will make a difference too.


350.gifNo.23

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first i thought Kylie will make it like a 'girly' car. Now i think it will be an concourse winner -with all that lovely work and ss-options


*********************************************************************

to name the things if I see them, that's what I call integrity..

*********************************************************************

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