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JOHNDOYLE

1982 TURBO - DRY SUMP OIL SYSTEM FAILURE

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Post Re-spray rebuild after standing for two years.

So stupid and paying the price. I knew I should keep the motor going while it stood but got lazy and am paying the price big time.

I had leaks in a fuel pipe so had to replace all of the hoses.

I opened the carbs and cleaned all of the jets. The gasket kits from Suburban were wrong so I carefully put them back together with the old gaskets.

I eventually sorted out and bled the clutch. The helpful man at the clutch shop said that I didn't need a G clamp to hold the piston in.

After blowing the piston right past the cir-clip and putting a puddle of brake fluid on the lounge floor to join the petrol - i made a clamp and did it again.

I then checked the water header bottle and it looked bad so I took it to Joe's radiators in Retreat where they re-brazed the filler neck, the overflow pipe and the return pipe. They also brazed up three holes in the bottle and soaked it in acid to get rid of the rust and sold me a new cap.

On Friday, I took out the plugs and put a little oil in the cylinders and turned the engine over. A spark from the coil ignited the extra petrol still lying around on the engine and I had the whole engine on fire in the living room. Luckily I had put a CO2 extinguisher close by and it had just enough in it to put the fire out before it caused damage. I went and bought another extinguisher immediately.

Finally in between fighting with the dash and door wiring, I re-connected everything in the engine bay, put more petrol in, charged the battery and turned the engine over. after a long time it started an ran for about 20 seconds on about four cylinders then stopped.

When I got out, there was about four litres of fully synthetic engine oil on the floor - very depressing. I now only hope that it is just a hose or joint that has blown out because I am told that the pumps on the dry sump :) are not cheap or easy to get.

I now look forward to spending some time under the centre of the oiliest part of the engine, trying to fathom out what has burst.

Anyone got any guesses as to my possible blow out?

post-5309-1228125221.jpg

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Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.

No advice but just to say sorry about your troubles and try to keep smiling...its very hard sometimes.

Buddsy


 

"Belief is the enemy of knowing" - Crrow777

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Check that the oil filter cannister hasn't rusted through, Iv'e seen two filters do that lately. Check the oil feed pipe to the turbo and the return pipe from the turbo to the engine. If it's the return pipe they are available but cost

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I can't offer any advice on the dry sump, but I can comment.

You seem to have a VERY forgiving wife, make sure you go overboard in keeping her happy.

I trust you can get the car out once it's finished, unlike the guy who built a kit car then had to demolish part of the house to get it out.

Andy

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Living room! i thought i was bad building the gearbox on the kitchen table :)

It was in January this year when i had the scavenger pump oil pipe split (the one from the scavenger pump to the oil cooler) then, when i fixed that, the oil cooler itself split :)

these are the 2 things i would say that may have gone, both should be available locally to you.

You really need to get under to find the fault :wub:

Edited by Dodgy

Лотос - для тех которые знают разницу

ENIGMA for those who are paranoid or download one :)

 

 

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Surely FIVE fluids doing the floor soaking? Petrol, oil, coolant, hydraulic fluid and BEER!!!

Always wanted to combine living room and garage...demarcation line down the floor...being able to sit in comfort with a nicely iced one and just look at the vehicle collection..better than telly any day!! Have rebuilt an MG TC engine on the kitchen table, an AJS 7R in the lounge...welding...vast amounts of balsa dust from the model aeroplane days..the Lotus first engine rebuild was done partly in the kitchen and partly in the shed..had a marquee for a workshop for a while..why did some of my neighbours hate me?!! The others were quite enthusiastic.

As for the oil leak..probably nothing expensive, some flexy hose or other most likely. My respray involved the car sitting around for years, too!!


Scientists investigate that which already is; Engineers create that which has never been." - Albert Einstein

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hi again john

was that your car in ottery/wetton at that panelshop being re-sprayed.if so i was told about it by one or two suppliers(i have a detail center in retreat-vehicle cleanups etc.)

sorry to hear about your oil woes.think one of the oil pipes might not be correctly connected connectors.remember that the pressure is very high through the system and a hole viz double a pin size, would make the oil flow at a phenomenal rate.

it would be very unlikely that a pipe burst through corrosion as the oil keeps the pipe for years.

chat later


Technically sound ...Theoretically poked !

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Wow Richard yes it was my car in Ottery at Abe's Panel Shop.

If anyone needs a re-spray, I could not recommend more highly an establishment than this.

Abe is a true gentleman and did a better job than I could ever have expected.

I was in Retreat the other day having my water header tank rebrazed at Joe's Radiators - If I'd known, I'd have popped in to see you.

I got under my car today and, after cutting up most of my T-shirts, cleaned a lot of muck from under the car to try to locate the oil leak.

I then put a little more (cheap) oil in the tank and cranked the engine over in the hopes of getting back under and seeing the leak.

Before the leak could show itself, petrol started squirting from the exhaust flange going into the rear box.

This scared me because of a recent petrol fire in the bay so I decided that discretion was key and removed the rear box.

This rear box cost me

Edited by JOHNDOYLE

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Hey there--

I own a dry sump (1981 Essex) and there's a number of racing oil pumps to be had that can be substituted. They are fairly common as many racing engines are dry sumps--of course there may be some retrofitting involved--yet nothing too heady.

These fellows might help...also there was an Essex burned up in the breaking yard in England--the oil pump might be intact. Steve Trynor on the list might assist...

http://www.rrconnectingrods.com/oil.htm

--Tom

Edited by Tom Neel

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hi again john

replying to both mediums can get confusing.

i have a touchup/valet centre in retreat namely"auto detail centre'' off the main road tokai,where the spotty dog is and about 300m down the road.if you happen to come down that way,pop in,my esprit is always parked at the office.

i am glad they did a good job-wow the world is getting smaller by the day.

i have a good mate who has a 85 excel,there is brandt in paarl,you and me,roger in plett and i bet ther must be a handful more that one can try locate.the more difficult task is arranging everone together as these cars are not always on the road together.best that those that are mobile drive to those that are not and get them up and running.

which box do you mean was leaking petrol?oh by the way ,the carb overall set for dellort's are available at winsor garage in bellville.the only part you will re-use is the neoprene float gasket as the set is for the na version.

later

richard


Technically sound ...Theoretically poked !

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I have 3 of these pumps, all from working dry sump engines, one of which is an Essex. Make me a reasonable offer and if OK I will send one of them to you!

Joolz

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Thanks Joolz

I still haven't ascertained whether or not it is the oil pump which has failed yet.

I will certainly let you know if I find that this is the problem.

Best regards

John

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Hi john,can i ask you about what your mechanic was on about using a G clamp etc to bleed the clutch,what do you mean about holding the piston in before pushing it out,at the moment i have threads about clutch pushrod and slave cyl,etc as i,m seeking any advice cheers from a ex south african myself Lostu. B)

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Hi lostu

In order to bleed the clutch, you need to remove the slave cylinder so that you can face the bleed nipple upwards.

When you do this, there is no longer the rod and fork to stop the piston from moving outwards, only the circlip which is not strong enough.

The G-clamp with a drift of some sort to be narrow enough to fir into the cylinder and secured on the mounting flange stops the piston from pushing the circlip out and, (as in my case) shooting across the room and spraying the rear paint work with brake fluid.

I did not have a G-clamp so I drilled two holes through a thick piece of steel (An angle grinder disc release key) the same distance apart as the two mounting bolt holes.

I then used two pieces of threaded rod with nuts and washers on each end (a la puller) and used a socket from my spanner socket set in the cylinder.

It worked great.

This sounds complicated but really isn't.

Hope it is helpful

John

Had some success today.

I'm no electrician but could not get my fans to come on. Bought a new relay (not fused like the original) and the fan are working again.

I'm a bit worried about whether or not I should add a fuse, and if so, to the switched circuit or the power circuit.

Are there any experts who can advise on this?

I know that the original fuse worked hard as I had to replace it a few times but I could probably put that down to bad connections.

Those Lucas fans are hectic - same as Mini - I think I am going to change mine for the more efficient plastic ones.

Has anybody else done this and did it help?

Had the flange welded back onto my Stainless steel back exhaust box today - why do they sell you a stainless box (for

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Quite correct, the nipple does face upward but apparently is still too horizontal - I was advised to remove it rather to be certain. I suppose one could also park the car on a nose-up incline. Thanks for the observation.

On the issue of gearbox filling - perhaps I am being stupid. The bolt on top is nowhere near the rubber plugged access hole so without removing the boot panel, filling it into its level indicator plug hole seemed a better option. Am I wrong, should I rather be removing the panel and filling it from the top?

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That's bizarre..my gearbox filler lines up perfectly with the rubber bung..oh the joys and variables of Lotus ownership! Also I've never had problems bleeding the clutch slave cylinder, I found you could just open the bleed nipple and gravity did the rest...did have it dangling on the hose, though.


Scientists investigate that which already is; Engineers create that which has never been." - Albert Einstein

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Yes, I did make the assumption that your hole in the boot floor aligns with the filler plug! There's probably something to be said for mass production....

cheers Steve

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Probably due to the fact that I bought a second hand Citroen DS 20 box and fitted it when I previously had a catastrophic bearing failure and had one entire cluster drop down onto the other - no teeth left. Now also suffering from a misreading speedo but have found info on how to re-calibrate it. If that fails, I have been given the name of someone who does it.

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Yes, that would account for it....! An enterprising substitution.


Scientists investigate that which already is; Engineers create that which has never been." - Albert Einstein

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Re fitted the exhaust box today and got it started. Very gingerly checking water, temp, oil etc.http://www.lotusespritforum.com/forums/style_emoticons/default/sad.gif

Oil problem - hopefully - is due to stupidity of author. Dry sump is so hard to check level so I think I overfilled and my oil leak was as simple an issue as too much and pushing out of the remote tank filler cap. Don't know why I missed that.

Anyway, removed a lot of oil and with starting the engine, could now check the level.

Had connected the temperature gauge up with wires reversed - worked that out after pulling binnacle apart AGAIN.

Lots of smoke but put that down to the oil i had dropped into the cylinders to ease it in after so long.

Checked the clutch and gear linkage, turned on my fan over ride and FINALLY drove the car out of the living room. (Had previously smoked the family out)

Drove the car into the driveway and let it idle with the over ride off to see if the fans would come on. Lost some knuckles as I watched the temperature climb and chickened out and turned the fans on then the car off.

After quite a while the smoke had not abated - I think I have oil dropping onto the exhaust manifold - Problem 1.

Got out of the car to find a trail of water - one of the rubber pipes at the front of the engine below feeding to or from the radiator seems to have blown - problem 2.

While the engine was running, there was no oil pressure reading at all which also is a little worrying. Can anyone tell me where the gauge pipe connects to the oil system on a dry sump car to send the pressure reading? - problem 3.

Second worrying gauge issue was the boost gauge which also remained static. Not that I revved it too hard but I did rev it enough for the turbo to spin so it should have moved. - problem 4.

All in all, I am getting closer - actually drove it 40 metres. Let it cool and drove it back into the house.

Attachment shows it spreading its' wings.

I have plans to relocate the battery - I'm going to put it central rather than in that deep dark corner where it snags the drainer pipe and the tail light wires. I am also going to mount the after market battery cut-off switch on the right hand side panel in front of the oil tank.

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