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hi folks

i picked up the car on thursday. indicators didn't work, but i had seen them working on the day i test drove (and the hazards work) so i hope that's just a dodgy earth. the drive back was about 60-70 miles, mainly m25 and a few smaller roads, good steady temperature and oil pressure throughout.

i didn't get to do much on thursday, just explored stuff and cleaned it! i got oil and filter from opie, excellent service so i'll do that as planned on monday, but there are some new things for the list:

  1. clutch slipping. didn't get it to slip on the test drive, but definitely slipped on the drive home. car had been washed just before i picked it up, but i think it's a folorn hope that the washing did anything...
    so what is the clutch, and has anyone got a clutch alignment tool? looks like it wouldn't be too much to change myself?
  2. gear linkage needs improving; i read on a topic a while ago about a kit to refresh the linkage; anyone done this?

I'm sure there will be more!

cheers

simon

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All of the linkage kits I've seen have been for the Stephens cars. The existing linkage is a very simple arrangement and you can do a good refurb job yourself using standard washers, bushes etc.

I think SJ do a rose jointed upgrade to the cross gate linkage that attaches to the gearbox but from what I remember it was very expensive. The advantage though is that as it replaces the existing cross gate mechanism in one go, it's an easy quick fit.

The gear change is also extremely sensitive to correct adjustment, so it may simply be an adjustment issue. Can you tell us a little more of what you're experiencing with the gear change?

Regards

Mat

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Clutch slip should be resolved asap - dont want to damage your flywheel. as you suggest, gearbox removal not too bad in situ. It will not be anything to do with washing car (even if you washed the inside of the bellhousing!)

cheers Steve

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Linkage- ideal is rose joint solution, but if you want it back to original standard not better than standard , and at a lower cost, look to replace the rubber bushes that sit in the joints, the plastic sleeves that go inside them and re shim the pivit arm that attaches to the engine mount (UK drivers side). Also look at the linkage pivots under the gear stick.

Andy

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what i'm experiencing is a very wooley sort of shift experience; from reading posts here it seems that i should be able to get a quite positive shift. i also pop out of gear, mostly happens in reverse if i'm not holding the shifter in position. Is there a write up anywhere on the adjustment proceedure?

how do i access the linkages under the gearshift?

as for the clutch change, where's the best place for a replacement clutch plate/throwout bearing etc? i assume there's enough room to pull the box backwards off the engine? is that a two man job, or could i support the box still on the crossmember? i'll still need to get hold of an alignment tool too.

cheers

simon

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The box is F**** heavy so you definitely need various jacks to support the engine and box. I have done it single handed but 2 people will always make stuff easier. Yes there is just about room to move the box back - but you will still find it difficult to clear the rear boot floor. Any of the usual suspects for parts, (SJS,PNM or main dealers or indepedents) The parts are likely to be more expensive than you expect, especially the release bearing if its of the particular 'flat face' type. Alignment tools are generic, Halfords,Ebay will have them reasonably cheap.

cheers Steve

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pop out of gear, mostly happens in reverse if i'm not holding the shifter in position.

Is there a write up anywhere on the adjustment proceedure?

To adjust the to-aft movement you lengthen or shorten the tube between the gearbox arm and the pivot point on the engine mount, that should be done by removing it from the pivot end, and screwing the rod-end out or in as required to get neutral to be a vertically true gear shifter.

Undoing that rod-end may prove difficult, we couldn't move SimonF's the other day so I adjusted the length by slightly altering the curve of a couple of bends in the tube.

For the side movement, it's the cross-gate cable. It attaches to the gearbox arm by means of a pivot attached to the arm and the rod from that pivot to a cable adjust fixed into the gearbox casing near the engine.

You alter that length by undoing the rod from the pivot near the selector shaft, loosen the locking nut on the cable end at the other end of the rod, and screw it in or out to achieve a near vertical (possibly slightly off to the left(I think it's left)) on the side to side plane.

how do i access the linkages under the gearshift?

You remove the trim panel around the gear shift and undo a few screws holding in the cover plate, then it unbolts from the chassis.

Andy

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thanks andy, that's great info. i'll have a look at all that monday/tuesday next week.

cheers

simon

ps drove to work today and no slip at all, even under similar provocation! i'll keep an eye on that and wait til i've got another pair of hands...

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Hi Simon,

I have just got a refurbed clutch for mine from lotusbits, just the friction plate and spring part for less than 150 quid. They look like brand new items, the friction material is supposed to be better than original too. I know he also has a handful of brand new spring bits too, maybe worth getting a set even if they live on a shelf for a couple of months...

Ambrose

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i finally got some time today to do the oil change. went for a great drive to warm everything up, i really do love this little car and when i'm finished with it i'll love it even more.

so i got back home and started jacking it up. where do you guys place axle stands? i tried for the places on lew (demonstrated on a stevens though). i tried the lower control arms, and the car tended to slide along them in a fairly terrifying way. i tried jacking on the crossmember at the front (which holds the lower control arms, not the flimsy looking one supporting bits of the radiator assembly!) and it started to deform, so i stopped that. i ended up jacking on the official jacking points at the front and putting the stands under the lower control arms as close to the wheels as i could, but i wasn't that happy about it, with the lower control arms being on an angle to the top of the stand. the back was pretty easy, jacked on the gearbox end of the cradle and stands right next to the wheels.

while lying around under there i started to worry about the support. i've lied around under cars for years and never felt claustrophobic at all, but if this car slipped off and i was under it i reckon i'd be finished! most cars you might get hurt but not splatted, but as i laid under the back of the lotus i felt really uncomfortable, probably because i was already not that happy about how i'd supported the car.

anyway, after all that, the sump drain (copper nut?) was already round! i couldn't undo it. so again the oil change waits, i think i'll have to put it on a hoist somewhere to get enough access to get it undone.

Well i've got a few of the things on my list sorted; the indicators work, the brake warning works, the shitty old radio is out, and i've started asking for retrimming quotes.

I found a part number for the clutch friction plate (borg and beck hb9723?) but not pressure plate (rover 3500/sdi???) or throwout bearing (although i have the lotus part numbers from searching the forum, and i'll ask a lotus dealer tomorrow for prices)

the other odd thing is that the fans blow hot air out forward! i'm sure this can't be right? and i've only got two. there should be three fans, right? blow direction won't be hard to change, which i'll do today, and then maybe just go for another drive!

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