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rogerch

Looks serious

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OK, we're going well, on the top wishbones and swivel there are spacers, 2 flat ones on the leading wishbone between it and the swivel, on the pivot to chassis washers, but look like they are actually spacers, all this would effect the geometry, so question is are there instructions, illustrations all that kinda stuff on how to rebuild it all properly.

Roger


Life is like a sewer, what you get out of it, depends on what you put into it. (Tom Leahrer)

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As far as I can remember they simply co-affect the castor angle - I think the 2 go towards the front simply to gap the wishbone out so that it doesn't hit the chassis as the suspension goes up and down.

If you re-assemble the suspension and look exactly sideways on the top ball join is set back towards the rear of the car - this is the castor setting - if you move the suspenion up and down you'll see that the top wishbones can clash on the chassis and this is what the washers are for - as far as I can remember. The real aspect of the geo are the set of spacers between the wishbone and the top ball joint - pictures ahoy !!

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The spacers are used to achieve the correct caster for the wheel.

You should find spacerrs in pairs, one on the leading top wishbone and one of the same thickness on the trailing side of the top ball joint (or trailing wishbone and leading side of the ball joint if adjustment in that direction is required).

That way the wishbones are kept perpendicular to the top pivot bolt, and the bushes are not put under undue stress, and you get the maximum benefit of the spacers (if you only put one of the pivot bolt but not on the ball joint, you would only get half the change in caster you should expect).

The exact number you would need will be determined by the results of the geometry check for your car.

Andy

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Yes, if you are going to change these, you need to do the geometry setup as well. Either swap like for like with new versions, or leave well alone.

It's very, very easy to upset the handling by making small changes to the geometry of the car.

Get a proper allignment place to have a look at it. I bet you'll find your car is miles out anyway. 20 years of hitting bumps and kerbs will have seen to that.

I had mine done last year. I won't shock you with the price, but I was looking at the steep side of

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When I was dissmantling all this I took notes of the positions of spacers etc.

Now that I come to re-assemble, well first I take it the top pin is inserted via the provided hole in the foot well, in fact it cannot be withdrawn frontwards because of the radiator, guess which way round mine was! the spacers for the top wishbone were definatly wrong and fouled the chassis.

This along with the 3rd rate hydralic and brake work, well lets just say it's probably just as well I'm on the other side of the globe. I hate mechanics that take short cuts!

Roger :(


Life is like a sewer, what you get out of it, depends on what you put into it. (Tom Leahrer)

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Roger,

I did this Job a few weeks ago and had the benefit of a factory workshop manual. However I could not draw my top link bolts out through the car as the hole did not line up!! I had to take off the leading arm then pull them as far forward as possible to get the rear arm off, mind you putting the nut back on was a game and a half I can tell you. As for the shims I put them back as they were when I removed them, you have to be careful as there are different thicknesses. Results were well worth it, handles much tighter now. Are you using the Lotus Bushes or PUK? Also were you ball joints as knackered as mine?

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Actually the ball joints were in remarkably good shape but I fitted new ones anyway, I actually ordered everything from SJ a few months ago, including all the bushes which are Purple and some sort of polyurethane.

It's been much easier to put back together than it was to get apart!

Roger


Life is like a sewer, what you get out of it, depends on what you put into it. (Tom Leahrer)

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