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Nigel

Replacement engine not starting

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Have fitted replacement engine from Douglas Valley breakers and it will not start. The engine came complete with it's engine loom and sensors. I am getting fuel at the fuel rail but have not tested for a spark or taken the injector rail off to see if the injectors are firing. I am not wanting to spend too much time turning the engine over without oil pressure so I obtained a Freescan cable from the LEF shop and thought I would give it a go first.

When I ran Freescan initially it had a code 34 trouble code, MAP sensor voltage too low.

I have attached the CSV file with the engine not running and ignition on.

nigel1.csv

Any advice Freescan related or not appreciated.

Nigel

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Hi Nigel,

First of all let me say up front that I am no expert!

However, comparing your sensor readings to the typical values mentioned in my Freescan manual ....

Coolant temp sensor 2.51V @ 17.8 degC doesn't look right. The typical values from the manual are more like 1.73V @ 37degC and 3.24V @ 60degC. At a guess 2.51V would be 40-50 degC. Strange that it reports the correct temperature..

MAT sensor 3.94V @ 19.3degC looks OK. Typical values from manual are 4.2V @11degC and 3.5V @ 28degC.

Baro reading 0.84 looks about right.

MAP 0.86 looks about right too although I would expect it to be the same as Baro..

Does the sensor page in Freescan say the same thing?

Did your fault 34 clear?

However, whether any of the above prevent the engine from starting? Afraid I'm not sure. I would have thought that even 'limp home' mode with the CEL on would have let her run in some sort of manner.

I guess the basics of fuel, spark etc. are the more important checks initially.

Hopefully someone a bit more knowledgable will be along shortly!

Good luck,

K


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Thanks for that Keith, I tried for a spark and there was none.

I ran Freescan whilst I was turning the engine on the starter and I didn't appear to be getting anything in the crank sensor column. Turns out that the one of the spades had moved inside the connector for the cranks sensor and was not making contact.

Tried again and it started running on one cylinder (if I kept the throttle pressed). I have taken another Freescan log and attached.

The log is for this sequence of events: Started the engine, it stopped, tried again and kept it running for a minute or so with the throttle halfway open. Check engine light went out and almost simultaneously it started running on two cylinders, by this time I was feathering the throttle to keep it under 2000rpm. It would not idle .

ignition_on_then_engine_run.csv

Dunno what's happening now, I'm hoping it's something like sticking injectors. I've replaced the timing belt, but I'm pretty sure it's on the marks. I'm thinking it would run on four cylinders if it was one tooth out and not one.

What I did notice on the latest Freescan log was that in some instances the crank sensor is showing zero when the rpm is around 1500-2000.

Anyways I'm off out to the pub (wife is getting impatient).

As ever, any advice greatfully received.

Nigel

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Dermot, thanks for taking the time to look at my Freescan log.

How did you come to the conclusion that my oxygen sensor was faulty from the figures in the log file, what should it be reading?

I am just a bit surprised that the sensor is knackered as it was ok right up until the time my camshaft seized. I did buy a new oxygen sensor from my local Lotus dealer in September 2006 at a cost of

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The correct O2 sensor is heated, it should have 4 wires and is a Delphi part. Your freescan log should show the O2 readings rapidly jumping up and down like this, top graph is a good sensor, bottom one is yours.

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Like the graphs Bibs, just the kind of explanation I was looking for.

My sensor is a 4 wire Delphi ES10057, I'll order one from the dealers on Monday.

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Hello Nigel!

The O2 sensor has nothing to do with your starting problem. The O2 sensor becomes active after the engine has started and will then control fuel/air ratio.

During start-up the ECM uses only some primary sensor values like crank position, temperature and baro-pressure together with it's pre-programmed data tables to get the engine running.

Best Regards/

LasseW

Edited by Lasse

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What I did notice on the latest Freescan log was that in some instances the crank sensor is showing zero when the rpm is around 1500-2000.

Interesting... mine (and other's) cycles 0,1,2,1,0.... Have you confirmed that your plug connection has been fixed properly? Also, there is a magnet on the end of the sensor. Has it been damaged?

I recall the other end of the wiring loom goes to the coil pack. Check all the connections there, too.

Cheers.

Ian.

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Hello all,

Thanks for all your advice.

The engine is now running and it seems ok, no smoke and no knocking or rattling.

I am just over the moon, delighted. euphoric etc. Not driven the car for 3 months, it's like when I first bought the car.

Jim hit the nail on the head, I tried a new oxygen sensor and it was still not running right.

I went back to basics and thought I'll make sure I'm getting a spark at each cylinder(plug lead), I re-checked the static timing as I had put a new belt on and finally I changed the injector rail (including the regulator) which done the trick.

Cue, run round the garage with t shirt over head and I don't like football, that's how excited I was.

Every time I get into the car it seems to be running better as it was a bit ropey from cold when I started using it, dunno if it's just because it's not been run for a while or if it's the ECM 'self learning' , probably a bit of both.

Nigel

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Great to hear Nigel! Glad you found the problem! Hope mine goes as smoothly when the new engine build arrives!

Artie


89 White Esprit SE

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I re-checked the static timing as I had put a new belt on and finally I changed the injector rail (including the regulator) which done the trick.

I'm rather surprised that you had to change the whole fuel rail (after all, isn't it just a hollow pipe?). I've had a long-running very intermittent problem with my car pausing during acceleration (gets to a certain speed, then refuses to accelerate for 5 or more seconds). I bought a fuel regulator a few weeks ago, but wasn't very confident it would fix the problem, but now you've given me new hope :)

Thanks!

Cheers.

Ian.

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Ian

Just to clarify, I changed the injector rail including the injectors and regulator. I had my old engine to swap the parts so it was just as easy to change the injector rail complete.

I am now unsure as to the actual problem, could be an injector jammed open, or a faulty regulator.

Will be selling a barely used oxygen sensor soon if anyone is interested.

Nigel

Edited by Nigel

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Thanks, Nigel.

I've already replaced my injectors, but not the regulator, so there is still the chance that that is the cause (I'll be ordering an ECU if the regulator doesn't fix the problem... seems that I've changed everything else). Sorry I'm not in the market for an oxygen sensor... already replaced mine :)

Cheers.

Ian.

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